October 11, 2005
Five-Fifty Five in Top Form
Five-Fifty Five Congress has defied the odds of location.
Along the pluck of Congress Street, where it seems like the grim reaper is a full time resident, it’s all the more surprising that this fine dining establishment has managed to flourish along such an arcane byway.
Oh, for sure, signs of gentrification are gyrating along the avenue like pompous mannequins amidst the rubble. Soon enough the lure of luxury condos will replace these seedy predecessors. One of these days Congress Street might even become a proud thoroughfare.
But until then it’s a sundry tempest offering a narrow alley of dining options. There’s Norm’s, which couldn’t be finer for what it is. Add to that a slew of ethnic operations, some good, some highly questionable.
And then there’s the surefire Five Fifty Five.
It was an instant success as soon as it opened. I became a regular there fast. Who could not like the zesty, stylish fare of chef/co-proprietor Steve Corry, whose easy manner and complex sense of taste deliver a well mated rendition of the American bistro style?
Add to that Michelle Corry-- wife, co-owner and manager supreme-- who directs the comings and goings like the consummate hostess. Lesser establishments will often upstage their shortcomings behind a lubricious mind-set of conceit or arrogance.
Here even its somewhat cutesy menu titles can be forgiven because what arrives is so good. Probably most Portlanders who go there have enjoyed the so-called Steak and Cheese--aka carpaccio-- with slivers of Parmesan; or such an irreverent invention like the Johnny Cakes, unlike Rhode Island corn pone but instead a devise of salmon and scallop cakes, with a dollop of caviar. Another favorite was something called ‘A salmon, a mouse and a goat”: translated as house-cured salmon and greens married to a goat cheese mousse.
It dawned on me recently that I hadn’t been to 555 for a very long time. What with so many other options available—some good, most not—I felt like the boundless lothario who had grazed for culinary concupiscence elsewhere, only to realize that the best was so close by.
So we went the other night, after a First Friday art walk. Our usual table was taken by a duo of slow diners who seemed glued to their seats. We were given a perfectly comfortable spot for two across the room.
But we had casually invited a friend to join us and were surprised to see her walk in, having made the unlikely trek from Peaks Island to Congress Street for a rainy evening of dining in town. We needed a larger table, which we got easily enough in the middle of the dining room. It’s probably my least favorite spot, but I was a good sport and pretended to be content. But no sooner had we settled in that a large table opened up across the room, and we asked to be move there. Oh, well, if one is to be a pest it helps to be a regular!
The first surprise was to encounter an entirely new fall menu. There were so many great sounding choices we wanted to try them all.
One of the new dishes was a tantalizing red beet tart with goat cheese, walnuts, red onion jam and balsamic reduction. I contemplated ordering my old favorite, the Johnny Cakes, which that evening was salmon and diver scallops with preserved lemon and chili oil. A new dish, the Bacon and Egg Salad, turned out to be Niman Ranch bacon, spinach, arugula from Laughing Stock Farm, served with Shelburne Farm cheddar on toast. The flatbread that evening was this amazing sounding combination of house smoked duck confit, with cheddar, heirloom apples and organic local green onions.
We chose the beet tart, the bacon and egg salad and the flatbread.
Everyone loved their choices but after a round of tasting we decided that the flatbread was the clearest winner in a close race of second and third choices. The confit was gutsy and wonderful, augmented with the caramelized pairings of onions, apples and cheese.
I tried the beet and goat cheese and thought it was a winning combination set in the flakiest short crust; the salad offered clear, distinct flavors--everything so fresh and perfectly matched.
For our entrees, it’s what we didn’t have that I aim to have the next time we go, hoping some rendition will still be on the menu. What we chose though was wonderful all around.
I had the grilled organic Irish salmon that was prepared in such an unusual way that I can’t wait to have it again. The preparation is grilled salmon served over fried green tomatoes, cloaked in a slow cooked barbeque sauce boosted by watermelon sweet pepper syrup; but what I loved the most was the compliment of the little rounds of cornbread that were soaked in bourbon.
Another in our group ordered the “truffled mac and cheese.” This was hand-rolled pasta (torchio), bathed in Shelburne Farm cheddar, Gruyere and aged Gouda cheeses, shaved black truffles and white truffle oil to finish. For $18.95, including the truffles, this is one of the best pasta dishes in town. The third dish was the pan seared pepper crusted diver scallops, other renditions of which have been a steady on the menu. This one was beautifully served on a bed of fennel and potato puree and butter glazed pearl onions and baby carrots. I always thought that Back Bay Grill's porcinni encrusted scallops was the best scallop dish in Portland. This one is its equal.
If you happen to be watching calories, put that regimen on hold. You must sample the extraordinary dessert offerings from the restaurant’s new pastry chef, Brant Dadaleares, who’s been there for several months setting a new standard of excellence. He comes from the venerable Arrows Restaurant.
