Putting on my cooking hat, I will share my crumble recipe. Crumble is the English name for this pudding (note, not dessert, pudding meaning a sweet concoction ending the meal).
One 8 - 10 cup glass bowl
Squeeze 1-2 lemons into the bowl & peel enough apples to reach almost to the top. (I use whatever local cookers I can find, and resort to a mixture of Granny Smiths and other supermarket apples if forced).
As each apple is sliced into the bowl, stir to coat with lemon juice.
Cover with microwave plastic wrap and nuke for 5-10 minutes depending on the strength of your oven.
I find that I do not need much sugar with local apples, but if I add sugar I add soft brown sugar.
By cooking the apples down in the microwave I do NOT have to add water.
Crumble:
Cream together 3 oz butter & 3 oz brown sugar or mix with white.
Fold in 6 oz white flour.
This can also be done in a food processor, and is how I usually do it. However after the butter and sugar is mixed, add the flour and pulse VERY briefy to just combine.
Pat gently all over the top of the apples just before baking, making sure there are no uncovered apples. Bake in 350 degree oven until crisp and lightly browned on top, (approx. 40 minutes). Serve with real custard, or cream or vanilla ice cream.
This is usually the pud of choice in our house at Thanksgiving - sorry pilgrims - no pumpkin pie for us!

I made a most delicious apple crisp over the weekend. It is my father's recipe but it was my first ever attempt to make it, as I'm more interested in cooking than baking. I don't remember the exact recipe, but I peeled, cored, and sliced enough Macintosh apples to fill a 7X7 dish, sprinkled a little water on top, then topped with the crisp mixture, which I believe was 3/4 c. flour, 1 c. sugar, 1 1/2 sticks of butter (yikes!), and a touch of cinnamon. I softened the butter, and after mixing with forks I wound up with a gooey mess like dough instead of crumbs, but I just flattened it with my hands and laid it over the top of the apples. 350 degrees for 40 minutes. I topped it with a little vanilla ice cream--delicious! And very low in fat.

John, your mention of Paula Dean made me think of something: As a Food Network junkie, I'd like to see your take on the various shows: Which shows and personalities you like/can't stand.

Me, I can't get enough of Everyday Italian, aka "food porn." Mainly for comedic value.

Rachel Ray? Enough, already. What does she have, like ten shows now? I know how to whack the garlic with a knife. And that XVOO is extra virgin olive oil! And the old "let's see if I can make it to the counter will all of this stuff at once!" routine is tired.

Alton Brown? Heart!

Tyler Florence? Bigger heart!

Me? Loser for watching so much Food TeeVee.

Rachel Ray should be banned to the bargain basement. Though sometimes she's so engaging (even with that voice) I want to pinch her cheeks, or something, just to hear her squeal.

Her series on $40 a day somewhere is ludicrous. Her choices are inane. But it's her NY Lonck Island voice that's really more odiferous than her show.

I get a big kick out of Paula Dean, Felidia, and a few of the guys shows like Tyler, and that one from California (can't remember his name) who has that great house and kitchen somewhere in the Napa Valley.

Of course I do like Martha Stewart, though the Barefood Contessa, Ina Garten, who I know quite well, amazes me that he hasn't succumed to hardening of the arteries with all the fat that she uses in her recipes. Ever see her grab the butter as though it were balls of cotton?

I don't think you're alone in wanting to pinch Rachel Ray's, um, cheeks.

Ina Garten, of course! Love her. But you're so right; she never met a fat she didn't like. Maybe it's why her hair is so shiny?

"Ever see her grab the butter as though it were balls of cotton?"

LOL!

And I don't dole those out liberally.

As I was reading this entry, I was hoping for a recipe (to use up my half peck), and lo and behold, I find a Paula Dean apple crisp.

I am a big fan of Paula's, mostly because she takes me right back home on cold New England days. However, I always watch her show thinking, "Today she'll have a recipe I can use without fear of instantaneous heart attack."

It hasn't happened yet.

While 2 1/2 sticks is out of control for a crisp (when one considers how much butter goes into a pie shell as the alternative), I'd say her recipes average 3 sticks of butter. It's too much!

I guess she shows the types of recipes most chefs use. The food tastes good in restaurants because the chef is not afraid to use all that butter to make it taste good.

Ina Garten has the same effect on me. She and Paula both go on and on about how good the food tastes. Of course it's good! You can make anything good with loads of butter and sugar!

