February 11, 2005
Dinner at Cafe Uffa
I will sing the praises of Café Uffa as long as Chef James Tranchemontagne is at the helm. Here is a young man so dedicated and relentlessly talented that he deserves much more attention than he gets. Right now he’s on a mission to perfect his art, so that each day is a new culinary challenge.
Tranchemontagne could easily belong to Portland’s elite group of chefs, such as it is. But he prefers to leave self-proclamation behind for now and do what he loves to do best— to cook with passion.
It’s not that he doesn’t already draw from a sizable pool of followers. Often when I’m there I notice how most everyone in the room is bent on a single purpose: to delectate over Tranchemontagnes triumphant rustic French cooking.
As soon as I walk in I’m always struck by the easy, spare space that defines this place, like a cozy welcome mat signaling calm and comfort. Many restaurants in town strive for a desultory nonchalance, which in my book often comes off as sloppy and unkempt. Here the natural minimalist lines of this room evoke a sense of drama. The soaring ceiling heights, the wainscoted walls, the old wide-board floors and the giant window overlooking Longfellow Square are like billowy clouds effecting glamour and well-being.
The mood reflects the cooking style of the restaurant perfectly. The staff is there to cajole and serve, creating ambiance and mood.
.
The food from Uffa’s kitchen is not a scrap heap of culinary clichés. Braised veal shanks, vol au vent with mushrooms and cheese, a petite filet of beef, grilled quail with sausage bread stuffing, baked sole, sautéed scallops in beurre blanc— hearty fare, like you’d find at a country inn in the French countryside, cuisine grand mere.
When I was there the other night I wanted to start off lightly because my main course was a formidable one.
I began with a Nicoise salad. This was not the usual tangle of tuna over greens. Rather it was a cool and crisp collection of egg, olives, shaved Parmesan, tomato concasse and lightly cured fresh anchovies, which added a tremendous and pleasurable bite. With it came perfectly blanched haricot verts. It was dressed with confident vinaigrette. I combed the plate clean while I anticipated my main course.
I had chosen the grilled quail, which I plucked from the list of first courses, to have as an entrée. The entrée size was two quail instead of one. It was served over his aromatic sausage bread stuffing complemented by braised greens and buttermilk mashed potatoes. The game came cloaked in a heady roasted-garlic reduction, a soothing caress for such meltingly tender flesh. Often quail is rendered stringy and tough by careless chefs.
I particularly liked the stuffing paired with the greens, hardly an obscure equivocation. Here the marvelously concise flavors created an ample equation of taste and style.
My dinner companion started with the soup du jour, bisque of Maine shrimp with potato in a full-bodied broth, substantial without being sticky. It was a heart-warming and satisfying cure for a chilly night. The main course was baked sole with seafood stuffing, immediately pronounced “delicious.” It looked it to me, and my companion guarded it religiously against my wandering, lusting fork so that I couldn’t get near it.
If you’re a chocolate lover you’re in luck here because most of the desserts are chocolate.
I chose a simple sweet of house-made chocolate and vanilla ice creams served with a splendid warm chocolate sauce. My friend had the chocolate torte which rested atop a peach filling finished with a creamy trestle of vanilla ice cream.
I hadn’t planned on going to Café Uffa that night. In fact I thought we’d head out to a simple dinner at the Dogfish Café. But as I was driving home around dusk that evening, passing by Uffa’s brightly shining countenance on the square, I decided then and there where dinner would take place.
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i could not agree more. one of the best restuarants in portland. i have been there 3 times in the past year and each has been a great meal. I had a lobster risotto that was the best i have had. keep up the good wor cafe uffa!
Posted by
nickFebruary 11, 2005 01:44 PM
Hi, Nick--Glad you're hitting all the hotspots. I'm off to Rachel's tonight. Have you tried the new place in Yarmouth, Seagrass? I'm going there next.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 11, 2005 01:54 PM
The best chef's in Portland?
While the intro/blurb to this blog might suggest that I was comparing the general abilities of Portland's finest culinary masters, I was far from attempting such an undertaking.
We all know who they, from such places as Fore Street, Back Bay Grill, Hugo's, Bandol,
Five Fifty Five.... I merely suggested that Cafe Uffa's Tranchemontagne can certainly knock on the door to such a locally exclusive assemblage.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 11, 2005 06:05 PM
I havent finished your piece on Uffa, But I am bursting with excitement that this small town, with some amazing restaurants will finally have an "Objective" critic. For years I have been reading glowing "4 Star" reviews of the nacho and hotdog bar at 7-11 and the "beauty of the presentation" of the cheese bread at Amato's. You are a welcome addition!! Keep it real.
