September 18, 2005
Fine Dining on Milk Street
It wins the prize for being the biggest surprise of our ever growing restaurant scene.
20 Milk Street, the new restaurant at the Portland Regency, is fantastic.
A few days ago we were trying to figure out where to go for dinner. We decided on Oolong, which has become a steady favorite of mine. The food keeps on getting better and better. And that’s where we headed to that evening. On the way, I thought of stopping at the Portland Regency to check out its new restaurant.
The first surprise was that 20 Milk Street is a very upstanding, if predictable, but good-looking establishment. I asked if I could get a table, and to my surprise I was told that they were booked solid.
Nearly speechless I regained my composure (when do new restaurants ever get off to such a good start?) and reserved a table for the next evening. Off we went to Oolong for a really good meal. Try the roast half chicken with honey glazed hoisin. Delicious.
I called up a few friends to join us, urging them to try out the new place. Everyone was game.
The room is typical steak house club house décor. But it’s well done. The walls are covered with attractive fabric; the tables are large, covered in pristine white cloths; the seating is arm chairs--soft, cushy and inviting.
In short this is a gracious restaurant but not stuffy or pretentious.
The food? First rate. They claim to serve the best beef in Maine. I’m not so sure of that, but what we had was wonderful. The menu has no surprises: Tenderloin, T-bone, rack of lamb, tuna, halibut, duck and other such choices.
The beef selections come with a choice of sauce, such as Sauce Diane, demi glace or compound butters.
Vegetables are a la carte. We chose a sauté of wild mushrooms and onions and creamed spinach. Both were original and well prepared and were perfect accompaniments.
Two of us had the tenderloin: perfectly grilled, just the right temperature and delicious. The tuna with a Macadamia nut crust was otherworldly good. Another winning entrée was the 16-ounce pan-seared duck breast. It’s so large it seemed like it was cut from a condor, but it was beautifully prepared. The lobster bisque is about the best I’ve had in town, or certainly equal to the excellent versions served at the Cumberland Club and the Portland Country Club. The tuna tartar was prepared with sushi quality tuna and was beautifully presented, though I thought it was very spicy with too much wasabim detracting from tasting the excellent tuna.
Desserts tend to be fancy. We shared one for four of us and sampled their version of mud pie, which was served under a chocolate lace cage and filled with homemade kahlua ice cream on a dark chocolate crust. It was fabulous.
20 Milk Street is expensive. Entrees start at around $25 up to $45 for the rack of lamb. But the food is excellent, very well prepared. The room is great looking; the service is good and attentive.
Oh, I forgot to mention the bread. It arrives wrapped in a napkin in a basket whose underside is layered with lava rocks, which keep this fabulous cranberry loaf of bread warm. We finished it nearly instantly.
This is a welcome addition to Portland dining—and four stars to the Portland Regency for giving us the only steak house in town.
An added plus is the valet parking. You can arrive and depart in style, without having to circle the block endlessly looking for a parking place or to end the evening by having to climb to the top floor of one of our parking garages.
20 Milk Street—you’re off to a great start. Keep it up.
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I'm glad to hear you enjoyed this place, we've been thinking of giving it a try since it opened but we've been hesitant. The old Armory Restaurant had always been a staple in town, we used to go once or twice a year, and the food was always on the good-to-great level, but the restaurant was seemingly always plagued by slow service or a short-staffed kitchen. I do recall a few wonderful Friday night meals with a live piano player though.
Anyhow we're definitely going to give 20 Milk Street a try now, probably stop by for a couple steaks in the next week or two. From the sound of it, I guess we should call ahead. Thanks John!
Posted by
JillSeptember 18, 2005 02:09 PM
I am glad to finally read a fabulous review about "Twenty Milk Street." My business partners and I went in on a busy Friday night, got a lovely table and our dinner was fantastic. I had the crabcakes, the 12 ounce NY sirloin AND the creme brulee. All fabulous, I left full but very happy. The service was also superb, I believe was a female server and two male servers (forgive me, I forgot their names) but they worked so well together and they were very friendly, attentive and knowledgeable. I will be back and am glad the word is finally out there!
