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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
May 10, 2005
Lobster and Other Good Eats

One of these days, sooner than later, it will be warm and stay that way for a while. The first thing that comes to mind is lobster, lobster pounds and where the best can be had. My favorites include Five Islands Lobster, at the end of the Georgetown peninsula, Miller’s Lobster in Spruce Head, the Cod End Cookhouse in Tenant’s Harbor, the Dip Net in Port Clyde and Young’s Lobster Pound on Route 1 in East Belfast.

The other day, on a chilly, big-cloud afternoon, I went to Two Lights Lobster for, I thought, a quick bite to eat. I figured it would be quiet there at two in the afternoon on a brisk spring afternoon. Wrong. To my surprise there was a line out the door at least 10 strong, laying claim perhaps that Two Lights is more tourist attraction than food destination.

While Two Lights is full of views it’s not my favorite lobster eatery. The food is fine and decent but not memorable. I go there for convenience when I’m in the area.

Five Islands is probably my favorite of all the spots for seafood in the rough. The views are sensational and the food is very well prepared. I generally order the grilled haddock sandwich that is served with a fried crab cake on top and a dollop of cilantro sauce. The very good onion rings are coated in a rich batter; the lobsters are very well prepared as are all the shellfish dishes. I’ll often go there in the summer combined with a day trip to Reid State Park beach followed by a late lunch at Five Islands. Lately I’ve been tempted to go across the harbor to McMahon Island, which is home to a private summer colony, to see one of the houses that is for sale for the first time in years.

If you haven’t been to Miller’s, a long-standing family run place in Spruce Head, it’s a must to try and a bit off the beaten track. It too has a spectacular setting, looking out across Wheeler Bay. It’s off of Route 73 that connects Tenant’s Harbor to Rockland; signs are everywhere showing you where to go. They don’t serve anything fried but have terrific cole slaw and other sides to go along with the lobster, which is fresh caught right there and about as good as you can get.

Cod End in Tenant’s Harbor is another great spot located on the harbor. Their bread coating on the fried clams and the onion rings is terrific, and everything else there, from chowders to lobsters, is great tasting, including very fresh rolls of scallops, shrimp, mussels, swordfish and well made cole slaw and biscuits.

The Dip Net, located on the waterside behind the Port Clyde General Store, is not only a place for outdoor lobster eats but a very good summer restaurant as well. While they have all the usual items like clam rolls, onion rings and lobster, the entrees are imaginatively prepared.

Its setting on Port Clyde harbor is beautiful. It's a very popular place for summer folk who descend on the wharf at lunctime and dinner. About 85 miles from Portland, it's a doable day trip for an enjoyable meal. It's also next door to the Monhegan ferry.

For lobsters and clams Young’s in Belfast is still one of the best. It’s over the bridge from downtown Belfast and it has some of the best lobster I’ve had. Up the road a bit is the pie lady (at least that’s what I call her) who has a stand on Route 1. Her pies and jams are terrific; in season her blackberry pie is really worth getting.

I suppose my least favorite lobster spot is Harraseeket Lunch in South Freeport. The wait is interminable because the place is so haphazardly run. I’ve watched the owner on numerous occasions standing around gabbing with friends, ignoring the goings on of people waiting and waiting to get served.

Most of these places don’t open until Memorial Day. But Five Islands is open now on weekends, and Harraseeket and Two LIghts have been open daily since April. Call ahead to check on the hours.

Miller’s Lobster, Spruce Head, 594-7406
Five Islands Lobster, Five Islands, 371-2990
Cod’s End Cookhouse, Tenant’s Harbor, 372-6782
The Dip Net, Port Clyde, 372-6307
Young’s Lobster Pound, East Belfast, 338-1160
Two Lights Lobster Shack, Cape Elizabeth, 799-1677
Harraseeket Lunch, South Freeport, 865-3535

Posted by John Golden at 08:50 AM

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Comments

Thanks, John, for a very useful article. I'm a Maine native living in NYC, and have been taking my wife to Young's every summer for the past decade. She's a steamer fan, I'm a lobster fiend. But I have to say I've never been crazy about the attitude dished out along with the food at Young's, and our last dining experience there (steamers too sandy to eat, expensive lobster boiled to rubber) was bad enough that we vowed to find a new spot. This list is just what I needed!

Posted by Robert
May 10, 2005 04:19 PM

Sorry to hear that about Young's. I'd head straight for Miller's lobster or Five Islands, always reliable and no attitude whatsoever. You must h ave gotten some grumpy Mainer or hit it in the height of summer tourists

Posted by John Golden
May 10, 2005 05:09 PM

Thurston's in Bernard, way, way down on the southwest tip of Mount Desert Island, on the far side of Bass Harbor. It's out on a dock, where they bring them in to be chosen and boiled up in front of you. Great lobster chowder, too. The sweetest, freshest lobsters ever.

Posted by Scott Hersey
May 10, 2005 05:31 PM

You might want to try Shaw's Lobster Wharf in New Harbor. My family has been eating at Shaw's for many years. We often enjoy going there as a nice finish to an afternoon at nearby Pemaquid Beach.

Posted by Deb Dean
May 17, 2005 01:45 PM

They must have seen you coming. If it werent for the tourist half the state would be out of a job. Real Mainers know how to cook there own lobster. Come again and have a nice day

Posted by native
May 18, 2005 10:30 AM

I've been to Shaw's. I liked it.

Posted by John Golden
May 18, 2005 04:36 PM

Cod End is the best...The atmosphere is incredible. My family and I have spent many a Friday nights there when there was acoustical musicians playing guitars and banjos as we ate the freshest, sweetest soft shell lobsters ever. The brownies and blueberry pie are amazing too.

Posted by Bug eater
July 6, 2007 09:23 PM

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