Cinque Terre has hit its stride flawlessly into the network of Portland’s dining scene. I’ve been there three times in as many weeks and have enjoyed every meal there immensely.

It has settled into being both a restaurant for Portlanders to enjoy as well as a fine destination for visitors.

I was there last night to witness a well run establishment that
treats its regular patrons well and offers equally gracious service to newcomers.

But the important message is that the kitchen is capable of serving up some really fine fare under the guidance of Chef Lee Skawinski. This establishment is certainly the best—and only—source for exquisite Northern Italian fare in Portland, if not the entire state of Maine.

As I watched the staff in the open kitchen, they seemed to work perfectly in unison. The pacing of courses, the attentive service and the very attractive atmosphere all add up to a model for other area restaurants to emulate.

Besides the marvelous food—no easy feat to find these days in a wide world of mediocre restaurants—the place is fun, with a refreshing, insouciant style

The hallmark of Northern Italian cookery is the simplicity of flavors--clear and precise combinations that are a delight. Sauces are not heavy or obtuse. That’s what you’ll find here.

The theme of last night’s menu was to highlight seasonal ingredients, mostly tomato, corn and our wonderful wild blueberries.

I began with frito, shrimp that were lightly breaded and sautéed, with easy hints of lemon, garlic, herbs and tomato. The shavings of sautéed radicchio atop the dish were a marvelous touch. The dish was so simple yet so delicious I found that I scraped my plate entirely clean.

I could have chosen a half order of pasta as a second course before going on to the entrée. Instead my dining companion did so, ordering rigatoni as a second course after an excellent carpaccio (paper thin slices of beef, with fried capers and Parmesan shavings). The pasta—handmade there--were cooked perfectly, with lots of bite.

My main course was swordfish in a wonderful fondue of corn and tomatoes, seasonable ingredients that did everything to compliment the perfectly prepared fish.

My dinner mate had the grilled tuna, well assembled in a seasonal tomato relish that was delicious.

For dessert I had a sweet ricotta that was served over crepes swathed in a delicious wild blueberry sauce. My companion had the panna cotta, which the restaurant does so well.

It’s so rare these days, even in restaurants highly touted and easily depended on, to have a meal from start to finish that progresses so smoothly. It would be no figure of speech to describe our meal last night as lip-smacking good.

Our tab before tip was $150--not inexpensive by standards, but a tab no more than other area restaurants of this caliber--which included several cocktails and a glass of Chianti. It was money well spent indeed for a very satisfying meal.

Food Notes . . .In the weeks ahead I shall be returning to Primo in Rockland, which I’m looking forward to, Francine’s in Camden and another visit to Natalie’s as well.

After Labor Day, when the crowds thin somewhat, I’ll go to Pier 77 in Cape Porpoise. and also pay a visit to Arrow’s new bistro in Perkin’s Cove ( on the site of the former Hurricane) as well as a long overdue visit to Provence in that town.

On the lighter side, let me mention that I had a wonderful dockside lunch in Cundy’s Harbor yesterday at Holbrook’s Lobster, at the tip of that peninsula.

The menu is a short but good one. There are no fried clams but rather locally caught lobsters, fried haddock, crabmeat and the usual hamburgers, hotdogs and great fries.

As lobster pounds go, this one is a very pleasant, pleasingly old-fashioned place. It’s only a 40 minute drive from Portland. I went there because I was in the area.

I had a fried haddock sandwich, which was delicious because the fish was so fresh and the coating was not thick and dense. The onion rings that came with the sandwich were excellent. It’s an out of the way place, not on the tourist radar, so it has a nice local feel. Most everyone eating there had arrived by boat, pulling up to the adjacent landing.

I recommend it highly as a good spot for a weekend day trip.

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