We ordered two desserts: the honey roasted fig blue cheese turnover and the Snell Farm caramel Cortland apple cake. The fig is adorned with an orange mousse, candied walnuts and balsamic icing that are absolutely captivating. The apple cake is no ordinary slice either. It’s paired with house-made olive oil ice cream, with candied dried fruit compote.
Ultimately, as some restaurants wobble and some are just plain blah, it’s nice to know that Portland has at least one that stays in top form.
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You talk about this restaurant like it's been around for a long time.
And you seem to think that a restaurant's success is somehow correlated to it's quality.
Better restaurants in Portland have closed over the years, and I think it's too soon to say tha this one will succeed. Heck, Aubergine was a GREAT restaurant in that same exact space and didn't make it. What does that tell you?
I don't think 555 has even matched Aubergine's longevity yet.
P.S. When will you go someplace NEW??
Posted by M.O.T.S.
October 11, 2005 10:00 AM
The descriptions here are superb. If I hadn't just finished a late breakfast, I'd be hungry for lunch already.
Do you know if they serve dessert only? My husband and I were trying to think of a place close to the movies to have dessert last weekend. 555 would be the perfect option next time if they'll seat us.
~Jes
Posted by
October 11, 2005 10:27 AM
I'd say that it's rather easy for a restaurant's success to be tied to its quality. Other than junk food places, junk doesn't win out unless it's for junk sake.
I wrote about it, though not for the first time, because it was new and fresh to me, having not been there for a while and wanted to pass on my good experiences. I'm so sorry if I wasn't up to your standards, whatever dubious level they might be. Perhaps it would be best to comment on my comments rather than pick bones up off the floor for the sake of spewing...
Posted by
John GoldenOctober 11, 2005 11:25 AM
You didn't like Aubergine?
Quality is part of success, but it certainly doesn't ensure it.
And thank you for apologizing, that's refreshing.
Posted by E.M.O.T.S.
October 11, 2005 02:01 PM
Jes -
I've found that most restaurants in town are strangely averse to dessert-only dining. We've gone in to a couple places and said we just wanted to get dessert and maybe a glass of wine. They look at you kind of funny and then usually seat you at the bar, even though we usually try to go later (9pm) if we're just getting dessert and the rooms are usually starting to empty by that point.
On a side note, did anyone read the "readers comments" under N.L. English's column this last Sunday? Apparantly she dissed Katahdin a couple weeks ago (I was out of town that weekend), but one person wrote that they were tired of English "tearing apart every good restaurant" in her reviews. I almost couldn't stop laughing as it seems to me that almost any restaurant in the history of the Taste & Tell column has gotten a free pass, and nary a genuinely harsh word is ever spoken.
Just imagine the outrage if John's Cole Farms review had hit the Sunday Telegram!!! Ha!!
Posted by
JillOctober 11, 2005 02:09 PM
David's always seems accomodating to me for a late night dessert and wine/cocktail.
Posted by C. Solman
October 11, 2005 03:07 PM
Jill, I hear you. We were actually turned away from Walter's once when we said we wanted dessert. It was later in the evening, the restaurant was not full, and I was shocked. All I could think was we should have said nothing, looked at the menu, then just said, "Actually, I think I'll just have dessert and coffee."
I hate being punished for being honest.
I wouldn't mind sitting at the bar, and I understand that waitstaff don't want dessert-only people taking up tables that could feed a dinner party.
But if you can't spare a two-top at 9:15, then I won't be back for dinner anytime soon.
Are there any restauranteurs who can chime in and explain this aversion?
~Jesilu
Posted by
October 11, 2005 03:53 PM
What we need therefore is a good old-fashioned cafe, where service of demi tasse and pastry is the norm. Arabica should beef up its pastry menu and other coffee houses, too.
Posted by
John GoldenOctober 11, 2005 04:21 PM
Oh Lord, if Arabica would serve a variety of desserts and be open on the weekend (normal waking hours, that is), I'd be there in a heartbeat.
Please, John, can you lean on them?!
~Jes
Posted by
October 11, 2005 04:45 PM
We could use a place like Serendipity III on the east side of Manhattan, only less hyped and pretentious. A place where a couple or a family could go on a cold Saturday night in January and a huge, fancy hot chocolate and a slice of pie or cake. Oh and what about a crepe shop! A really good crepe shop, serving both savory and sweet crepes! Man I could spend many a winter's night with a sweet crepe and a hot cocoa...
Posted by
JillOctober 11, 2005 04:49 PM
Owners and managers have specific goals they need to reach. If they think they can sell two seats apps, entrees, dessert and drinks,($40-80 per person in many restaurants) they would much prefer this over just desserts and coffee (maybe drinks)totalling less than $20 per person. The average check for the seat is much higher in the case of a full meal and there is only so much time in one evening to sell that seat, maybe 2 or 3 times max per night and mostly likely only twice in your better restaurants as people tend to spend a much longer time eating. On the other hand, giving up revenue in the hopes of more can be foolish as well. "Bird in the hand...".
