November 19, 2005
The Comforts of Comfort Food
Before Caiola’s Restaurant opened last week—quietly, without fanfare-- I had heard that it was going to be serving Mediterranean style fare. I thought, what, yet another restaurant mating fish with cous cous, a world of legumes and grains sending mashed potatoes to the antediluvian heap?
Not that I have anything against the notion of twisting the Ligurian pepper pot into an American rendition of fish stew. After all Mediterranean cooking is far healthier for us. No butter, lots of olive oil, grains, etcetera, etcetera.
Caiola’s (remember it’s “a” before “i” and don’t forget the “o” when you’re dialing up Miss Information for the number) is the blessed brainchild of Abby Harmon, the former head chef at Street & Co., and her partner Lisa Viccaro. It’s located on Pine Street, next door to Aurora Foods. And there’s parking too. For the record the number is 772-1110
.
But as far as the instant mischief of gossip goes, Caiola’s is not a concoction of Mediterranean goodies.
We went there last night, barely able to get through the front door because this restaurant seems to have literally become an overnight sensation, approaching SRO status--not a bad thing when you’re starting a new venture.
I’ll say it right away. I loved Caiola’s (pronounced kay-o-las). Perhaps the misconception about what it would serve stems from Abby’s style at Street & Co.
As far as I could tell after having just one meal there (and I plan to go as often as I can), it’s really a menu of comfort food so deliciously and thoughtfully prepared, it’s worthy of opening a chain of them throughout the state so everyone can get a chance to go
As a neighborhood restaurant it’s nearly perfect. The group last night (some of them my neighbors on the West End) was a lively bunch of all ages and styles. Inside it felt like a block party with insiders and outsiders in reveling. Thankfully there wasn’t a baseball cap in sight, and perhaps only a sneaker or two if one cared to study the floor.
Certainly the large square bar in the middle of this finely wrought cozy dining room performs a vital function—as a place to wait for a table, have a drink or even to eat at the bar.
While the space was under renovation, I began to worry when I saw the lace curtains installed, café length, on the front windows. Where did they find that fabric? I’m the first to admit, first impressions are often wrong.
Inside, however, is so warm and charming--plainly attractive décor, comfortable tables and chairs, little nooks and crannies all about the room that seats fewer than 40. Yet I could have sworn there was a roaring fire in the fireplace, but there isn’t one.
There’s a class of restaurant in Portland that appeals to those of us who live here and those who visit: Back Bay Grill, Fore Street, Five Fifty-Five, Cinque Terre, Café Uffa, Rachel’s, Bandol, Hugo’s--the core of the dining establishment in this city. They’re all different and wonderful. They offer diversity of choice that helps make this tiny city seem so big.
Actually, if I can digress a bit, I’m constantly surprised by the quality of restaurants one encounters throughout the sate. Yesterday, for example, I was in Camden for the day and stopped into a little joint on Main Street for lunch called South by Southwest that served some of the best Tex Mex food I’ve had in a long while. Last week I was in Bar Harbor to enjoy an incredible Latin-inspired repast at Havana’s, the owners of which have their own little Down East dining kingdom, from Winter Harbor to Bar Harbor. Before that I found myself in Ogunquit, quieter than a ghost town—at least midweek—but enjoyed a very pleasant dinner at Five-O on Shore Road. And perhaps the best treat of the week was the James Beard dinner at Five Fifty Five, tended to by 555’s Stephen Corry who had a helper in the kitchen by the name of Sam Hayward (Fore Street, as if you didn’t know). What a feast it was. The best dish for me was the organic rock hen (from the fabulous Sumner Valley Farm) with foie gras, organic apple and brioche stuffing. . .it should become a staple at 555. But that’s another story.
So what is Caiola’s?
Firstly, it’s the last name of one of the owner’s family member. So it means nothing to any of us other than as a tag to identify.
Naming a restaurant right the first time is vital. Sometimes it’s a simple notion. Think Back Bay Grill. Enough said.
Until I went there, though, Caiola’s struck me as a difficult name: hard to pronounce, and no doubt it will be a chore to get the number from the speech recognition rigors of 411.
The trend in restaurant names these days—and perhaps it’s always been—is to play with the street address or family name. Natalie’s in Camden is the owner’s daughter’s name. Fore Street, 555 (as in Congress), No. 9 Park (as in 9 Park Street), the 21 Club (as in 21 East 52nd Street) all inspired by address.
Well, Caiola’s it is. In time it will mean nothing other than the moniker for a great restaurant that you’ll go to over and over.
What makes it so good? Offered last night were such first courses as Mushroom and Black Barley Soup; Caesar Salad with fried spicy oysters, Duck and Flageolet bean stew; Chicken Liver pate.
The header for the entrée list was a bold interpretation of a burger called Pop’s Burger (no doubt someone’s father) with bacon, cheddar cheese, grilled onions and homemade Tater Tots the size of billiard balls. Our waitress told us these taters were incredible.
