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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
November 08, 2005
A Tall Tale of Two Cities

If I were airlifted to Des Moines, Iowa, to dissert on that city’s culinary heritage and agricultural health and history (of which I knew nothing) I would embark on steady research and objectivity often called truth in reporting.

Ah, but the new journalism is all about point of view these days as though the war in Iraq were being covered by a theatre critic, and the lowly occupation of food reporting was mere fiction.

The trouble is we’re supposed to believe what we read in print.

Such was my reaction after contemplating the article “Two Portlands” in last week’s New York Times Sunday Magazine called “T, ” or otherwise known as The New York Times Style Magazine. The article was meant to compare two disparate coasts with contrasting cities of the same name that offer a rich revelation of gastronomic clarities.

In other words, you can eat real well in Portland, Oregon, or Portland, Maine

Who knew?

As I read on I then learned that I live in a “blue collar coastal town,” whose waterfront shops (Commercial Street) have “a Disney feel.” Where are all the rides?

Yes, the working waterfront, by design, is gritty. But I’m one of those sorts who think the time has come to retrofit some of those shacks that others think cute. But that’s another story.

Of course Portland has its share of seedy elements. But have you been to Baltimore recently or above 96th Street in Manhattan?

My first impression of Portland was how such a city that's smaller than most American towns has so much to offer to concisely.

So we keep our waterfront rough and tumble out of nostalgia, yet it's flanked by a snappy Old Port, architecturally significant neighborhoods, a world-class art museum and bordered by seaside suburbs that sparkle from the reflection of the Atlantic and Casco Bay waters.

Moving on the author marveled at how the city’s top restaurants were able to turn out wonderful fare and to make do in a tough environment where “…restaurants that use local ingredients from hardscrabble farms with Yankee ingenuity…”

This seemed to suggest that our produce is grown on sad, dusty plots and hurled to town in covered wagons from musty Millinocket rock farms for the amusement of clever chefs.

Yankee ingenuity? Didn’t that disappear with the honorable Mrs. Fiske?

The rest of the piece improved somewhat as the writer concentrated on of Portland’s finer dining spots and personalities. The usual suspects got honorable mention, like Fore Street, Sam Hayward and Hugo’s.

What happened to Back Bay Grill--which predates Fore Street as the father of fine dining in Portland--or Cinque Terre, 555 and others is if they served Chop Suey?

On a brighter note the author refers to such upscale emporiums as Browne Trading and Holly Stone.

Who?

Holly Stone?

Who knew that a “quick walk to Pleasant Street will bring you to Holly Stone, with its tastefully edited tabletop items, decorative accessories and clothing.”

I can’t wait to see the bags.

After that revelation we were flung new assaults--this time on the Portland Public Market, “a grand space in a sad part of town.”

Finally we learn from the author that “While Portland has certainly refined its taste [get this], Rob Evans isn’t sure people are ready for Desjarlais’ [Bandol] taste for innards...” as opposed to Hugo’s effulgent pork belly?

Talk about the pot calling the kettle black or was it, as I suspect, the reporter’s nod to literary license as a clever segue to the other Portland? Finally.

Posted by John Golden at 09:30 AM

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Comments

Funny that you took the Disney reference to mean gritty. I read it completely differently; I thought she was saying it was too touristy in a squeaky Disney way, which I found confusing. Now I want to ask her what the heck she meant!

Beyond the cheesy "hardscrabble" and "Yankee ingenuity" references, I wasn't as bothered by the piece as you seemed to be. It was a shame though, that of the places she hightlighted, so many of them are owned or operated by the same people.

Oh, and the Holly Stone reference was sort of strange, I agree. I'd hardly consider it a foodie store. They do have cute stuff, though.

Posted by Colleen
November 8, 2005 09:43 AM

Last year articles about Portland seemed to crop up once a week in the NYT. I guess it was time for another viewpoint. Speaking of which, I thought the other Portland sounded really uninteresting and I always thought it was supposed to be cool.

Posted by
November 8, 2005 10:16 AM

Altho I love living in this Portland, I don't think it can hold a candle to the other Portland, where I am lucky enough to have family. Portland, OR is just big enough to have the sophistication, shopping, street life and culture in bigger doses than we do, and it is incredibly beautiful. I am not a foodie, so am not insulted by the comparisons. I've eaten well in both cities, altho must admit Fore Street has always underwhelmed me. Instead of being insulted, be glad the NY Times is promoting our Portland in any way; we need the tourists and their money.

Posted by Anne
November 8, 2005 10:36 AM

interesting. Yes, Portland is a tiny place, and the world is so large.

Posted by
November 8, 2005 11:04 AM

Etiquette question: is it acceptable to criticize what you are served while you are seated at the establishment, or do you complement what is good and say nothing on the rest? That is intended as an excuse for being in gracious to waiters etc. Also would you cut the tip?

Posted by Chris
November 8, 2005 11:11 AM

It sounds to me like a slightly in-depth tourist's point of view, which is probably the best you can do not being from a town or knowing a variety of people in it.

I rarely read an article about a place that I know well and think they got it right, whether it's a restaurant or a city.

~Jes

Posted by
November 8, 2005 12:45 PM

Portland is a small city in a very small state. Portland Oregon should be compared to Boston, a city of comparable size. Portland, Maine should be compared to a city the same size. Approximately 65,000 people.

Posted by Albert Russo
November 8, 2005 03:18 PM

I am from New York and was much annoyed by the Times' haughty view of Portland. Disneyland? Has the author been to South Street Seaport? All the buildings were re-bricked during the renovation in 1970s and 80s, ruining 200 years of beautiful Flemish and English bond brick work.

Personally, I like the juxtaposition of the fish companies with their hardworking people and boats and the trendy restaurants and shops. It is good to remember where your food comes from and the dangerous work fishermen perform to get it. New York lost touch with its working harbor a long time ago.

My wife and I visit Maine every few years, and usually stay a few days in Portland. We have watched the transformation of a city escaping hard times into a fun, interesting and lovely place to visit. We have enjoyed some wonderful times and meals in Portland. One of our favorites is Katahdin, tucked away in what had been a tavern across the street from the long gone bus depot. Wonderful food and wine with terrific service.

We never miss Becky's. One night as we arrived for dinner, we watched a local fishmonger unload three 5-gallon buckets of scallops at Becky's back door. As we walked in, a new fried scallop special was added to the board. They were the sweetest, most succulent scallops we ever had. It doesn't get any better than that.

Peter Geiger

Posted by Peter Geiger
November 8, 2005 05:53 PM

Chris -- the servers bring your food, they don't cook it. If you don't like the food feel free to mention it to your server or the manager, but for heaven's sake, don't lessen the tip! These poor people are making three dollars an hour to wait on you!

Posted by Greer
November 8, 2005 08:54 PM

Portland is closer to sows ear than a silk purse. The city is sundering at the crossroads. It can step up and revitalize itself or continue the road of self apathy until it ends up obdurate and scary.

Posted by J Lansing
November 12, 2005 12:37 PM

A SOWS EAR? ouch..what does that make me- I was born here? ha! Comparing Portland Maine to "that other one", is like comparing two people named john smith who have nothing in common other than their names being the same. There are no other signifigant similarities that I know of. Personally, I couldn't care less what some NY Times writer or anyone else for that matter thinks of my city. It happens to be my home and I love it.

Posted by John
November 12, 2005 02:54 PM

went to caiola's in the west end. great new restuarant, abbey harmon the chef formerly of street and company owns it. It blows away most restaurant places in portland and is very fairly priced. i've had dinner there twice this week and am going back soon!

Posted by nick
November 19, 2005 08:57 AM

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