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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
March 01, 2005
Recipe Watch

When I got my latest issue of Saveur Magazine, one of my favorite food publications, I came across an article on bacon. It really didn’t say much more than what most of us already know. But what caught my attention were the two recipes that accompanied the feature.

The two recipes given were for a Stilton and Bacon Cheesecake and something called Billionaire’s Bacon. This one is actually a hors d’oeuvre, variations of which I’ve had before. The version printed in the magazine is to coat strips of bacon with brown sugar on both sides. Lay it on a baking sheet and bake in a 425 degree oven, turning once until brown and lacquered, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a lightly oiled sheet pan and let cool. Break slices into thirds. It’s a very easy dish and absolutely delicious. I haven’t made the magazine’s rendition yet but will try it later this week.

The one I did make was the Stilton and Bacon Cheesecakes that I served as a first course for dinner last night. It posed one problem, however. The recipe calls for six 2- by-2- inch ring molds, sometimes referred to as a charlotte mold, without a bottom. I assumed that Lereux Kitchenware on Commercial Street would carry it. They didn’t. Nor did Williams-Sonoma.

I improvised by using ramekins. It worked well enough but I didn’t get the high cylindrical shape I wanted.

Whenever you need specialty cookware, Bridge Kitchenware in New York has everything you could possibly want. They have an excellent online catalogue. You can order these molds online. The product number is AERS-R-22.

In any case it’s a novel and delicious first course and very easy to make. A few notes about the recipe are in order, however. It calls for either digestive biscuits or graham crackers for the bottom crust. Digestive biscuits are a British sweet, which is generally a simple, thin cracker like butter cookie.

I’ve seen these in supermarkets but couldn’t find any in our local stores. Sometimes you see it in the specialty section under the name of Nice Biscuits. A good American variety substitute is Social Tea Biscuits made by Nabisco and available at Hannaford’s.

The advantage over graham crackers is that they’re less cloying without that molasses taste.


Here is the recipe, which I have adapted.

Stilton and Bacon Cheesecakes

The recipe is from Chef Chris Hope of the George Hotel in Wallingford, England.

For the crusts. Melt 4 tablespoons butter and mix with l cup finely crushed digestive biscuits or Social Tea Biscuits. Do not use a food processor to crush the biscuits. Instead, put them in a heavy plastic storage bag and close securely. With a rolling pin, tap the cookies until roughly cracked. Then with a rolling motion using the rolling pin, crush the cookies until finely crumbled.

Place 6 buttered ring molds on a cookie sheet and divide the biscuit mixture amongst them. Press down on the crumbs firmly so that it forms an even layer.

Chill in the refrigerator for 1 hour.

Meanwhile make the filling. Dice six strips of good quality bacon and cook the bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp, about 10 minutes. Drain the bacon on paper towels and set aside.

In a mixing bowl combine 8 ounces softened cream cheese with 4 ounces softened Stilton, mixing well with a fork or wooden spoon. (Do not substitute any other kind of blue-vein cheese.) Add the bacon. Stir well. Optionally you can add ½ cup roughly chopped walnuts.

Once the molds have chilled, fill each with the cheese mixture, smoothing the tops with a flat spatula or spoon. Chill, well covered, for at least 3 hours or overnight.

To serve, run a small sharp knife around the inside of the molds, lifting up the molds and sliding the cakes onto plates garnished with mixed lettuces and pea shoots if available (Royal River Foods carries pea shoots).

Top each cake attractively with chutney: spoon it over the mold and allow it to drip down the sides slightly. An assertive California Chardonnay would go well with the dish or good red Bordeaux, such as Les Ormes de Pez, 2001, available in wine shops in Portland.


Posted by John Golden at 04:56 PM

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Comments

John, I think you may well find Digestive Biscuit substitutes in Hannafords. Look in the regular cookie section where the English biscuits are and you should find a red box of mini biscuits - Carr's wholewheat crackers. These are what we eat when we can't get the real thing. They are not as sweet as digestives and a little coarser in texture. I can get digestives in my daughter's supermarket in MA. I will pick some up for you on my next trip before the end of March.
I will try this next time I get some good stilton. I have some muffin rings which won't be tall enough but probably will work.

Posted by Celia
March 1, 2005 07:13 PM


Thanks for the tip. I think the sweeter variety works better as a crust. And Social Teas are good too.

The muffin rings sound fine. But as I said Bridge Kitchenware as them at about $4 each. It's one of those cooking items that you need every so often.

Posted by John Golden
March 1, 2005 07:19 PM

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