Posted by Brian
September 18, 2005 05:40 PM
"It’s so large it seemed like it was cut from a condor..." Nice line. Gave me a good laugh! I'm glad to hear there's a good steakhouse in town now.
Frank
Posted by
September 18, 2005 06:58 PM
My wife and I had a terrific meal at 20 Milk Street. A straight forward, no nonsense steakhouse idea in Portland is sorely needed. The dining room was empty on the Sunday night we dined so it felt like a private club with our own server. The manager came over, we talked wine and we had a great two pound lobster which we shared, wedge salad with blue cheese and a club steak. Bearnaise was perfect. Porterhouse probably would have been a better choice but we did not want to over do it. Wine list could use an uplift and our hors d'oeuvre of baked brie came with very sad looking townhouse crackers but overall a great time. Our server, Chris I think, was wonderfully attentive as was the manager. Look forward to another meal soon.
Posted by
September 18, 2005 07:30 PM
Creamed spinach. . . oh how I've longed for you since my frequent visits to many a New York City Steakhouse. It is good to hear we finally have one right here in Portland. There is nothing quite like the sizzle of beef and a club like atmosphere on a cold Autumn eve. I can't wait to try it. Where are Gretchen's comments ??
Posted by John
September 19, 2005 12:45 PM
I have to agree with your post, John. I have been in to eat several times and it's always been wonderful.
One point I wanted to differ with you on, was that to my recollection there is no T-Bone on the menu - - but I had a nice Porterhouse for about $45.
The chef at 20 Milk Street, Alan Cook, is a long time personal friend - and I'm really glad to finally see him getting the attention he deserves! Hats off to Alan!
Posted by
DianaSeptember 19, 2005 01:15 PM
I'm afraid I have no comment since I've never been there and really don't love steak enough to pay $40 for one. That $23 piece of gristle that we paid for at Katahdin the other night was punishment enough.
Posted by
GretchenSeptember 19, 2005 02:54 PM
Looking forward to trying out 20 Milk Street. It sounds interesting. I do have a bone I want to pick over with you, though. (pun intended....)
I want to preface the following comment by saying that while this may sound a bit churlish, I fail to understand why you are making a sustained pitch for Oolong. I have dined there several times, twice for dinner, and once for lunch. Each experience was more disappointing than the previous one, and I have finally given up. Delicious is not an adjective that I can apply in any way to anything relating to my personal experience with this establishment. Taste may be subjective, but there are standards which are pretty much universal when it applies to food, and Oolong, (much to my dismay, because I so wanted it to be good) is consistent only in its inconsistency. If I had a suspicious nature, I would suspect that there was more to your frequent mentions of the place than meets the eye. Since I know that you are above reproach in this regard, and I often enjoy your comments and observations, I will extend to you the benefit of this serious doubt, and just accept that, for some reason, you adore this place...hey, its your blog, right?
I don't think that Oolong will last Toolong anyhow...not without some serious retooling. Enjoy it while you can.
Posted by
B. WilderedSeptember 20, 2005 09:14 AM
I agree, I have eaten there twice. The first time one of the dishes was simply inedible and was returned to the kitchen - they did not even offer to cook a new dish for us. The second time the food was edible but by no means extraordinary. They have put a great deal of effort into their decor, but It comes off to me as a lot of effort with a small lack of skill in execution.
Style over substance for the most part.
Posted by
September 20, 2005 10:55 AM
Yes it is good to see there is a steakhouse in town. I have tried it, however I couldn't resist trying the Halibut dish instead. It was superb, with a Lobster & goat cheese stuffing. I paired it with an affordable chardonnay and was very pleased. My colleague decided on the Duck which also was a delightful meal with a delicous orange sauce of some kind on it. We finished by splitting the Mud Pie which was explained to us as having homemade Kahlua ice cream. Getting back on my diet may be quite difficult. The decor could use an upgrade as I feel the room was slighly drab, but overall I had a great experience.
