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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
March 21, 2005
Forbes Bites the Dust

You won’t see sawdust underfoot anymore in the Portland Public Market. That is to say, the Forbes Meat Company has left. And they seemed to have literally hit the road. I was told that even their operations in Portsmouth are closed up too.

The Public Market is a tough place to do business apparently. Other than to have strippers in the aisles or gambling in the back, there’s not enough incentive to draw the crowds necessary to support all the vendors.

While the market seems to have gained greater popularity over the last few years, it’s still a struggle for many to succeed.

Places like Scales, Maverick’s, the Portland Spice Company, and other food vendors are doing well while the other merchants suffer.

I’ve said before that its location is a problem. Even though it’s relatively easy to park across the street in the garage, it’s in a grungy part of town; and after all is said and done, parking in a garage is a chore. It’s far simpler to go into a lot like Hannford’s or Wild Oats or anywhere else where access is easy and the scene a bit more palatable.

Maybe the market should be turned into a condo complex. Just think--wouldn't they be great artists lofts? I'd much prefer to go to the market along the Eastern Waterfront or the outer banks of Bayside and feel like I'm in an exciting up and coming frontier. Trying to make a sow's ear into a silk purse never works.

Seriously, though, the market seems busier than ever. On a weekday or a weekend, there’s a hustle and bustle that’s reassuring.

Forbes was not my favorite place, and I can’t fault their efforts. They had cuts of meat that were hard to find anywhere else. When you managed to catch them fresh, the meats were high quality and good. I stopped going there, however, on a regular basis because their meats were not fresh and often spoiled.

Their other fault was not to have a full-time butcher. A butcher who you can trust is almost as comforting as the family doctor who makes house calls.

Alas, butcher shops are an old-fashioned concept, if not a dying breed because supermarket meat departments have everything. At Hannaford’s you have several butchers there at all times. They may not offer fancy trimming or exotic cuts of meat and poultry but they have pretty much what most people need.

One of these days I’ll meet a supermarket butcher who knows how to butterfly a chicken. Each time I’ve asked for that to be done (it’s a great cut for grilling) it is literally butchered.

Other than in the North End in Boston or in Manhattan, traditional butcher shops are few and far between. I had high hopes for Pat’s Meat Market when I moved here. When Pat is there he augurs confidence. But those preschoolers who he has behind the butcher blocks in his absence leave much to be desired. I once went there to buy a whole tenderloin and wound up showing the kidky butcher how it should be trimmed.

Places like Loebel’s in Manhattan (outrageously expensive) or Ottomanelli’s on Bleaker Street (beautifully old world) in the Village still exist as true, bona fide butchers. I’ve not been to the well known shops in Boston, but I may start traveling there with a cooler in the car to stock up.

Certainly the Greater Portland area should be able to support a full-time butcher who could attract a loyal—and profitable—following. We have fishmongers in plentiful supply. Why wouldn’t a fine meat emporium do just as well?

Many readers have suggested that I try Smaha’s Legion Square Market in South Portland. I’ve been there once or twice and it seems like one of those wholesome shops that are worth investigating. There’s nothing fancy there but your basic cuts of meat. Perhaps they can fill the void and enhance their selection to make it a worthwhile destination.

When the weather is better, I’ll often go to Curtis Custom Meats in Warren. It’s a big trip indeed, about 80 miles each way. But I do it when I go to the Mid-Coast for other reasons.

Surely there must be some enterprising entrepreneur in our midst who might open up a gleaming white-tiled-walled shop, with great big meat cases, sawdust on the floor, and a kindly face behind the counter ready to take your order.

Posted by John Golden at 04:01 PM

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Comments

Your right we need a Butcher
Was there a small market in the west end of Portland?
I think they moved from east end near Fore Street. They were a father son team I think.
They had a pretty good meat dept. with butcher on duty.

Posted by BERNIE
March 21, 2005 04:36 PM

FRESH APPROACH ON BRACKETT ST HAS EXCELLENT CUTS OF MEAT. I'M NOT SURE HOW YOU DEFINE BUTCHER, BUT THE BEARDED GUY IS WELL VERSED IN ALL THINGS FLESH AND HAS BUTTERFLY'D A CHICKEN BREAST FOR ME. GREAT SELECTION TOO AND A CONSISTENT CLIENTELE THAT ENSURES FRESHNESS. FYI.

Posted by marcel
March 22, 2005 01:24 PM

Try Dave's Meat Market on 302 in Windham.