There was also Chicken Cacciatore with sausage served over Orecchiette; Grilled Sirloin with roasted squash and kale; Bouillabaisse; Macaroni and Cheese with roasted tomatoes; Paella with grilled chicken, chorizo and shellfish. And a vegetarian dish of Brussels sprouts and braised cabbage with a roasted squash and potato cake.
When I first studied the menu I was a bit nonplussed. It seemed so small, not well rounded in terms of offerings. But I was totally wrong. The menu covers most food groups succinctly: fish, beef, poultry and vegetables. And I imagine the selections will grow over time. After all, the restaurant is only a week old.
I would like to see such dishes as roast chicken, lamb stew, or even a dead ringer for the best meat loaf ever.
However the choices develop, Caiolas will be, if not already, the haute monde of comfort food in Portland.
I started off with the duck and flageolet bean stew. This was really a very rich soup, which I might not have ordered had I realized that since my main course was so rich. Nonetheless the flavors were perfect, full and zesty and brilliantly orchestrated with essence and style.
My dinner mate began with the Chicken live pate. It is presented as a beautifully burnished round the size and shape of a golf ball. Spread on rounds of crostini, it tantalized with a rush of flavors of brandy, butter and onions.
An entree special last night was Finnan Haddie in a traditional cream sauce. The fish was the perfect piece of haddock that came from a smoker in Deer Isle, probably from one of the purveyors that abound in Stonington. It was classically good. Served with mashed potatoes with Brussels sprouts and onions, it was the apogee of New England home cooking.
Until I tried my dish.
The Chicken Cacciatore, which I haven’t had in years, was a revelation. I’ve not really ever cared about the dish—not the stuff of which my dreams are made. But it was fabulous. The tomato sauce was rich and powerful, an excursion to an old dish that tasted wonderfully fresh and delicious. The chicken had lots of flavor, and though I’m not a big pasta fan, the little half moons of Orecchiette were a perfect base.
Indeed we have in our midst a place at last that takes the plain complexities of home-style cooking to a new and better level. My dinner last night was like going to a private house of a very good cook. In some ways Five Fifty Five qualifies, as does Uffa and Fore Street. But their menus are taken to the next level of culinary form, more purposely ambitious fare.
Caiola’s is delicious simplicity. At least that was my reaction.
Perhaps the cooking at Caiola’s is Abby Harmon’s reinterpretation of her years at Street & Co. However the menu develops it will all be good.
Oh, yes, let me mention dessert. The choices were all in keeping. There was a Ligurian style (see, there’s something Mediterranean after all) lemon and olive oil cake with lemon gelato; homemade chocolate pudding with cinnamon sabayon; Indian pudding with buttermilk ice ream; a cookie plate with delights like almond biscotti, mini cannoli, chocolate cream wafers, Madelines and tortoni and hot chocolate with house made marshmallows.
We had the olive oil cake and the Indian pudding. They were as good and as pleasing as everything else. The Indian pudding was flawlessly authentic.
In a city with so many wonderful restaurants, it’s exciting when a new one arrives. After all, in a region of 250,000, I there’s always room for at least one more.
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WOW ~ Sounds amazing. Even though it's 10am I'm pining for dinner!!!
Posted by
JillNovember 19, 2005 10:10 AM
Sounds wonderful! Lets hope that they dont fall into the "Portland" trap of keeping hours that fluctuate with the crowds. Tried to go to Uffa last weekend on Saturday-called at 8:45, was told they serve until 9:30, checked the Web site, 9:30, walked in at 9:05 and was greated with "Im sorry but were through serving for the evening". Was the staff just that tired that they couldnt finish the evening?
At any rate, Best of luck to them!
Posted by
shawnNovember 19, 2005 12:25 PM
I had dinner twice last week and it was great. when i first heard about it my reaction was great another tiny restuarant in portland that serves average food. well, it is small but the food is excellent. I actually went back a 3rd time last night and was turned away with no reservations. folks get there quick before anymore word get out because its going to be difficult to get in. It tool "comfort food" to another level. I have had the burger,mac and cheese and chochlate pudding all some of the best of had. Too many restuants skimp on the small details caiola's does not and it's the attention to detail that makes this work. You won't find any hannaford hamburger rolls or mccains tater tots here that many restaraunts try to pass for acceptable fare. everything is homemade and excellent. It makes you wonder how so many restaurants screw up what on the surface seems so easy. I think they go by thet theory " don't sweat the small stuff" while Caiola's not only sweats it; it perfects it.
