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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
June 02, 2005
In Anticipation of Arrows

In all the years that I’ve been visiting and now living in Maine I’ve yet to go to our state’s most revered restaurant, Arrows, in Ogunquit. I tried once last year with a reservation made weeks in advance. As it turned I cancelled because plans had changed.

What immediately turned me off to the restaurant was their requirement of requesting a credit card deposit to secure a table. Obviously this practice is their insurance against no-shows.

Still, in this day and age, to those of us who are well used to paying $150 for two in well regarded eateries, this practice seems anachronistic at best. It’s almost as if establishments such as Arrows don’t expect you to know which fork to use, and anticipate their dining public to harbor the bad manners not to cancel a reservation if necessary.

Still I‘ve wanted to know what all the fuss is about.

Ultimately I’m a sucker for a good meal no matter the effort or the expense. And I am going there tonight.

I went to the Arrows website to look at the menu. I saw that the restaurant lives up to its reputation as one of the most expensive establishments in New England. First courses are in the $15 range and entrees belong to the $40 bracket.

I’ve dusted off my no-limit credit card and hope to put it to good use this evening. I’ll report back soon.

Posted by John Golden at 09:24 AM

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Comments

Good luck. I'll be waiting to hear a report. Many of us will be living vicariously through you tonight.

Posted by Scott Hersey
June 2, 2005 09:34 AM

I'll do my best.

Posted by John Golden
June 2, 2005 09:54 AM

john i have herd many fgood thinsg about arrows', please tell u s what you think when you get back, will you post they're menu on your site so tthat we can see what they half to offer?

Posted by sol rosenberg
June 2, 2005 11:02 AM

Arrows is the most revered restaurant in Maine? Did the White Barn Inn close?

Posted by Hungry in Hampden
June 2, 2005 11:59 AM

I've heard that Arrows is overrated, so you'll have to let us know what you think. We went to White Barn Inn over the weekend and had the best meal (and service) of our lives. Definitely try them when you have the chance and compare the two for us.

Posted by GN
June 2, 2005 12:30 PM

IMHO, the only one who would say that Arrows is overrated is someone who begrudges spending $140 for ONE for the most elegant, incredible dining experience of one's life!! We just went there Sunday night and it was THE MOST incredible dining experience of our lives, all 11 of us agreed!!!

Posted by Jane
June 2, 2005 01:53 PM

I went to the White Barn Inn some years ago and had a wonderful meal. Though I wasn't crazy about all the pomp and circumstance that swirled around each dish

Posted by John Golden
June 2, 2005 02:49 PM

Question. Is this meal expensed? If so, I want to become a Press Herald blogger.

Posted by Still Hungry
June 2, 2005 03:44 PM

$140 for ONE? I've eaten at great places all over the world, and even I might begrudge that amount for Arrows.

At SOME point the price begins to adversely affect your dining experience doesn't it?

Posted by Ebeneezer
June 2, 2005 03:49 PM

I'm John's editor and I can say that John's meals are NOT expensed. He goes where he chooses and when he chooses. His blog is his diary of those experiences. For what it's worth, I've never been to Arrows and am eagerly awaiting his report.

Posted by Scott Hersey
June 2, 2005 04:06 PM

Ebeneezer -- you misunderstood. The poster was saying it was one of the best meals, not $140 for one person. :)

Posted by Leigh
June 2, 2005 07:32 PM

$140 FOR one FOR the most elegant....

I don't think I misunderstood, unless the poster made an error, in which case the misunderstanding started on THEIR end.

Posted by Ebeneezer
June 2, 2005 09:30 PM

For me, personally, if we're just talking about the food, and not the environment or all the other factors, I'll take Fore Street for a meal over any other restaurant I've been to in Maine, and I've been to Arrows (several years ago) and the White Barn Inn (ditto). The latter restaurants succeeded in wooing me with atmosphere and service and the bells and whistles, but if we're talking quality of the meal over and over again I'll go to Fore Street whenever I can.

Posted by Jill
June 2, 2005 10:18 PM

I seem to be outnumbered on the Fore Street experience. I've been twice and found the wait long -- with or without reservations -- and the service snooty, although it appeared to me that regulars or people otherwise known to the staff are treated with more friendliness. The food is fine, but if I am paying big money for this kind of dinner out (a few times a year for me), I want the whole thing: food, service atmosphere, etc. Like Ruth Reichl says, part of the dining experience at a fancy expensive restaurant is feeling like you're rich and pampered, if only for a night. Fore Street gives me one of the three (food). Next time I go out with a full wallet, I'm heading for Cinque Terre or Back Bay Grill, where I know I get more of the full experience I crave. Or maybe I'll try 555, Bandol or even Arrows and see what I get.

Posted by Scott Hersey
June 3, 2005 09:17 AM

Great comments. I too wish that us bloggers could earn so that I could go out more and try more of John's recommendations. I await his Arrows comments with interest.
We took a VERY dear friend there for an important birthday. My husband felt that having to wait while each item on the plate was described in loving detail, and that for each plate for a party of 5, was trying! But then he did pick up the tab.
I was impressed with the food presentation, taste and service, and really enjoyed the experience. I later described this as dining theatre, as opposed to dinner theater.
From the moment we arrived, having got lost, lousy directions from Arrows phone person, we did have a wonderful experience. I love the fact that there is so much good food in Maine, just wish I could afford it on a more regular basis. But maybe then one gets jaded. Are you jaded, John?
I think the secret is that one has to be comfortable with a big tab otherwise that spoils the experience.
Wouldn't it be great if all these comments were available at the restaurants in question? I do hope they are reading John's comments so that Fore St. is more welcoming to Scott etc.

Posted by celia
June 3, 2005 02:12 PM

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