While poking around the back roads of Cumberland Center, along Route 9, heading into North Yarmouth on Route 115, I saw a big sign announcing Stone’s Grove restaurant. Under the name was the proverbial "home cooking," a declaration so written in the wind that it doesn’t begin to describe this classic coffee shop, the real deal for home cooking.

As a child growing up in New York, I remember these corner coffee shops so well because they were everywhere -- in every upper-, middle- or lower-class neighborhood. It’s where you went for a cheeseburger deluxe, a grilled-cheese sandwich, or meatloaf with gravy and mashed potatoes. The meals were washed down with Coca Colas, egg creams or malteds served in tall, bulbous glasses. Desserts ran the gamut: willowy cubes of green or red Jell-o, nasty chocolate layer cake, butter pecan ice cream or that special treat, a hot fudge sundae.

The kitchens were not manned by aspiring chefs. Instead it was the kingdom of the short-order cook — those bulky, sweaty, hirsute men who plied the declaration of their art with lightning speed.

Stone’s is just such the place. The ambiance (décor would be too strong a word) is classic Formica counter and stools, complemented by rows of leatherette booths, all of which is starkly lighted by the gray glare of overhead fluorescents.

The first thing to get used to about Stones is its hours of operation. From Tuesday to Friday, the restaurant is open from 6 am to 1:30 pm. I’ve gotten there several minutes after the closing hour, only to find a locked door, even though the restaurant was still full with diners. On Saturday, it closes at 11 am. I wonder why they even bother to open at all, but apparently there’s a steady breakfast following.

On Sunday, the unofficial brunch menu is over by noon. The first time I went for brunch, I sampled the pumpkin pancakes: enormous orange-ochre colored rounds that looked heavy but were as light as clouds. The waiter asked if I wanted hash browns with the pancakes. I thought this was overkill but, as it turned out, they were worth it — beautifully crispy and delicious.

The restaurant serves dinner twice a month, on each second and fourth Saturday. The last call is at 7 pm.

Obviously, Stone’s is a delightfully idiosyncratic establishment. It's family run, with a loyal following who go day after day for home-style coffee shop fare in its purest form.

I can’t say I’ve sampled the entire menu, but I’ve been there enough times to have my favorites.

The chicken salad is delicious and wholesome, so good in fact it’s worth mentioning for its unique preparation. I’ve tried to figure how it’s made, and I’m guessing that it’s a finely ground mixture of chicken, onions, celery and spices. It’s not chunky, but more like a spread. It’s generally served on honey whole wheat or their grilled bread, which is wonderful. I’ll often have it as their special of the day: a cup of soup and half a sandwich.

Soups are great here -- rich, hearty and homespun. The fish chowder has big chunks of haddock, potatoes and onions in a delicious milk/cream-based broth. The onion soup is a dark, earthy-brown broth heaped with onions and a generous melted Swiss topping.

The American chop suey seems to be really a popular special. One time when I was there, it seemed like every diner in the restaurant had ordered it. It’s basically curly noodles and meat sauce, served with their grilled garlic bread.

Another time I had the super crusty chicken-fried steak served with gravy and perfect cubes of home fries accompanied by Stone’s homemade biscuits that the cook puts on the grill to toast.

My favorite special is the stuffed meat loaf. Big, thick slices of the loaf are stuffed with mushrooms; the loaf itself has wonderful flavor. It’s generally served with mashed potatoes and a flaky grilled biscuit.

When I arrived there the other day, I had just missed getting the last order of the roast pork special, the aroma of which seemed to fill the entire room. I managed to order a side of the cabbage casserole that came with it. This was a really hearty braise of slow-cooked cabbage that was sweet and aromatic.

Desserts are what you’d expect here: classic American farmhouse confections. I’ve had the pecan pie, the cherry berry cobbler, the Boston cream pie, the pumpkin cake with cream cheese frosting — all with that inimitable homespun taste and texture. For dieters, there’s always angel food cake or Jell-O.

One of these days I’ll make it out there for dinner after I lose a few pounds from one too many enjoyable lunches at Stone’s.

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