September 27, 2005
Dinner at Eve's
Eve’s at the Garden, the dining room in the Portland Harbor Hotel, is not exactly a romp in the tuilleries. Nonetheless, a friend of mine has been raving about it for months, saying that’s he’s had wonderful luncheons there, that the salmon entrée with “a very reputable beurre blanc” was first rate.
So we went there last night with great anticipation.
Hotel dining rooms have gained in popularity and esteem in recent years. In some cities, the best restaurants are located in hotels.
Then, again, some of the best city restaurants are not in hotels. Our nearest, largest metropolis, Boston, has no lack of good restaurant without hotel affiliation and very good ones that do such as Ajourd’ hui at the Four Seasons or Spire Restaurant at the boutique hotel Nine Zero.
Portland, too, has hotel projects in the works that promise to offer fine dining.
So far only the Regency and the Portland Harbor Hotel here can lay claim to serving
good food. I’ve already reported on 20 Milk Street at the Portland Regency and think they’re doing a great job.
When I reserved a table at Eve’s I was told that it would be a quiet evening. Mondays often are. In larger cities, restaurants are often closed on Monday. If that were the case here we’d all have to eat at home.
Nonetheless there we were. Dining at Eve’s does mitigate the city’s parking problem. The hotel has valet parking, and you can zip right into the Fore Street entrance of the hotel’s garage, have your car whizzed away, and find it there waiting for you—free of charge—when you’re ready to leave.
When we entered the main lobby, the restaurant host was nowhere to be found. The lobby was busy with people checking in—in this case a trendy group dressed in black who looked vaguely familiar as though one might have seen their faces on a record cover. The white lizard boots on one of them was a dead give away that they weren’t New Englanders. That and the Prada luggage were further signs that they were alien visitors.
In my limited experience with the hotel, I think they‘ve done a good job in creating an attractive interior, aiming at the vague notion of citified sophistication in décor and service.
The host materialized eventually, a young man in a brown suit and spiked hair who was affable, if not a bit fulsome with cordialities. The dining room was nearly empty, which I expected and didn’t care. When, however, he started to direct us to a small table for two--almost all of the larger tales were empty and destined to stay that way all evening-- I suggested that we have one of the banquettes for four. No problem.
We were given menus and the wine list was opened for us, up-ended on the table. It was too large, in the way and I shoved it aside to the empty banquette beside me.
Our waiter came over and introduced himself. I hate it when they say something like, “Hi, I’m Arthur and I’ll be your server this evening.” I want to respond, “Hi, I’m John, and I’ll be your unmanageable diner this evening.” I think it but never say it.
These are inconsequential complaints, really. I’m there for the food, maybe a little ambiance and a short night on the town, such as it is.
Hotel restaurants must employ menu copy writers who dream up these unctuous descriptions. The dishes sound so fussy and florid. I’d much rather read “char-broiled T-bone” rather than something like "Finely honed cut of well marbled beef grilled to perfection.” I’ll be the judge of how well it’s grilled.
Still, the offerings as written on the menu sounded interesting. First courses included a chilled “twin” heirloom tomato soup; bruschetta with smoked salmon, capers, black olives, artichoke and ricotta; lobster and sherry stew with chives, and a few other compelling dishes.
I chose what interested me the most: Fresh Maine lobster wrapped in shredded phyllo. And my companion played it safe by having the mozzarella and heirloom tomato salad.
I had asked our waiter about the tomato soup because I was intrigued by the “twin” preparation. I assumed that two versions of it were served in separate bowls. I was half right. In this case the two versions come in the same bowl—one a puree of yellow tomatoes with clams and the other with red pulp, enhanced with arugula and fennel. The waiter explained that it’s served in one bowl and that the brew manages not to converge.
In short order the first courses arrived. The tomato salad was fine. The lobster concoction that I chose was unusual. Perhaps that’s why I ordered it.
The lobster comes caged in a mound of shredded phyllo, which looked instead like it had been trapped inside this intricate web of crushed pastry, looking similar to balls of shredded-wheat cereal.
It might have been an interesting concept had the pastry not been as dry as sawdust, and if the lobster hadn’t been so tough. The flavor wasn’t bad, however.
My next course was pan roasted free range chicken, and my dinner mate ordered shrimp with Provencal vegetables over angel hair pasta.
The chicken was served in a tangy tomato broth, a bit acidic but not unpleasant. With it came these humongous ravioli, described as “capalacci” on the menu. They were filled with vegetables and diced chicken and should have been warmer. The breast itself had a strange appearance. The skin was barely browned, looking more like it had been boiled than roasted. Parts of the breast were a bit dry, if not crunchy. I’m still alive at this writing so I suppose it was fresh.
My companion’s shrimp and pasta looked OK, though we couldn’t quite make out what role the pasta was suppose to have. It was formed into a round cake--stiff, sullen and vaguely gray. I did not ask for a taste sample, and if there were moans across the table they were inaudible.