Developing a dessert restaurant is something I have been contemplating for a while. With real estate so high, there may not be enough business generated to keep it going successfully. I continue to develop this plan however.
Posted by Restaurateur
October 11, 2005 05:23 PM
I can completely understand that a restaurant would rather serve a meal than just a dessert, which is why I would never go into a busy restaurant at 7pm and just get dessert. However, if it's 9pm and the place is half empty, I don't see the harm in letting someone linger over a dessert and a cappucino at a table.
Actually all this dessert talk has got me thinking about stopping at Duckfat after work. I could go for a sweet panini and a french press coffee. Actually, if Duckfat added one or two more sweet items to their menu and stayed open an hour later, it would kind of fit my mold of a good dessert restaurant.
Posted by
JillOctober 11, 2005 05:41 PM
fyi, the link at the top of the article is wrong; it should be to "fivefifty-five.com" (rather "than five-fiftyfive.com").
Posted by rw
October 11, 2005 06:15 PM
I completely agree with your review of 555. It is terrific! We went there a few weeks ago for a fabulous meal to celebrate my birthday. I had a divine pork entree, served with tamale, pazole, and spinach. It was the most imaginative preparation of pork I've had in a long time. My starter was a delicious salad featuring local heirloom tomatoes. We completed our meal with some cheese that was accompanied by honey comb - surprisingly perfect combination. We had been there once before, a long time ago, but had forgotten about it. Your praise of the restaurant was what got us back there and we'll return again soon. Thank you for reminding us about this wonderful gem that is in such a forgetful location.
Posted by
October 11, 2005 07:13 PM
mmmmm, crepes and hot cocoa.
A good crepe is so easy to make and yet not easy to find. How is this possible in our French-influenced State O Maine?
Restauranteur -- please keep us posted!
~Jes
Posted by
October 12, 2005 11:40 AM
I go to Uffa! all the time for dessert.
You can have dessert or wine and cheese and they don't stick you at the bar. They had an ad in the Metro all summer promoting dessert tables. Plus their chocolate is sooooooooo good!!!!
They have crepes too.
Posted by Heidi
October 12, 2005 12:00 PM
OK, I have contemplated starting a crepe restaurant before. I make a damn good crepe, if I do say so myself. Now I have a reason to!
BTW, if you're ever in Northampton, Mass., there's a great crepe place called Cafe Casablanca.
And also BTW: Anyone here interested in getting together for dinner one night to eat, drink and be merry? A meeting of the foodies?
Anyone?
Posted by
ColleenOctober 12, 2005 03:01 PM
Gee Colleen, sounds like a good idea, though sort of strangers on a train, don't you think?
Posted by
John GoldenOctober 12, 2005 03:25 PM
I like to eat and drink.
~Jes
Posted by
October 12, 2005 03:27 PM
LOL. My review of Colleen's post made me rethink my reply.
I did not intentionally leave out "be merry."
I like to do that, too.
~Jes
Posted by
October 12, 2005 03:29 PM
Can we name this foodie club?
Posted by Something To Chew On
October 12, 2005 03:59 PM
Golden's Grub Club?
Posted by eMTee
October 12, 2005 04:01 PM
hi- i would just like to say that we both welcome and encourage people coming to the restaurant just for desserts! we actually have quite a few people who do that, especially with our pastry chef. it really should not matter what you intend to order, a customer is a customer and should be treated with equal respect and graciousness whether they spend $100 or $10! By the way John- you were a VERY GOOD sport about your table the other night, i am just glad we were able to get you more comfortable!!! thanks, michelle corry-five fifty-five
Posted by
michelle corryOctober 12, 2005 04:25 PM
I'd be game for a night of food...
Posted by Shannon
October 12, 2005 07:01 PM
OK, wanna throw out dates and a place?
I'm generally good for any weeknight except Wednesdays, because I have to get up at an ungodly hour on Thursdays.
I for one would prefer to go somewhere kind of affordable. A good BBQ joint or something like that maybe? One of the many new ethnic places? Is Portland the most logical location?
Ain't nothing wrong with strangers on a train, John. I used to do this all the time with people I knew through blogs and forums at my old site. Always good to put faces with names!
Posted by
ColleenOctober 14, 2005 09:02 AM
Can we get hammered? Once hammered, can we then tell you how good you smell?
If I have to ask, does that mean I'm not invited?
Brett Weir -- will you make it?
Posted by Golden's Grub Club Member
October 14, 2005 12:30 PM
Hammered? If you're not driving and don't have a tendency to get violent, start hugging inappropriately, disrobe or anything weird like that, then it's your dime and headache, I guess.
Comments about me smelling good are always welcome unless you're a scary man in Hannaford. Or a scary man (heck, and a scary woman) anywhere, really.
Posted by
ColleenOctober 14, 2005 12:35 PM
how about Honey's place?
Posted by shannon
October 19, 2005 03:06 PM
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