Posted by Sindy
March 22, 2005 01:35 PM

I've wondered about Dave's Meat Market in Windham. Is it the same one that handles the butchering for all of the Cumberland farms? I will definitely check it out. I'll also go to Fresh Approach. I've been in there but haven't focused on their meat department. It looks like a nice old-fashioned store.

I was in Rosemont Market today and they had a big sign in front of the store, saying something like Try Farmer Bob's Natural Beef....Actually it's the wonderful meats from Curtis Custom Meats in Windham. Another place is French and Braun in Camden. Of course these are a bit far to go to.

Posted by John Golden
March 22, 2005 10:00 PM

Considering that I'm not much of a meat-eater (fish is about the extent of it) I'm going to excuse myself from the butcher debate.

I am concerned about the Market though. Even though I never bought meat at Forbes (probably the only vendor in the history of the Market I never purchased from), I'm sad to see that any vendor has had to close up shop.

I'm dissapointed that vendors are still leaving the market, because to me it seems that in general the market is busier now than it's ever been. The market is usually busiest in the summer (of course) and around the Holidays, but even on a weekday in March it's been pretty busy lately. Whether or not each vendor is doing enough business to be profitable I don't know, certainly some vendors are busier than others.

John you mention that the location of the market is not ideal, and that it's in a "grungy" part of town, but one thing that I think was so great about Elizabeth Noyce's gift to the City is that this building was erected not on Commercial Street or Congress Street, but in a part of the city a little off the beaten path, where people live and work. And what's more, to help an area become less "grungy," you need to invest in business and residences in that area.

As far as the idea of converting it into housing, I see the lofts thing with the high ceilings, but I think we've got to go the distance with this market.

Posted by Jill
March 23, 2005 03:18 AM

Of course I was being just a bit off the cuff about the market being turned into condos, a craze that seems to be sweeping the city.

When I mention that the market is in the wrong part of town I'm saying that the market could have done better elsewhere. That Noyce's gift to the city was a wonderful thing, both for the neighborhood and the people of Portland goes without saying.

Posted by John Golden
March 23, 2005 06:45 AM

Check out Pat's Meat Market on Stephens Ave. A good neighborhood meat market--nothing fancy, but pretty good quality.

Posted by Leslie
March 23, 2005 07:23 AM

I agree with Jill's comments regarding the Public Market's location,
and general situation, and also share her concerns about the overall
survival of the enterprise. It seems to me that the real problem lies
not (as John suggests) in the location, but rather in the general
management and ambience of the place. The perception when one enters
the place seems to be one of disinterest, if not ennui; I've
frequented markets the world over in both professional and consumer
capacities and this is one of the least lively and least attractive
that I have come across. In order to coax more customers into the
market, I believe that a new approach is needed. While it may be
located in a sketchy area, a revival of the neighborhood could be
spurred by a successful and more enticing approach to the problem of
managing and promoting the Portland Public Market.
Unlike Jill, I am a carnivore, and while I also found Forbes to be
uneven with regard to quality and service, at least they gave it a
shot. I spoke with Ben Forbes several times while ordering
hard-to-find items like wild boar (farm raised in TX), and he was
unfailingly helpful, but when he was not present, I experienced dicey
service of same sort which John laments of at Pat's.

An aside: Bleecker Street bisects Jones Street just west of 7th ave,
and on the northwest corner of Jones Street you will find what is
arguably the best butcher shop in the country: The Florence Meat
Market. Once owned by Tony Pelligrino, a great butcher from Sicily, it
was sold several years ago to one of the employees on the condition
that all the staff remain. When in NYC, I suggest that all meat lovers
make a pilgrimage...cheaper than Lobel's and Ottomanelli, too.
I lived for many years in Italy, where every town, no matter how
small, has a butcher of the type that John describes in his ideal
Portland butcher shop fantasy. Of all the butchers in Italy, and
perhaps in the world, none is more inspirational, unusual, or
passionate than my old friend, Dario Cecchini. Dario, who studied
(paradoxically) to be a veterinarian, was called back to panzano to
take over the family business after the untimely death of his father,
and a legend was born. Called "il poeta-macellaio di panzano", (the
poet-butcher of panzano the town in chianti where he plies his trade)
where you are as likely to hear strains of John Coltrane or Verdi
wafting down the street as you are to be treated to Dario reciting
Dante's commedia divina or l'inferno from memory as he stuffs
sausages or cuts enormous chianina steaks before a delighted, multi-national crowd (feasting on
the free food, cheese and wine provided by Dario) that would be the envy of any one of
our purveyors in the Public Market....maybe we can entice Dario to
open a branch of antica macelleria cecchini in Portland...?