I will never forget watching in horror as Paula made a Krispy Kreme bread pudding with 2 dozen doughnuts, canned fruit cocktail, condensed milk and a butter rum glaze (with one stick of butter and a POUND of confectioners sugar. It was simply horrifying.

Then she had the nerve to tell her audience that it couldn't be that bad for you because she didn't add much sugar or fat. First of all, there's plenty of both in a single Krispy Kreme to make it bad for you. Secondly, yah-huh she did!

I love Paula, but she scares me sometimes. However, I might try this crisp recipe, just to say I made one of her concoctions.

Oh and I heart Tyler, too, Colleen. But sometimes I feel like I shouldn't. And sometimes I just want to smack that sidekick on his How to Boil Water show. Could she be less interesting or less capable?

The guy in Napa is Michael Chiarello, and he has had some great recipes. Plus it's just fun to watch him cook and enjoy the scenery.

My only qualm with Giada is how much of the menial stuff they show. "So I'm just going to slice these 30 apples." And they show the first one slowly, then they show the rest, only slightly faster than real time.

Ahem, I meant to say that 2 1/2 sticks is NOT out of control for a crisp.

~Jes

John, what do you think of the crisps/crumbles offered up at local restaurants and the like?

Argh, the How To Boil Water sidekick KILLS me. Sometimes, I expect Tyler to accidentally let his knife slip he looks so annoyed by her.

Her: So THAT'S how you make toast without burning it. And that black stuff is called carbon! Innnnnteresting. *Looks at camera with that stupid "Did you know that? I didn't!" look.*

Concerning local restaurant crisps? Well, I never liked Street & Co., Fore Street's is pretty good. Believe it or not, Moody's has a great crisp. I haven't tried Two Fat Cats crisp yet but I bet it's good. I think I tend to prefer the unctuous
crisps of diner fare better than those I've sample in more rarefied places. After all, desserts are not essentially good for us, so if you're going to have them, go all out.

what didn't you like about S&Co's?

Sorry, no edit button.. But, I'm asking because you don't give reason as to what's wrong with it or how it differs from it's sister restaurant. I've read your review of S&Co and you were extremely dismissive of their desserts.

I always thought that the desserts at St &Co were its weakest link. the food could be wonderful but when it came to dessert one was left with their dead pecan pie, some fruit pie, glopped with chunky dull fillings and the crisps were lackluster at best. The puddings were sometimes good. I hope in Abbey's new restaurant due to open in November on Pine St that she pays more attention to delivering good sweets.

You know what's very interesting, John, is that same recipe that you posted of Paula Deens crisp is hauntingly similar to the "lackluster" one at S&C. Actually, in general, there isn't much room to move with a crisp and what you put under that cousin of the cobbler is most important. But, I've been following your articles since I moved up here a year ago--and read almost every single one before I did to get a lay of the land--and you'll dismiss one restaurant about one thing and absolutely get girlish over the same trait in another. You play favorites and it's very obvious. Visit one restaurant multiple times while your readers seem to have to beg you to visit others. I've tried to read articles of yours before you started writing for mainetoday.com(more to see if your location modifies your pretentiousness), but haven't been able to find anything.
While I realize this has now gone from Crisps to Cutting.. It's still a bit more on topic than
dis(cuss)ing Rachael Ray. And that's actually an Upstate NY accent she has as it's where she's resided most of her life.
Ciao.

Coulda fooled me about Rachel Ray's accent.

Can't really say about the crisps. I've tried S&Cos and it's OK. I've made Paula Dean's and thought it was delicious. Maybe it's all in the execution. I have my own version, which sometimes works out well and other times doesn't. I have, however, become to prefer the melted butter method over others.

It's my prviledge to play favorites. These are not traditional reviews with an itinerary of where to go and assess but rather my perigrinations around the local food scene. It's a diary. As such I do and say what I want. I definitely have my favorites.

As for being contradictory, I'd love to know of some examples. I might say that a restaurant is dirty but the food is delicious there.

Hopefully it's all of some significance to who ever reads it.

The reviews in the print edition have gotten a bit more critical, which is good, though they haven't gone far enough.

I am sensitive to the fact that we are in a small world here, and I don't wish to do any one establishment harm. ON the other hand, it's good to keep some of them on their toes.

Yes, I go on about my favorites and will continue to do so and will try to visit new places too for newsworthiness. Alas, the rate of new establishments opening is not high.

Be warned my favorites are Primo, Bandol, Uffa, 555, Fore St, Cinque Terre, and others that I've mentioned over and over again.