Posted by
September 20, 2005 08:25 PM
To B. Wildered. First,let me congratulate you on your choice of the word "churlish," the usage of which is rarely seen in the so-called modern sentence.
But more to the point: It is true that I've referred to Oolong on many occasions. I have no qualms about trying to help out a new restaurant IF i feel it's worth the kudos. I've probably been there 5 or 6 times since they opened and my experiences there have been quite positive.
Of course restaurants, ,especially new ones, can be very uneven. Perhaps you've hit it wrong each time. I never have second thoughts about panning a restaurant if such lack of praise is warranted. I just haven't found that to be the case there. I think the only dish on the menu that hasn't impressed me is their noodle dish with peanut sauce. It needs improvement, Other than that, every entree has been wonderful, and I love the crab and corn rangoons and most of their other appetizers.
Occasionally I'll go to a restaurant that's so bad (this happened recently) that I decide not to write about it, figuring it will eventually die on its own. This happened recently at an eatery in Falmouth, off Route 1, that was beyond hopeless. The food was old, nearly uneatable and totally without redeem.
But that's been the only restaurant in a long time that I have vowed never to go to again.
I went to Oolong this past Sunday and had a really nice meal with friends who joined us there. We sampled a lot of dishes, and other than the peanut noodle concoction, it was all first rate.
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 21, 2005 06:52 AM
Dang...you congratulate people for using archaic words?
Well...if thats the case....
I will never kumtux your amaranthine idee fixe with the execrable restaurant known as Oolong.
How about that one?
Posted by John J.
September 21, 2005 10:02 AM
I will throw a fillip of respect to Mr. Golden for continuing to praise Oolong, despire others' animadvertations, to which I must add my own. My dinner there was, if not outright mephitic, most certainly less than sapid. One dish had as its anlage nothing more than plain, cold iceberg lettuce, with a farrago of other bland items atop. Mr. Golden can persist in his flummery, but it seems that most people have experiences similar to mine, and that Oolong's deserved epicedium will soon be heard.
Posted by
Brett WeirSeptember 21, 2005 10:33 AM
Glad to see you back Mr. Weir.
Will your approbation for Mr. Golden be fugacious if you espy that he spasmodically consorts with the proprietrix of the chophouse?
Posted by John J.
September 21, 2005 01:31 PM
John J. needs a dictionary instead of a thesaurus because many of these words are "loose" synonyms and it reads, uh, a little funny. "Spasmodically consorts"? That almost sent me into spasms of guffaws! Which is, I suppose, what you are intending with these comments, if perhaps for different reasons . . .
Posted by
GretchenSeptember 21, 2005 04:08 PM
God forbid I write something a little funny.
Posted by John J.
September 21, 2005 04:56 PM
I did acknowledge that you were being funny. No worries!
Posted by
GretchenSeptember 21, 2005 05:01 PM
OK, errant wordsmiths, let me praise you all in which the orisons of my gratitude go unabated.
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 21, 2005 05:29 PM
Finally got to try the "new great steakhouse" last night. In a word: mediocre. The Hollandaise on the broccoli tasted like a lemon sauce. The meats were bland, not rich like I would expect grain feed midwestern beef to be. The cranberry bread was good. The service shoddy. Lack of communication between the captain and the servers, dirty glass ware and silver ware. Every time one of the waitstaff passed me they bumped the back of my chair. Kind of like having people on a plane pull on your seat when they go to stand up. One of the servers reached ACROSS my wife to the other side of the table to clear another guest's plate and in doing so nearly dropped a stacked salad plate and knocked over my sister's drink. The wine list was adequate but might benefit from a couple of more choices by the glass. IMHO the prices are WAY out of line for the quality and the service. I certainly would NOT put it in the same league as a Smith & Wollensky's, Gallagher's, Peter Lugers or even Ruth's Chris.
Posted by
JeffNovember 20, 2005 12:20 PM
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