Posted by magnaservei
March 23, 2005 03:35 PM

Talk about a name from the past!!! I haven't thought about the Florence Meat Market in many, many years. When I lived in NY, and lived downtown, I went there as well as to Ottomanelli's. Wouldn't it be swell if we had something like that.

I do think that the market is busier than ever. But something is missing that's not making it click 100 percent. The most common complaint that I hear from vendors is that the rents are too high. We still need tohave more vendors there who sell items we can't get anywhere else. In Forbe's case I don't think it was a very well run concern. Had there been the same butcher on duty at all times he might have built up a following.

ONe of the newest vendors, Foley's, has high hopes of doing well. And I hope they do. Their cakes are terrific, though I think that they should start another line of more "homey" sorts of baked goods, because many of their cakes are really special occasion items.

What Portland doesn't have is a take-out shop of prepared foods that people can take to have at home. This is tricky business but something like Aurora's might do well there and be an incentive for new shoppers. It's a difficult business and one has to wonder if the market is being run as well as it could be.

Posted by John Golden
March 23, 2005 07:14 PM

Lobel's is quite outstanding. My mother likes to send me care packages from them, and they really have the finest meats I've ever had the occasion to eat, cooked at home or at a restaurant. I guess they might be outrageously expensive, but I'd have to vote for "worth every penny."

To be honest, because of mom's generosity, I rarely buy fine cuts of meat in Portland. I get my chicken and lean pork, and I leave the fancy stuff to Lobel's.

Posted by Leigh
March 23, 2005 08:32 PM

Well, Leigh, you've got the best of both world's. Can we get on your mother's mailing list?

Posted by John Golden
March 24, 2005 06:36 AM

John -- Wouldn't it be nice if she were an all-purpose meat provider? :) When my parents were first married, they were working in the theatre, which is not the most stable of professions. My grandmother was convinced they didn't have enough money to eat and so sent them steaks from her local butcher in St. Louis (note: they were in Chicago at the time, not a city known for its lack of groceries). I guess my mom just likes to continue the tradition, and I'm not going to complain! :) Besides, the last time I made filets from Lobel's, I wound up engaged -- I'd say they're worth it. :)

Posted by
March 24, 2005 11:46 PM

Leigh

Out of curiosity I went to Lobel's website to see what they offer.

The selection is truly astounding, not so much for what they have but what they charge! A 7 to 9 pound leg of lamb, for instance, was nearly $300. A 16 oz porterhouse steak was $100. No wonder you got engaged after serving those filets!!!!!

Posted by John Golden
March 26, 2005 11:33 AM

Intriguing -- the package my mom tends to send me is one of their pre-selected assortments and I know it doesn't cost that much--more than Hannaford or even fine local butchers, yes, but my parents aren't insane! :) Then again, she's sending us 4- or 6-oz filets and 12-oz. veal chops at at time -- my fiance and I are small folks, and I don't think we could get through a 7 pound leg of lamb if you paid us. Good to know, though; I sure won't be ordering for myself anytime soon!

Posted by Leigh
March 26, 2005 06:56 PM

check out the website. what the heck, mom is just being generous.

Posted by John Golden
March 26, 2005 10:02 PM

Fun stuff! I checked the mixed packages like the ones she sends, and I have to say that getting 4 meals out of $100-$150 of prime beef doesn't seem so bad. (She's only ever sent us the likes of the smallest packages I found on there; all the others seem to have things in 4s and ours come with 2s.) Plus I know they let her customize it. It may be a splurge, but from what I've tasted, it's worth every penny. Treat yourself sometime to The Madison Avenue package and see what you think! :)

Posted by Leigh
March 27, 2005 10:27 AM

LOOKING FOR A GOOD MEAT SHOP WHO WOULD LIKE TO CARRY BELL EVANS ALL NATURAL AIR CHILLED CHICKEN

Posted by BOB POMPEO
May 6, 2005 08:43 AM

I worked there as a dishwasher one time in a different life I'm the reason why good ole Gilly boy is gone. NAH NAH NAH NAH NAH FSU MA FA!!!!!!!!!!!!

Posted by DOOMS DAY
September 8, 2006 03:32 AM

Butchers are a different cut so to speak I am an old fashioned butcher but the days are going quick as the supermarkets of the world have taken over. People do not realize that the old time butcher can not cut and maintain meat at the same price as the supermarkets because on a small scale the costs are higher and you also have less desirable cuts of meat to sell because you have a whole carcass to use up. However hopefully people like you will keep us in business so the art of butchering doesn't die. Tami

Posted by Tami
May 15, 2007 06:55 AM

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