March 08, 2005
Not Wild for Wild Oats
I’ve decided that I really don’t like Wild Oats even though I shop there fairly frequently. It’s not from some haunting memory of being felled by an organic orange or slipping on a naturally fermented wet spot. No, it's a visceral reaction. Call it blasé contempt-- a scant skepticism that prevents me from doing my daily stretch down perfect aisles.
Strange those other places of similar ideologies don’t give me the heebie-jeebies. At least when I enter the straight-faced chambers of the Whole Grocer next door, they have things I want--like happy looking vegetables, all home grown and appetizing, not wrapped up in airtight plastic bags.
I guess I’m just not a Wild Oats kind of guy. I’m not impressed by picture perfect carrots. I prefer that earthy just-dug look.
Neither am I impressed by the sign that says “organic” above the potato bins. I want my spuds to have a local provenance more than a generic moniker saying they’ve been sowed by organic standards of nature somewhere in a place I’ve never been to.
My standards are probably toughest concerning chickens. Don’t try to palm off those natural birds as being something special. Who’s kidding whom?
Chickens that get my attention are those that have seen the sun sometime in their short lives as they’ve poked around the yard nibbling on nature’s own.
Free range? You bet. What’s a natural chicken anyway? I shudder to think what an unnatural one looks like.
Natural and organic have become catchall phrases anyway. They quickly lose meaning when bandied about too freely amongst the vagaries of mass market vicissitudes that I find a wee bit fulsome.
That’s what gets me, I suppose, about places like Wild Oats and other national chains, selling the dividends of nature as though they were manna from heaven.
The other day I went to Wild Oats to buy 4 chicken breasts. I walked up to the meat counter. I asked for 4 chicken breasts on the bone. The butcher looked at me blankly. The meat case was filled with boneless breasts.
Piled high, there must have been at least one hundred so-called natural, naked breasts as perfect looking as a lineup of beauty queens.
The bone-in variety was prepackaged across the aisle. I picked up a package. It said “natural.” I still don’t know what that means. Is is something like free-range fish or natural ice cubes?
According to government standards natural basically means that the product has been produced without chemicals, antibiotics and other dastardly practices. Organic goes a few steps further and proffers that nothing used in the production of the particular food will harm the environment, the earth, wind or air.
I would be less critical of Wild Oats if in their mass market branding they would include more local products instead of anonymous facsimiles.
What Maine surely has in plentiful supply is an agrarian marketplace thriving with organic farmers and producers.
Of course I can buy one of those “natural” chickens and get by. But I’d rather have something like the Maine-ly Poultry brand because I feel an affinity with the product. I see them roaming around the yard as I drive up Route 1 past Warren. That makes a difference to me. Ultimately they have great flavor and texture; they taste the way nature intended them to be.
On the other hand, you have to give credit to stores like Wild Oats. The quality is decent. The store is very well run. And it’s an easy and attractive place to shop. That’s why I go there. I don’t go there thinking I’ve landed on planet perfect.
I usually go for convenience sake. If I need a few items, I’ll shop there instead of what I mistakenly perceive as the hassle of shopping Hannaford’s around the corner.
It’s the anticipation of pulling into a giant supermarket parking lot, fending my way around wayward shopping carts, flustered mommies, screaming kiddies and the general population at large that sends me elsewhere.
Lately, though, the lot at Wild Oats can have scary moments too as swarms of Volvos and Subaru’s vie for coveted parking spots.
When all is said and done, Hannaford’s is a very good store. The quality is pretty much on a par with Wild Oats. And you’re not walloped over the head with an incessant marketing message.
But if I want to be beguiled by every imaginable soy product, Wild Oats can do that. Other departments are just as inclusive. The cheese manager always looks intent and serious and is ever helpful. All the help, in fact, is helpful in that “have-a-great-day” sing-song refrain.
I’ve never tried their natural cleaning products. I've had their soups occasionally. They're a bit heavy handed but work as a quick hit.
The sandwiches look big and fluffy. But I hate the jive about the bread being made from natural ingredients. Standard, Rosemont, Sophia or 158 have breads that deliver on that score.
The cakes and pastries are certainly an eyeful, though even unadulterated they’re still just as fattening.
And oh those vegetables!
Did I mention the time I zipped in to buy 4 small organic zucchini for $9.11?
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John, I say in all sincerity that I am delighted to (finally) find myself in head-shaking agreement with you. Wild Oats is overrated and overpriced. For the basic building blocks of healthful, homey cooking, Hannaford has almost everything you need, including locally grown produce during that mythical time of year when there's not a daily blizzard. I would rather put up with harried moms distractedly pushing carts in Hannaford than the relentlessly cheery faux bohemianism of the typical Wild Oats "associate."
