It was one of the best grilled pork chops I’ve had in a long time. Poor cooking methods can easily destroy a chop. Overcooked, it can be tough, stringy and lack flavor.

The one I had last night was wonderful: tender, juicy, succulent, beautifully grilled, served with garlic mashed potatoes and apple slaw, a mélange of lightly sautéed apples, onions and other aromatics. My dinner companion had the India Street Pasta Company ravioli, with a roasted garlic marinara sauce. It was well prepared.

Where is this place? What is it? Who knows about it?

At 7:45 last night both the bar and the dining room were empty except for us. You’ve probably passed by it many times unaware that it even exists.

It’s called The Great American Grill, located off the lobby of the Commercial Street Hilton Garden Inn. That’s right, that unfortunate structure that many Portlanders deride, occupying one of the most prominent and expensive pieces of real estate in the city.

When the hotel first opened they decided against having a restaurant because so many good ones are right nearby. Still, a major hotel without a dining venue is curious indeed. Even the Portland Harbor Hotel has one, serving three fairly good meals a day in an attractive setting.

The dinner chef at the Great American Grill is a fellow named Steve Quattrucci who had a stint at Back Bay Grill and the Ritz in Boston before joining the hotel.

The menu is simple and approachable. Soups and salads. Starters such as chicken tenders and quesadilla. Entrées like filet steak, grilled salmon, and pasta as well as hamburgers and lobster salad.

We shared the chicken tenders for a starter. These were great big spears of chicken that were encased in a crispy and spicy batter. Though not my favorite choice of appetizer, we devoured them quickly and happily.

What I can’t understand is why the hotel has done nothing to publicize their restaurant.

The hotel is a business success, though Portlanders don’t seem to hold it in high esteem. I think many people were put off by the architecture, which seems incongruous to the surrounding cityscape.

I actually like the design. At least it makes an architectural statement, which most of the newer structures and those in the planning stage have not. I think innovative design came to a halt in Portland sometime around 1920. Ever since then we’ve been a breeding ground for mediocre, lackluster development.

My biggest complaint about this piece of real estate has more to do with the lack of integration between the hotel and its sister project, the adjoining office tower. The two fit together, cheek to jowl, in total discord. Our city council and planning board should have held greater sway in the integration of these two buildings, given their prominent location.

Yet once you enter the hotel, the lobby presents a cool, sleek, even elegant interior that is carried through to the bar and the restaurant.

In fact, the bar is, in my opinion, one of the most attractive spaces in Portland, compared to many of our dark, dank cubicles that pose as public watering holes.

We went there last night to explore. I read about the restaurant, mentioned in passing, in an article in one of those free community newspapers.

We sat down at the bar, ordered a drink and chatted up the bartender, Ariel, a gregarious 20-something woman who would be a great stand-up comic.

The plan was that if the restaurant looked like a bust we’d move down the street to the Portland Sea Grill, which barely qualifies as consolation territory. OF course we could have taken our chances and barged in on Fore Street. But I didn’t feel like dealing with the vagaries of their walk-in policy.

In any case, Ariel convinced us to stay for dinner and to have it with her right at the bar, where she took wonderful care of us.

It’s the first time I’ve spent any time at the hotel. I have recommended it to friends to stay there because the rooms are big and well furnished. The harbor front rooms have great views.

The bar turns out to be the core of the hotel. The staff seems to drop in, go behind the bar and fix themselves a soda. It thought that was a bit odd. Guests come in, too, and make themselves at home for a quick drink.

One guest walked in, ordered a beer, asked for the remote control switch for the TV (a well designed flat-screen TV set in a beautiful wall casing) and changed the station from the news to a basketball game. After a few minutes he left, leaving us with the dull thud of dribbling balls and the cacophonous chatter of spectators. We changed it back to the news.

Another guest came in, carrying a store-bought frozen food box containing Salisbury steak, ordered a drink to take up to his room and left. It seemed like such a grim prospect, the disconsolate traveler; we were tempted to invite him to join us.

Then someone else arrived to pick up her take out food for which she had called in ahead. She was working late across the street and was having dinner at her desk.

I wasn’t sure if I was in a community center or hotel bar. But then again isn’t that what a hotel is for--especially one in a prime downtown location to serve the community as well as the visitor?

I’m not suggesting that Fore Street should worry about its closest neighbor or that other Portland restaurants should take notice.

Instead, the hotel could serve the community by promoting its dining space more. At lunchtime especially there are few options in town for sit-down dining, something that could appeal greatly to area office personnel. As it is, the restaurant is not open for lunch but only breakfast and dinner.

What is has going for it is that the setting is very attractive—a comfortable bar with beautiful chairs and tables, and a very stylish looking dining room which would look a lot better with people in it. Parking is not a hassle either because the hotel’s valet service tends to it.

Will I go back again? I might, if it begins to get buzz and a following. It has potential. For now, I’ll definitely stop in for a drink on my way to someplace else.

Our meal was very pleasant, moderately priced (the most expensive entrée is the steak at $17.95) in a setting that’s a lot more attractive than many of our more established eateries.

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