In any case, I'm trying to inject new material here, on eateries in all price ranges. But it's not always easy. This column appears when I have the time to write. Sometimes it's every day, other times it's once or several times a week.

I've sort of decided that I'll do some sort of recipe article, like the crisps, on Wednesday, which is national food day in newspapers.

For example, I made a great tomato casserole last night and might include that in a piece for next Wed., before our farm fresh tomatoes leave us for good. These will be musings on seasonal foods.

see what happens when the debate of crisps vs. crumbles comes to the masses? i've actually never had either/or and will have to try Moody's some day.

I think crumble is chiefly a British term, but they're fairly interchangeable here. But I think I'm going to research crisp vs. crumble and write my findings in Food for Thought

Crisps and crumbles could be synonymous, but my impression is that crisps are more buttery while crumbles have some sort of oats in the mixture. I could, of course, be entirely wrong; or I could be confusing crumbles with cobblers . . .
I appreciate the point of view of the anonymous poster above, but I would like to agree with John's self-defense, and that is that this is a blog and he is under no obligation to be objective. I do, however, think that he is; at least as objective as one can be when talking about a topic as subjective in nature as food. I appreciate that John considers all aspects of a restaurant, such as bar facilities, service, and ambiance, instead of just the food. And that might be where some of those contradictions that "anonymous" pointed out come from. Two restaurants could have very similar qualities but he might like one and not the other due to differences in other aspects. For instance, we recently went to Katahdin and I loved the atmosphere and the bar was capable, however the service was slow and the food and drinks were overpriced. So if I like another restaurant with a similar atmosphere while I don't like Katahdin, that might seem to be a contradiction, however it is not.

I like the chairs at Hugo's, the stools at Moody's, the napkins at Bandol, the booths at Uffa, the clams at Susan's Fish n Chips and the drinks at Kathadin, the fries at Norm's...etc, etc, etc. You're right, Gretchen, a little of this and that all goes into the pot.

It's not really surprising to anybody that John would hate Rachel Ray's $40 series, if only based upon the very premise.

A show that actually shows mere mortals how to dine inexpensively?

The horror.

Not that it's on the Food Network anymore, but Tony Bourdain's "A Cook's Tour" was awesome. Anybody who eats the still-beating heart of a cobra gets my admiration.

His new show on the Travel Channel has a bit more hi-gloss production behind it, with I think is a detriment.

Shannon, how do you make your crumble at S&Co? That is what you do, correct? If so, you should let others know that.

I like your sig WWJDD.

But I must disagree with your assessment that Rachael Ray's $40 A Day portrays how mere mortals eat. I am always embarrassed at her meager tips in her attempt to keep her budget.

If I recall correctly, she tips anywhere between 5 and 15 percent! YIKES! What a way to treat the locals when they've been so kind to you! I tipped better than that when I was in high school dining at the Waffle House at 3 am.

The worst was the show on Portland had her eating at the Pepper Club. If I've ever seen overpriced food in Portland, it was there!

~Jes

She explained her tipping on her website and it's minimum 15%. The problem is, you never exactly see the breakout between tax and tip.

You are critical of certain points within certain shows, but you certainly shouldn't poo poo the premise. Do you?

She does have some meager tips, but I think her BASIC tip is that you can dine out, at a variety of places, for relatively cheaply.

I thought her Portland show was pretty good. Of course it had problems, but for an outsider coming here I thought it was decent. Sampling at the PPM, breakfast at Becky's, lunch at Harraseekeet, dessert at the Green Grocer, and dinner at Pepperclub.

Wide variety of choices, wide variety of cuisine.

John, why don't you give us an alternate day in the Portland area? What would YOU have a tourist do for a full day of dining in Portland and keep it under $40?

I know, I know. Lets just ASSUME that somebody would want to keep it under $40. We aren't all ex-publishers from NYC.

Oh, no.. I've been outed. I actually don't make the crumb at Street...i make the crisp ;) Which is a new one for me because, as I said, I've never had one before in my life. Also, I've been there all of 4 1/2 months and have made it my personal mission to tinker around with new desserts(but, as I'm new in the field and highly respect my chefs, Abbey and Dana, I wouldn't dream of messing with what they have/had). I just follow the recipe that's in house--which only slighly varies on the recipe that John included in his post.. I guess it use to have nuts in it, but they were removed so that people w/nut allergy would be tempted. I also have never eaten at Fore St., so I actually have no idea how they vary from us, but it seems a bit like they have very similar desserts to us(my ignorance to their menu and recipes is why I asked John what the inherant difference was between the two)
Today is a day where I wish John were dining at Street. I made a very yummy chocolate and goatcheese hazelnut frozen torte. The mix is actually from New World Cooking in Woodstock, NY. Ric Orlando did a seminar @ my culinary school where he made goatcheese truffles rolled in various spices and I nearly lost my mind over them. Also made a batch of pumpkin breadpudding, which I also had never had before coming here, that was fabulous. My chef's recipe for that one. And while I would like to mold myself into an east coast Gale Gand, there are perimeters that one has to stay in when working for someone else.