Posted by
Brett WeirMarch 9, 2005 07:33 AM
If you're so adamant about buying local produce why don't you patronize a locally owned store? Instead of shopping at Wild Oats go across the parking lot and shop at the Whole Grocer. Your story is nice and all, and I agree with what you wrote, but if you're still giving a big chain store your money then you're part of the problem.
Posted by emily
March 9, 2005 08:08 AM
Gotta stick up for the people who work at Wild Oats: They have bills to pay and rent to make, and they have a job to do. And most of them seem to do it well and are friendly when they help you. I feel safe in saying that it is not a bad thing to have people at a shop who will cheerily help you--even if it is part of an act (which almost all service is anyway).
Posted by
AaronMarch 9, 2005 11:12 AM
Our household shopping in Portland includes a wide range of stores, the two staples in winter being Wild Oats and the Whole Grocer. The reason is because no one store has it all.
If you want to buy organic produce, everything at Hannford is wrapped in plastic and styrofoam -- why?!?! -- and the selection is meager at best. But if you want to buy beer or wine, you'd be saving money to go to a bar rather than pick it up at Wild Oats.
I have to agree that I like the rougher, dirtier, less perfect atmosphere you find in co-ops and many Asian markets. Even the Whole Grocer seems a bit too clean and well-lit for me, sometimes.
But what kills me about some of the people who shop at Wild Oats is that they are presumably shopping there because buying organic supports organic farming and therefore in some way makes the world a better place. Then they get in their cars and drive 50 feet (OR LESS!) to the Whole Grocer. Is this a cruel joke?
That to me is evidence of the Wild Oats problem. For many shoppers, fashion takes precedence.
What I do like about the store is that it brought some competition for the Whole Grocer without killing it. In fact, I bet most of those cross-lot drivers would rarely enter the WG without the presence of WO.
Great topic, Golden Boy. It's a constant source of dialogue in our house!
(BTB, we've found that Pat's serves up a great chicken -- natural or free range.)
~Jes
Posted by MJH
March 9, 2005 11:22 AM
Thanks, Emily, for your comments. But if you read carefully what I wrote, I am in fact a devotee of Whole Grocer. In fact, I'm on my way there now, snow-covered streets and all, to pick up a bottle of their raw heavy cream to use in a pudding for tonight's dinner.
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 9, 2005 12:12 PM
Brett--I can't believe we've finally found common ground on which to agree.
I just find Wild Oats as too much of a plasticized version of so-called health foods.
I knew you'd agree
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 9, 2005 12:14 PM
MJH--I think Whole Grocer could spruce up its act, though, to take advantage of the influx of shoppers spending next door. They've got the right idea but are still too mired in a laid-back business venture. But they are the real thing and should give us what Wild Oats doesn't.
I love food co-ops too, like the onein Belfast.
I'm interested to know though that Pat's has free-range chickens. Have never seen one there.
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 9, 2005 12:17 PM
Great topic John. I find the same problems you've got with WO run rampant at most "natrual" foods supermarkets - Wild Oats, Bread & Circus, etc. Some days I think I'd love to be able to afford to do my daily shopping there, but the reality is that the same cup of Stonyfield Farms organic yogurt is 17 cents cheaper around the corner at Hannaford. Just not practical.
I don't find that the Hannaford Produce is "wrapped in plastic and styrofoam," and so far, it's been the ONLY place where I have found dandilion greens consistantly stocked. I like buying local goods there, and for special items I find that the "Natural Foods" section generally has what I'm looking for.
As for the WG. They have what might be the best vitamin selection around, but there is something about the place that makes me shy away from shopping there more often. Perhaps it is that my mind sometimes reads "a little bit shabby" as "bad or dirty," but the place definitly needs just a little bit of sprucing up. (Of course, in my opinion only.)
Now, if only Portland had a Trader Joe's.....I'd be a seriously happy shopper.
Posted by
JMarch 9, 2005 12:36 PM
Sitting here in FL ckg the PPH online when I saw your by-line. What a find! I have now started to go back and read all your previous postings. I only wish I had been at your "Sunday Supper". I'm swooning over the description, I think I can smell the chicken! Of course you realize that after reading these articles, no one will invite you to their home for a meal ever again. Congratulations on this new twist in your writing career. It's local, it's fresh, it's delicious....AND calorie free!