Posted by
shawnFebruary 11, 2005 07:37 PM
Shawn--
Thanks. That was a very funny note. I might just stop in to 7-11 to rate those hotdogs.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 12, 2005 07:37 AM
The first sentance is such an overstatment of loyalty that it draws suspicion.
I will not question the motives of Mr Golden further but others may.
Posted by
Phil IntheblanksFebruary 12, 2005 07:03 PM
Hey, fillintheblanks, come again???
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 12, 2005 09:47 PM
I think Phil is suggesting that John is either in a long-term relationship with Chef James T., or that he has a majority ownership interest in Cafe Uffa! Either way, it's fine with me! Keep up the reviews!
Posted by
JillFebruary 14, 2005 01:26 AM
Hey, guys and dolls, these last few comments truly don't deserve a response. Though, thanks, Jill, for your edifying comments. And if some of you think otherwise, then don't bother going to Cafe Uffa. Your loss.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 14, 2005 07:23 AM
The cleverly named Phil may have been commenting tongue in cheek, but overall he has a point. Look through Golden Boy's reviews and you'll see repeated statements along the lines of "I knew I was going to hate it before I got there" or "Before we got there I knew I was going to love blah blah blah." This is hardly the "objective critic" Shawn claims above that we're blessed with. What's even weirder is that these prejudices are often about inconsequential matters--like the size of the plates some food was served on at One Fifty Ate--that a real writer would realize are personal quirks that should be omitted from a widely read review.
Posted by
Brett WeirFebruary 14, 2005 08:18 AM
Hi, Bret--It's been a long time since you've surfaced with your pearly words of wisdom. Where've you been? Out strutting with the fishmongers?
One of the reasons why I state my preconceived notions about a place is to be up front and pleased if I'm wrong or satisfied that I was right.
I see it, I say it. Though, as we all know, knowledge is in the eye of the beholder.
Sometimes candor is hard to take.
I mentioned the size of the plates at 158 because I feel it's important that food be served properly, whether at a greasy spoon or in a gilded dining room.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 14, 2005 09:47 AM
Golden Boy!
I appreciate your candor. I also try to remind myself that this is a blog -- written by one person.
I'm sure I don't always agree with you. Life would be so dull otherwise.
So, ah, Happy Valentine's Day everyone!
Do you feel the love?
~Jes
Posted by MJH
February 14, 2005 01:28 PM
You, too, Jes.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 14, 2005 02:26 PM
Mr. Weir since you are so unhappy with this blog simply stop reading. Quite frankly your sophomoric comments are boring and take up too much space.
Posted by
nickFebruary 14, 2005 08:47 PM
Thanks, Nick, I agree. If Mr. Weir hates the blog and its reviews so much, he should stop reading, and most importantly for the rest of us, stop participating. As for his frequent disparaging comments about the content of the reviews ... here's an idea: Don't eat at those places, Mr. Weir. Mr. Golden isn't telling you what to, he's offering his opinions.
Posted by
SarahFebruary 15, 2005 12:31 AM
Kids, kids, kids. The opposite of love isn't hate, it's indifference. Does the comment feature on this blog really exist only to tell Golden Boy "Great job!!!" or "You are so right!!!!"? Nick must have inside info on the size of MaineToday.com's server space, given his claim that my posts "take up too much space."
Sarah, you should follow your own advice--if you don't like my posts, don't read them! What a fascinating world it would be if we all just stuck to our little self-congratulatory cocoons.
Posted by
Brett WeirFebruary 15, 2005 03:30 PM
Brett, you're right, post away. I hope it's fascinating in your self-congratulatory cocoon.
Posted by
SarahFebruary 17, 2005 12:34 AM
Glad to know you all have something to say, good, bad or irreverent.
Posted by
John GoldenFebruary 17, 2005 07:37 AM
Based on your reiew, I chose Uffa as my "birthday dinner" restaurant. It was incredible! The ambiance was just as you described - better even..the chicken entree is something we still exclaim about. The cheese appetizer was the most exciting thing I have ever eaten. Sitting at a window table overlooking Longfellow Square, I was reminded of the romance that New York city restaurants have... it had that and more...
Thanks!
Posted by
Gwen HoldenApril 23, 2005 09:22 PM
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