One man’s fancy might be another man’s yawn. That‘s pretty much how I felt when I left the table at Ribollita. It’s a perfectly pleasant place, to which most Portlanders can attest. The food is perfectly nice, too. In perspective it’s wholesome and good.

I hadn’t been there in a long time. I first went to Ribollita many years ago, before I lived here. I liked it for its tasty, zesty fare and marveled at how so tiny a dining venue managed to operate in such tight quarters. Ultimately I tire of diminutive restaurants. I’m not a phobic per se, but sometimes nooks and crannies make me edgy. I ache to break free.

I went the other night because I was invited. The eight of us had a large round table that took up most of the front room.

The occasion didn’t allow me to concentrate on the food as I would at other times. Indeed I was not there for that purpose.

When I looked at the menu the choices seemed so familiar, as though the list hadn’t changed in years. The chicken, the fish, the pasta dishes….Even the onion- tart appetizer, which I remember as being wonderful, fell off the page.

I’ve had all this before, I thought, here and elsewhere, like the confluence of a catered buffet table.

I had been to Cinque Terre the night before and had a marvelous meal. The feast that I had at Rachel’s a few weeks ago is still a fine memory. Somehow, Ribollita didn’t seem in the same league. Maybe they don’t want to be.

It is, perhaps, what it purports to be: a stylish Tuscan-style trattoria with a very pleasant menu and reasonable prices.

Oh, don’t get me wrong. I think it’s a charming place. And I will go again when I’m in the mood for a tasty meal and a cozy night out.

I started off with a panzanella salad. The flavors were good, though I think it was too “wet.” In this salad cubes of bread should not be soft and mushy but still offer some crunch.

I had trouble deciding on my main course. Finally I chose the osso buco. I probably should have had one of the pasta dishes, made from their house-made dough.

The rendition of osso buco that I prepare at home is from the Union Square Café Cookbook. It’s wonderful. The shanks are braised in a rich veal stock and finished off with a citrus-based gremolata. This is an exciting osso buco.

The version here, though admirable, lacked style. Missing was the intense flavor of meat braised in a rich base. It was too dark and muddled. If a restaurant is going to serve this dish, it better be good. It’s like going to a pizza parlor and having a bad slice. Why bother? If I can make it better at home, why should I deign to have a lesser version out?

I concluded the meal with a flan. It was very sweet, perfect for those with an insatiable sweet tooth. I prefer a more subtle flan, light in texture, the kind that wiggles as it’s carried to the table.

Granted, my experience is based on one isolated impression and Ribollita probably deserve more acclaim. Far be it from me to cast uncalled for aspersions. On the other hand, first impressions count, too.

Try the Union Square Cafe's version.

Orange-Fennel Osso Buco

The secret to this dish is to braise the meat in a fine homemade veal stock (recipe follows). It’s not difficult to make but time consuming. It’s worth the effort.

Serves 4
4 osso buco (approximately l pound each)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Flour for dredging
3 tablespoons olive oil
½ cup sherry vinegar
3 cups veal stock
3 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed to stalk
3 cups peeled slices carrots
1 cup fresh orange juice
1 orange, peeled and cut into segments

1.Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

2.Season the osso buco with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper and dredge them in flour.

3.Heat the olive oil in a 12-inch skillet or Dutch oven {recommended} over medium-high heat. Brown the osso buco on all sides, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer the osso buco to a platter and reserve.

4.Pour all the fat from the pan. Add the vinegar and, with a wooden spoon, scrape up any browned bits adhering to the pan. Cook over high heat until the vinegar is reduced by half. Add the veal stock to the pan and bring to a simmer. Season with the remaining salt and pepper.

5.Return the osso buco to the pan. Cover and braise in the oven for 1 hour.

6.Split the fennel in half lengthwise, leaving the core intact. Slice each half lengthwise in ½-inch pieces.

7.Uncover the osso buco and add the fennel, carrots and orange juice. Raise the oven temperature to 400 degrees and cook uncovered an additional 45 to 50 minutes, basting occasionally. The meat should be fork-tender and the vegetables completely cooked.

8.Remove the pan from the oven. Transfer the osso buco to a serving platter and keep warm. Skim the fat from the cooking liquid with a bulb baster or ladle and cook over high heat to thicken slightly, 4 to 5 minutes. Stir in the orange segments, ladle the sauce and vegetables over the meat and serve.

Union Square Café Veal Stock

Yields 12 cups

Since this stock requires a minimum of 12 hours simmering, start it early in the day. If time or circumstance doesn’t allow, you can simmer it for less time though it won’t be as concentrated. It can be left out overnight at room temperature, cooled and covered and boiled the next day. Cool completely before refrigerating.

7 pounds veal bones, preferably knuckle and shank
5 quarts water
2 cups scrubbed and coarsely chopped carrots
3 cups quartered medium onions with skins
2 cups coarsely chopped celery
2 cups sliced leeks
1 head garlic, halves
2 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons tomato paste
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon thyme
1 bay leaf
6 parsley sprigs

1.Preheat the oven to 450 degrees.

2.Rinse the veal bones well in cold water. Place the bones in an 8-quart stockpot and cover with the water. Bring to a boil over medium heat. With a small ladle, skim the surface to remove the foam and impurities. Reduce the heat to low and simmer very slowly, uncovered.

3.Place the vegetables in a roasting pan and toss with the oil and the tomato paste to coat. Roast 45 minutes to 1 hour, until the vegetables are well browned.

4.Transfer the roasted vegetables to the stock pot and add the peppercorns, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley. Pour 1 cup of water into the roasting pan and place it on the stove over high heat. Deglaze the pan by stirring to dissolve and incorporate any browned bits into the water. Transfer the water to the stock. Cover over low heat at a barely perceptible simmer, uncovered, for 12 to 16 hours. Skim occasionally to remove any fat or foam that rises to the surface.

5.Strain the stock into a clean pot or metal bowl and chill over ice. Remove any fat that rises to the top. Refrigerate 1 to 2 days, or freeze for later use. Remove the congealed fat.

Note: Any unused stock can be stored in plastic containers and kept frozen for several months. Store in 1- or 2-cup containers.

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