I also love the Rachael Ray conversation going on. She's been the topic of many a feud on Salon.com and egullet.com.

That is what you do, correct? If so, you should let others know that.

Posted by

_____________

john get an edit button damnit!! Actually I don't believe I have to let anyone know what I do.. I also work at a performing arts venue, should I disclose exactly where so that if I want to discuss a performance, someone could discount my having a very peaceable conversation on the matter? Which is basically what Senor Anon is trying to do.. show that I'm biased.
Alas, S.A... I'm a student who feeds off of knowledge and know the difference between baiting someone and constructive criticism. I've disagreed with John--I had a horrendous time @ Oolong and left wanting to dismiss the inattentive manager with his own limbs--but, I also have my own blog and weigh in on that forum.
Also, oh irony, I don't have to use my real name, Senor Anon. When it has significance and relevance, I disclose personal info, but never a moment before.
I am also a smoker(but I loudly applaud the ban). I listen to the Grateful Dead(which will guarantee that I will NEVER work for Anthony Bourdain) and lots of chick music. I actually will take a fresh loaf of baked bread over any dessert anyday. And I'm a Taurus(which explains my love of all things indulgent and the bullheadedness that fuels my answering your question in the first place).

LOL... again.. need...edit.. button..

that was me...

now go out and enjoy the weather before the snow comes!

I haven't been to S*C in a long while because the restaurant is too steamy in the summer. And we've still got summer. Your desserts sound great. But I think I'll try to snare a table at Fore Street.

I go to plenty of untrendy restaurants. I just don't write about them. Not much to say really. Would you like me to report about the time I looked into the the heart of an artichoke
at Olive Garden?

Olive Garden.. you have no idea how much that is the punchline to jokes with my partner.. but, that's too much personal info for this forum. Isn't it one of the top reader rated italian restaurants, too? *sigh*

I would love to see the day where you sit down and have some fried chicken and greens @ Honey's(which is AMAZING, btw--truly 'soul'ful food) and write about it. But, call me selfish, I like hearing more about places I can afford to eat at then not(because reading about Arrows gave me NEEDS, damnit). I think that may be what gets some readers--the fact is that a lot of the places you write about are not that obtainable to a good portion of people in Maine. But, then that begs the question, "Are those the people that read your blog or not?" In a way, you have to wonder if you and I have nearly the same job---to cater to, or try to change, a local palate. I like to think that, with my job, I have the amazing opportunity to do both. For the 'foodie', I have something like the torte and for the bluecollar worker who has chosen Street for a special meal, I can give them something familiar, like the chocolate cake. But, I also like to think that sometimes that 'average joe/jane' will throw caution to the wind and try the mix of chocolate and, gasp, goatcheese.

Shannon, you dont have to use your real name. The way you write puts a beacon on your head. And I disagree, if your job has specific relevance to the blog at hand and you always seem to shill or bait for Street and Co, then it is your ethical duty to disclose this. I am sure Dana would agree.

The only time I've ever had a beacon on my head was when I had neon pink hair. Ah, my youthful days.
And, LOVE the 'always shill and bait' for street and co.' when I've actually gone back and read through the few comments I've made to this blog to see if I had(ok, to see if my ego got the better of me) and not once did I do anything resembling it. And, actually, the only time I've taken issue with anything John has said was in his glowing review for Oolong which, I have to say, I feel like it was a dream because it was that bad.
And, surely, you're not about to give out ethical advice on the divulging of anything when you still hide behind a blank name field. Not even creative enough to hide behind one of the lamer monikers that people have taken up.
I also do prep @ Street and I'm putting that out there in case the topic of mincing anchovies comes up.
Rock on, Senor Anon, you've provided more entertainment for me than cable. I'm going to read some british magazines now(in case you're keeping a profile on me now). Let us know when you can be adult enough to actually divulge YOURSELF and not hide behind a blank space(though, I do have to say it is a bit symbolic of what you've contributed to the general discussion).

