That's a question that even the most demanding, self-critical chef will be too modest to consider. I recently came across that improbability right here in Portland, when I had not just one but two splendid meals that rode the heights of perfection.

I beg to bore you again with the details to say that on two consecutive nights I had two extraordinary meals: one so good in its simplicity and clear flavors, and the other so fine because it's realm of haute cuisine drove home the notion of perfection, a sparkling sense of genius.

The latter occurred at Bandol. And the former at Cinque Terre. Here are two restaurants that are worlds apart. If you haven't been then go immediately. Don't write to me about a bad meal, or it's not your thing. That's fine. Perhaps the chef had an off night or the stove was finicky. Or they're just not your style. Not everyone looks good in Armani or in LL Bean.

But you must try both of these two restaurants because when they're good they're exemplary.

Believe me we're lucky to have these two establishments literally in our back yard.

I have copious notes on both dinners and I'm gathering my thoughts to let you know about my experiences.

I'm not meaning to tease here. I intend to write about the dinners with an entry submitted over the weekend.

Until then--treat yourself to a good dinner.

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