Posted by
susan o'connellMarch 9, 2005 07:28 PM
Both wild oats and the whole grocer are simply put nothing special. you can get the same selection at hannafords. they are a waste of your time. why does it seem everything portland does is always "small time" they never go the whole way. bread and circus and trader joes are the real deal. they are expensive but aren't all of these types of stores..But they have every thing. Top quality organic products, a terrific deli, and even great prepared foods etc.. A place like this would do great in portland. why doesn't one ever come???? As for the aforementioned posers... stay away and save your money or take an occasional trip to mass. and go to bread or traders they are what a store about organic products should be.
Posted by
nickMarch 10, 2005 07:11 AM
Susan, come back soon for Sunday supper!!!!
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 10, 2005 08:06 AM
I agree, Nick. Have not been to either of those places. As soon as I95 is free of snow it might be worth the trip. Then again we can all wait for the Farmer's Markets to return.
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 10, 2005 08:08 AM
I have to disagree about Trader Joe's. I used to drive by one every day on my way to and from work. It's a whole different genre than Bread and Circus or Wild Oats. B&C and WO are faux-organic stores where the marketing mission is to make people feel good about paying higher prices. Trader Joe's is its own beast: Interesting foods at -- mostly -- bargain pricing. It's like B&C/WO meets Sam's Club. Trader Joe's would never be my place to do one-stop grocery shopping (like, say, the Hannford's in Back Cove) but it's an interesting place to stop by every few weeks simply to see what they have. I agree that it would be great if Portland had a Trader Joe's, but it wouldn't stop me from shopping at Hannaford's/Shaw's for most of my basics and then specialty stores -- fish stores, farm stands, etc. -- when I want something special.
Posted by
Scott HerseyMarch 10, 2005 08:28 AM
I"ve led a sheltered life. I'm in the dark about all of them. What about Whole Foods Market? I hear that's pretty good.
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 10, 2005 12:25 PM
I am also not thrilled with Wild Oats and since the opening of EMS it's not nearly as convenient to run in and out of anymore either.
However, I would like to say that I do appreciate the salad bar. Its fresh, well maintained and a good value. I also think the meat department is pretty decent and I do like Coleman meat which they sell.
As for the chickens, I too was looking for a Maine-ly Poultry chicken the other day. Portland Green Grocer used to sell them. *sigh* I see them occasionally at Forbes, but where ARE we suppose to get them now?
Pasture-raised is the term I'm using for what I'm looking for. Here's an interesting article: http://homepage.mac.com/pandre/strib-articles/strib-7-10.htm
Kind of interesting what Bell and Evans says.
Posted by
ameliaMarch 10, 2005 04:26 PM
Amelia--Maine-ly Maine chickens are available at the Rosemont Market and Bakery on Brighton Ave., several blocks past Stevens. It's a new store, very similar to the old Portland Greegrocer since its owners used to be involved in the Greegrocer.
Also, the chickens are available at the Whole Grocer, nextdoor to Wild Oats. They're delivered there Tues and Fridays.
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 11, 2005 06:38 AM
I had the good fortune to spend five years on the far side of Puerto Rico a few years back. I quickly fell in love with the mottled orange and brown oranges; the yellow and brown bananas, and the soft spotted mangos and avacados. It was a real taste bud opener for this New England boy to experince real produce. What's with the U.S. need to spray paint and homogonize our food? I'll take the local produce anytime.
Posted by
Charlie DavisMarch 11, 2005 11:24 AM
"you can get the same selection at hannafords"
I have to disagree, Nick. I have made a second career of comparing Hannford, WO, WG, GG and the PPM in a vain attempt to shorten our weekly shopping spree.
Hannaford has a decent selection of organic, natural, free range, but mostly what they have is one or two (rarely a few) of a smattering of things. Their organic produce selection is paltry, and their bulk items are more expensive and less comprehensive than WG and WO.
I could not do all of my weekly shopping at Hannaford, primarily because I buy organic produce. That's the one thing I'm a stickler about. The rest of it is about taste, quality and supporting the small, local producers. WG is my primary source for produce because since WO moved in, it's gotten MUCH better.
This is not a knock of Hannford either. I appreciate having such a well planned and easy to negotiate general store, and there's no way we could cut it out of our weekly ritual if only for litter, beer and their fabulous price on Kate's Homemade Butter. BTB, even WO had Oakhurst milk for 30¢ less per gallon last week.
I love the Belfast co-op, and I miss my hometown Sevananda. And after talking about all this I can't wait for the Farmers Market to start again.
~Jes
Posted by MJH
March 11, 2005 03:01 PM
That's the crux. When the farmer's markets open everywhere, well, don't get me started. I go from here to Timbucktu for the good stuff. The best is the Camden FM
Posted by
John GoldenMarch 11, 2005 08:39 PM
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