Every so often one encounters a restaurant that is so good that the notion of going anywhere else other than to assuage the need for variety seems senseless.

That’s how I feel about Primo in Rockland. It belongs to that special class of American dining where the expectation of a fabulous meal reaches legendary status.

I’ve gone there on numerous occasions over the years without ever being disappointed. Each time the experience was exciting. The fare is sophisticated yet straightforward with subtle nuances that make it so special.

The kitchen heeds the principles of inventive Mediterranean cooking, offering up bold flavors with the freshest ingredients, much of which comes from their own gardens. Meats, fish and poultry all come from local purveyors who offer high quality, often organically grown items.

If there’s any blight on this near perfect gastronomic landscape it’s this: Getting in to Primo is not easy. Reservations need to be made weeks if not months in advance. And when one of their reservationists responds to your request for a table at a normal dining hour, don’t be surprised to hear that common refrain
“…Five-thirty or nine-thirty is available.”

But the chef/ proprietors Melissa Kelly (the chef) and partner Price Kushner (pastry chef) handle their popularity well.

Kushner is generally roving around the various dining rooms to handle the flow—and overflow—to oversee that everything is running smoothly in their perfectly appointed farmhouse that houses the restaurant. The wait staff is as knowledgeable about the food as the kitchen staff and perform their job beautifully.

This is how a popular and ambitious restaurant works best, whereby either a manager or owner—benevolently omnipotent— rules the roost with perfection in mind.

On the local level places like Arrows, Provence, Pier 77, Café Uffa, Bandol, Cinque Terre and Hugo’s follow similar pursuits.

When regulars arrive at Primo they’re given every opportunity—not always successfully—to be seated without a reservation. I’m not saying this happens all the time. And the wait could be 30 minutes or more. But savvy restaurateurs know to treat both loyal patrons and first time visitors well. That’s how it’s handled at Primo.

I wouldn’t say I’m a regular at Primo. But for many summers I’ve gone there 2 or 3 times a season. You become a familiar face, a warm greeting is offered and it makes you feel welcome and special.

I don’t like to reserve way in advance for at any restaurant. One week ahead of time is the most I’ll do. I prefer to remain spontaneous or be available for an SBBI (subsequent but better invitation).

If I don’t make the effort to reserve a table at a restaurant way in advance I don’t’ mind taking my chances. My ploy is to arrive just before 6 pm for the walk-in approach.

Of course we all know that Fore Street touts such a policy but it always seems that one walks in to a full house at all hours. That’s the price of glory, I suppose.

At Primo you can occasionally land a table from a cancellation. Other times it’s hopeless and you just have to go elsewhere.

Last summer I was able to go there with reservations made only several days in advance and on other occasions I took my chances—successfully. This last go round at Primo we were able to secure 2 seats in the bar room where we enjoyed a wonderful meal.

The bar, by the way, is a jewel-like room on the second floor outside a cozy dining room next door. It has 5 stools (they could be a bit more comfortable) and several small high round tables with the same stools--all of which accommodates about 8 to 10 people

It gets a bit close, but it’s cozy. Every time we’ve eaten there we’ve met people that we knew or wanted to get to know. Not exactly a strangers-on-a-train syndrome but it can make for an interesting evening.

If you do make it to any of the main dining rooms, the ambiance is wonderful and the tables are very comfortable.

In these days of culinary theatrics, Primo remains above it all. There’s none of this minimalist mumbo jumbo that is all the rage these days in establishments considered too keen on themselves. By this I mean you won’t have to surrender to such dishes as salmon ten ways or beef in the manner of poached hen belly.

I don’t mean to belittle culinary experimentation. We need it in order to settle on the inevitable finishing line of experimentation. But if one made the rounds on a steady basis where trendy cookery is the norm, you eventually long for simpler fare.

My impression this time after a fine meal at Primo was that I had real food that filled the plate and remained recognizable from start to finish. I can still savor the complex but clear flavors of the dishes I had there.

It’s amazing that Rockland plays host to such a fine dining venue as this. But the theory is “do it and they shall come” holds true here.