Speaking of crisps, I had one last night for dessert at Fore St., where I had a lovely dinner. We ordered the crisp as our extra dessert just so I could sample it. It was perfectly OK. I wasn't sent over the edge but it was faultless nonetheless. Perhaps crisps are not over-the-edge entities to begin with. Though I must admit that the crisps I make are ones that I prefer.

OUr main desserts were panna cotta with melon sauce, and maple cream profiteroles. Both were extraordinary desserts; the crisp, however, by its very nature, coudln't compare.

John - try something new.

Hearing about Fore Street every day is becoming tedious.....

John,

Keep on truckin'. The people who complain and dismiss may simply go away!

~Jes

Once again, I simply make a reasonable comment, and the "Golden Groupies" come out in full force.

I KNOW this is a blog, I KNOW he can dine wherever he wants, I KNOW he has no particular dining agenda. I'm simply saying to PERHAPS mix things up and PERHAPS give us, the readers (or, at a minimum - this reader), something new and fresh.

Use the advice. Don't use the advice. It's simply advice.

Now I will prepare for the wrath of the Groupies.

You all are always free to make suggestions. For instance, can any one share some information on great dining at country inns?

I, too, am getting tired of the same old.

M.E. Ker,

It's because of people like you that I comment on this blog only 12 times a day. If everyone would take my advice and not respond to you, then perhaps you'll move on, and those of us who enjoy hearing about John's nightly trip to Fore Street can read his insights without having to wade through comments like yours. I read this blog from work, where I am very busy, and if I didn't have to spend so much time telling people not to respond to comments like yours, I could better use the 48 minutes of each hour that I devote to this blog.

~Sej

WWJDD,

I'm surprised to hear that the $40/Day website says she tips at least 15%, but I can only hope that explanation was a result of other viewers who were not satisfied with her recommended tipping (or what it appeared to be).

You say that tax and tip are always summed together, but that still doesn't explain some of the tips I saw, in fact, it makes some of them worse. Perhaps she doesn't include drinks of any kind in her tipping.

I'll have to pay closer attention if I ever see the show again. But I thought I remembered seeing a tax and tip total of around 10% once. It was so sad!

I like the premise of the show and some of the non-monetary tips she doles out, but I guess it got old fast.

~Jes

Right on cue!!

P.S. You don't have to read the post blog comments if they disturb you so much.

Just like you don't have to read John's posts if you find them so "tedious".

How do I know it's tedious (i.e. he chooses to drop Fore Street into his blog AGAIN) until after I've read it?

If Jes is only interested in reading John's blog (which is apparently the case), why not just do that?

Gretchen,

As I've recommended 2.7 times per day since this blog started, don't respond to the trolls, or they'll just keep posting, and shift the focus to themselves, and away from me.

~Sej

Anyone know of the much-hyped Indian place south of here (Scarborough?)? Eaten there?

I'd like to know if it's really worth the haul.

~Jes

John, while your groupies go back and forth criticizing me for offering you my own constructive criticism (is it the word "tedious" they have a problem with?), I'll actually respond to your question.

I had a wonderful dinner at the Hartstone Inn last summer. Chef Michael Salmon has really made a name for himself (featured in Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, and Gourmet magazines - among others). He even offers cooking classes on select weekends for guests of the inn.

Next class on Nov. 12 features sushi....

I'd like to state for the record that this Sej is not me.

Are we adding fraud to the list of ridiculous things that go on here?

Is being a poseur better than being a troll?

~Jes

Yes, I've heard about the Hartsone. Where is it?

I stayed at the Inn at Thorn Hill in Jackson NH last year and every meal that we ate was exceptional.

The Hartstone is in Camden. Not sure if you would classify Camden as a "country" setting (it's all relative), but the Inn certainly has a "country" flavor.

http://www.hartstoneinn.com/

p.s. Go to Madd Apple. Of course, all this hype might jinx it.

Jes,

You wouldn't happen to be posting on here several times a day on our dime, would you?

Your perhaps soon-to-be former boss

John and other bakers,

I made the crumble last night! I made a double batch, and because I could not bring myself to use more than a pound of butter, I used three sticks and some olive oil (regular, not extra virgin). Then I wet the mixture with water.

It was/is delicious! However, next time I might even cut the topping mixture in half. It seemed like there was as much crumble as there was apple. Is that how it's supposed to be? I guess I'm used to cobblers, where the topping is the accent.

Thanks!

~Jes