I glanced at the wine list. It’s very short. About ten whites and ten reds. We cupped a cocktail each and glasses of iced tap water.
We shared one of only several dessert offerings: in this case Oreo cheese cake. It was a sliver-like wedge (I didn’t need anything bigger but just thought I’d mention the size) of Oreo flecked cheesecake. With the dessert came our check, which we paid immediately.
I’ve seen the restaurant’s chef, Jeff Landry, on one of our local TV news shows, preparing what looked like a very pleasing dish. He was impressive. Perhaps Monday is his night off. In fact I’m often hesitant about eating out on Mondays. The food could be leftover from the weekend. And as I once learned while dining at a London fish restaurant on a Monday, it’s not the thing to do unless one is fond of ptomaine.
I’m not saying the food was bad here. It’s just wasn’t memorable enough to make me want to return.
Still, Eve’s could have potential. The room is quiet, gracious and comfortable and a nice alternative to more unruly establishments that thrive on noise and bluster.
Ultimately our meal that night was about as good as the piped-in music, which was too loud and unnerving.
Eve’s at the Garden--who the heck is Eve anyway?—is, I suppose, a reference to the very attractive garden dining area outside or perhaps to Eve of, In the Garden of Eden (is the bar named the Adam Lounge?)
But what gets me is why the hotel management didn’t give us something that we don’t have, as the Regency did with their excellent steak house, 20 Milk Street?
A fine brasserie or bistro in the true sense could have worked, appealing to tourists and locals alike. Or perhaps something ethnic or even offer a nod to local specialties. As it is, the Portland Harbor is an attractive hotel, one that I’ve often recommend to visiting friends to stay because the rooms are nice-looking and the hotel is central to all the other places in town where a good meal can be found.
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My husband and I dined at Eve's on a Saturday night over the summer, and the place was packed and the food was great. I'd be willing to bet if you gave them another shot on a non-Monday you'd be more impressed!
Posted by
JillSeptember 27, 2005 11:43 AM
I think you might be right. And I meant to put in a disclaimer saying that my assessment might have been premature. I think I did give some mention of that towards the end of my article. But I'm glad you enjoyed your meal. I always want these places to succeed. But there's no harm in keeping them on their toes, too.
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 27, 2005 01:09 PM
Before finishing university I worked as a waiter for a long time - I used to say "my name is j and I'll be taking care of you this evening," because I hated the way "server" sounded.
What would you rather a waitperson say?
Posted by
jSeptember 27, 2005 03:52 PM
IT's a false sense of chuminess when I hear those introductions. They just sound so out of place. A simple good evening or afternoon
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 27, 2005 04:12 PM
The "I'll be taking care of you" doesn't really bother me, although it is sort of stating the obvious. I suppose one could just say "I'm so-and-so, may I take your drink order". However, and slightly off topic, my personal pet peeve is when waitstaff (or whatever you'd like to call them) say "you guys"; as in "what can I get you guys" or "would you guys like another drink". I hear it all the time, and while I don't find it personally offending I imagine that a group of 80 year old women might.
Posted by
GretchenSeptember 27, 2005 05:03 PM
To me it's a country bumpkin mentality.
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 27, 2005 05:18 PM
Gretchen, I think age(both the patrons and the staffs) has a bit to do with presentation on the part of the waitstaff as well as environment. I would be hardpressed to believe that "you guys" would be uttered at Hugo's, but would be shocked if it weren't while grabbing a burger at Dewey's. Also, the career waitpersons I've known in my life are--again, depending on the venue--are more likely to be a bit more formal, than some of those still green around the edges.
On the flipside of your complaint, I have to say that being called "Ma'am" bothers me tremendously at a young age. But, more so if I'm grabbing a quick bite, then if I'm dining four star.
John, was the episode w/the Eve's chef the one where he did the Halibut w/Stonewall rub and oil? I believe it ran this past Saturday on Fretz's Kitchen.
Posted by Shannon
September 27, 2005 05:53 PM
www.dictionary.com:
2. Guys - (Informal). Persons of either sex.
It's not a male/female issue, so it must be a setting issue for you.
Posted by M. Webb
September 27, 2005 06:51 PM
Guys conveys a country bumpkin mentality? Surely you jest.
Have you ever been to Brooklyn?
Oh, wait, I get it. If you say it in Maine you're a country bumpkin. If you say it in NYC you are endearing.
Posted by J. Gotti
September 27, 2005 06:53 PM
I’ve read about Eve’s at the Garden and Portland Harbor Hotel several times recently in the paper. Just last weel chef Landry organized a fundrasier for Red Cross. Seven chefs from area restaurants came to Eve's to cook together and entertain guests. Some time ago I read in the business pages that Hotel and restaurant staff was being trained by The Protocol School of Washington. Eve's earned four stars from the paper's food section this year, too. That’s pretty good stuff. I have eaten several satisfying meals at Eve's. I've entertained clients there and celebrated special occasions with family and friends. Bottom line, it's a great place. I recomend it to everyone I meet.