In fact, the entire Mid-Coast, one of my favorite parts of Maine, is putting itself on the culinary map for all of us to enjoy, tourist and local alike. As a destination for foodies, it has much to offer. Besides some of the best lobster pounds in the state, there are other outlets for fine food in almost every corner.

I wish we had in Portland something like The Market Basket on Route 1 in Rockport, definitely a carriage trade operation. The prepared foods are first rate, but it’s their baked goods that really shine: Old fashioned mile high cakes and pies, pastries, breads, cookies and other great confections.

Another favorite purveyor in the area is Rock City Roasters, the coffee roasting concern that really does a great job in offering expertly roasted coffees. Their coffees are available by mail order.

Chase’s in Belfast is primarily a health food eatery, but go there in the summer and fall for the best looking and tasting crop of organically raised vegetables that are arranged in the back of the restaurant.

The restaurant does serve wonderfully inventive food. And there’s also a baked goods counter where some of the best breads are baked right there and available for purchase.

The Camden Farmer’s Market on Wednesday afternoons and Saturday mornings is a wonderful farm outlet offering all manner of vegetables from small organic farms as well as baked goods, meats, poultry and dairy products.

Camden, long a dull town for dining out, has two wonderful dining establishments now--Francine’s on Chestnut Street and Natalie’s in the Knox Mill Complex. Both offer inventive cooking in extremely attractive settings.

Francine’s seems to be favored by the neighboring countryclub crowd of Camden and Rockport, while Natalie’s, more diverse, has great universal appeal and delicious fare in a very attractive setting.

Clearly, though, Primo is the dazzling star in a constellation of some very good other choices. ( I will, at another time, give a more in depth overview of Camden’s two excellent restaurants.)
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What I like the most about Primo is that it serves real food—a well thought out equation of taste and texture.

Here’s what we had there. I started with a warm duck confit served over greens with gorgonzola, candied walnuts and figs. Sure you can get this dish in many restaurants. It’s become something of a staple menu item.

But Primo’s rendition is in a class of its own. There was something about the flavor of the slow roasted duck leg that was different. I can’t really pinpoint the ingredient that made it taste so special. But the duck had a smoky flavor mixed with a lingering effect of something like juniper berries. Don’t hold me to this. Nonetheless it was delicious and beautifully served.

My main course was pan roasted wild striped bass. It was served over an eggplant puree accompanied by a brilliantly flavored mélange of crisp chick pea battered squash, with bits of asparagus and baby eggplant. A garlic aioli and romesco sauce gilded the lily beautifully.

The confluence of flavors in the dish was so tantalizing and enjoyable I practically scrubbed the plate clean savoring each flavor component.

My dinner companion started off with one of my favorite first courses at Primo: Oysters two ways. These are roasted in the wood oven, served with red pepper basil butter and another version of it as crisp fried, with lemon caper aioli.

It may sound like a mouthful but so what? What a splendid combination.

The main course was sautéed local halibut served over a potato-crab cake. The potato was grated into long, strawlike strips and sautéed. With it was a fricassee of corn, fava beans and shaved summer truffles.

Every element of this dish stood out on its own yet co-mingled to produce a confluence of flavors that was elegant and thoroughly satisfying.

Primo has an excellent wine list, heavy on Italian and French selections, and good American choices as well. It’s moderately price, too, either by the glass or bottle. We had a cocktail each before dinner and a glass each of Chianti with our main courses. I would have liked to have chosen a bottle from their great list, but we had a 15 mile drive home down long, winding country roads.

For dessert I chose the passion fruit meringue tart and my companion had the panna cotta. The desserts are extraordinary here. Price Kushner is a brilliant pastry chef.

One time while eating in the bar room I sat next to a woman who had driven that day from Falmouth Foreside to Rockland just to have the dessert sampler.

That’s what I call devotion. And that is what Primo is all about—catering to a loyal following who will do anything to be there—myself included—to enjoy a spectacular meal.

(For the record Primo is moderately expensive but excellent value for a great meal. Entrees are in the mid $20 range and first courses are about $15. Our tab, which included the glasses of wine and a cocktail each, was about $150 before tip.)

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