Posted by
JimSeptember 28, 2005 08:34 AM
This is where Southerners have it. "Y'all" is inherently gender neutral. Although, you don't often hear it in fine dining, even it the South.
John, I could not agree with you more about complimentary valet parking, which is also a tourist-friendly feature.
I'd like to hear about a non-Monday visit, too. Eve's seems to have some fans.
~Jes
Posted by
September 28, 2005 09:48 AM
Oh, and my waitstaff pet peeve is when you say "Thanks" and they say "Sure" or "No problem" rather than a simple "You're welcome."
But this seems like it may be more of a cultural thing than a restaurant thing. Just count how many people say "You're welcome" after you say "Thanks" in a day.
~Jes
Posted by
September 28, 2005 09:51 AM
I will definitely go back to Eve's--lunch the next time--to look for more positive signs.
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 28, 2005 10:39 AM
I have to point out that many, if not most, restaurants reviewed in the PPH get favorable reviews and generally receive at least 3 stars. So saying that Eve's earned four stars is "pretty good stuff" is a bit of an exaggeration. I'm glad that you like Eve's. I've never been there, but I'm interested in trying it after reading about it here. But I have read enough of the restaurant reviews printed in the PPH to know that four stars doesn't count for much. (The reviews have gotten somewhat more critical, in the best sense of that word, in recent months, perhaps due in part to comments made on this blog. But I still don't find it a very trustworthy indicator of dining quality.)
Posted by Masala
September 28, 2005 10:54 AM
My reviews here are different from the PPH's print edition reviews. I didn't give Eve's 4 stars. I don't award stars but rather a few too overly critical words when needed. Ha, ha
Posted by
John GoldenSeptember 28, 2005 11:32 AM
Just to clarify, I was referring to Jim's comment above regarding the four stars.
I appreciate that you don't give stars. Much better to hand out the critical (both positive and negative!) words.
Posted by Masala
September 28, 2005 11:53 AM
A friend and I recently had dinner at 20 Milk Street. We were pleasantly surprized by the dining experience. I had a veal chop and my dining companion had the scallops. We were both quite pleased. The only problem we each encountered was the over abundance of food. The salad and a bowl of soup would have satified my appetite. Fortunately neither of us had soup. My friend didn't finish his garden salad so that he'd have room for the entree. I will eat there again and recommend it but tell my friends not to attempt a multi-course meal. We were the only two diners that night which may be the reason the the service was so exceptional.
Posted by
Bruce Erwin JohnsonSeptember 30, 2005 04:07 PM
Personally, I hate Eve's at the Garden. I agree, Who the hell is Eve?
The food is forgettable, the dining room is a bad hotel lobby. I think for the most part you'll find it's empty, even on Saturday night.
I've given this place several chances, having dined there on three separate occasions.
They have a limited, terrible wine list that each time the server has promised is under construction and will improve.
One of my experiences there involved being in charge of my company's christmas party. We were charged HUNDREDS of dollars apiece for appetizers that were obviously from Aramark. I actually confirmed through a staff member, who told me that each frozen appetizer was from Sysco. An example would be 700.00 for 40 people just for the bad frozen spanikopita. It was between 500-600 dollars for each additional bad appetizer.
Bottom line - Skip the Hotel and Skip the Restaurant. Go to Uffa, Hugos, Dogfish, or Norms. Or better yet, spend all of the money you were going to use for Eve's and get a ridiculously good bottle of wine and bring it to Tu Casa. Always satisfying and consistent, plus it's BYOB so you're not at the mercy of crappy restaurant wine lists.
Posted by
October 2, 2005 01:26 PM
Personally, I hate Eve's at the Garden. I agree, Who the hell is Eve?
The food is forgettable, the dining room is a bad hotel lobby. I think for the most part you'll find it's empty, even on Saturday night.
I've given this place several chances, having dined there on three separate occasions.
They have a limited, terrible wine list that each time the server has promised is under construction and will improve.
One of my experiences there involved being in charge of my company's christmas party. We were charged HUNDREDS of dollars apiece for appetizers that were obviously from Aramark. I actually confirmed through a staff member, who told me that each frozen appetizer was from Sysco. An example would be 700.00 for 40 people just for the bad frozen spanikopita. It was between 500-600 dollars for each additional bad appetizer.
Bottom line - Skip the Hotel and Skip the Restaurant. Go to Uffa, Hugos, Dogfish, or Norms. Or better yet, spend all of the money you were going to use for Eve's and get a ridiculously good bottle of wine and bring it to Tu Casa. Always satisfying and consistent, plus it's BYOB so you're not at the mercy of crappy restaurant wine lists.
Posted by
JoeOctober 2, 2005 01:27 PM
this isn't critical it's hostile, it's beyond judgmental into condescending- i have eaten at eve's several times and have found every meal delicious
Posted by
davidOctober 14, 2005 03:11 PM
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