Posted by ncik
November 19, 2005 05:31 PM
To think we had these 2 wonderful women in our home in Florida for Thanksgiving a year ago.One can only imagine the meal! When only a typical oven baked turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, and stuffing was expected and would have adequately sufficed, what actually graced our plates was nothing less than a spectacular presentation of those same foods that were expected, yet with a flare that only Abby can pull off!! The ingredients of which seemed so simple (we saw the food in our refidgerator after Abby bought it!!)were prepared in such a way that we realized that a great meal has very little to do with the food, and everything to do with the chef, which in this case is a creator.(Those Tater Tots we hear should be patented!) To us, the thanksgiving meal prepared by Abby Harmon at our home, and served by her partner Lisa Vaccaro along with the wine, guaranteed 1 thing: that we know where we dine when we vacation to Maine each year, provided that there is room to get us in!!!!!!!! GOOD LUCK TO BOTH OF YOU!!!!!There is no doubt of your success!!
Posted by
The Schultz FamilyNovember 19, 2005 05:38 PM
I also went to Caiola's last night, very much on a whim, as a treat for having a horrible day working in another kitchen in town. I also went by myself, which is very daunting to some, but watching the constant flow of people in and out of the restaurant provided enough entertainment and while there were no hats, there were more than a few tats when I was there early on.
I first have to say that I am an acquaintance of Abbys and had the pleasure of being able to stop by over the summer and see the evolution of the space. Abby, her partner and a team, that would rival any “extreme” home makeover show, turned a former flower shop into a home. The tones, accessories and lighting all bring comfort when you step over the threshold. I am not one to drink, but felt so warm and relaxed that I ordered a very nice glass of Merlot and cozied up to the bar. While the front door never seemed to stop opening, the atmosphere never felt frantic. A week into service and it seemed like everyone knew their part in the dance.
Having mentioned that I am also a cook, I constantly find myself analyzing every bite of food I consume. I also hold high expectations, even more so for those that I know and/or work with. Also, because I do not have a larger five figure income, if I’m going to splurge, I better get my money’s worth. Thankfully, all requirements were met and, on some level, even exceeded.
I had been told that the Caesar Salad w/spicy fried oysters was amazing, but not being one to love that salad, I asked the bartender for the oysters, minus the greens. He said it would be no problem and ten minutes later I was greeted with a plate of nearly a dozen fried oysters in a perfectly seasoned crust with a side of aioli. They were perfect. No extra grease lingered on the plate and the ‘spicy’ hit towards the back of the tongue without overwhelming the delicateness of the oysters.
The bartender also brought some locally baked bread with a side of dill butter. I’m not a fan of dill, but had I consumed two more glasses of wine, I would have been eating the butter with my spoon.
As John mentioned, the menu is filled with comfort foods. An up scale version of Mac and Cheese, which came with roasted tomatoes on the side looked gorgeous as it was placed in front of a fellow diner. The hamburger was raved about to me and I ended up bringing one home for my partner and, while it got a little dry while waiting for her, it was wonderful. The beef is grass fed and hand ground on site. The tater tots were worthy of the praise that John heard from the waitress.
For an entrée, I had the steak with balsamic butter with roasted squash(I forget which kind) and curly kale with shallots. It was absolutely flawless. The house made stuffing that came with the squash was finished quickly and I almost wished I had ordered another side of it.
I decided to also grab a dessert on the way out and went with the house made chocolate pudding. The presentation was simple and beautiful. On top, was scattered chocolate bits coated in a shell that made them resemble pebbles.
All in all, Caiola’s, without thought, is my top restaurant choice in Portland. I don’t think the comfort of it all will be rivaled for some time.
Posted by S.
November 19, 2005 05:42 PM
Sounds excellent! Could someone give us some insight into the prices?
Posted by
GretchenNovember 21, 2005 11:24 AM
Prices are moderate. Appetizers are mostly $7 and entrees are $12.95 for the burger to $23 for the paella, others are around 15-16
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 21, 2005 11:28 AM
And what do you have against those who wear baeball caps and sneakers. Are you saying those who wear such things can not enjoy good food. Or is good food above those who like caps and sneakers
Posted by
NickNovember 21, 2005 12:29 PM
I think Caiola's is the perfect place for someone w/a baseball cap and sneakers. I would say most were dressed in the casual style.
Posted by S.
November 21, 2005 12:52 PM
This is perfect timing for a birthday dinner!
Thanks for the idea and the inspiration to try a new place -- it sounds amazing!
~Jes
Posted by
November 21, 2005 04:15 PM
From Emilypost.com:
Q. I know back in the day, it was bad manners for a man to wear a hat (baseball cap) to the table. My grown sons wear them all the time and my husband is forever getting upset if they wear their hats to the table. If we have a formal dinner, such as holidays, they always remove them. Is it now acceptable for them to wear their hats to the table for casual meals?
A. No, it is not. Basically, hats are removed when going indoors as a measure of respect. Therefore, caps and hats should be removed when entering a home (which includes while eating at the table), when entering a place of religion, or when going to a restaurant. When entering a store or other "public area" like a train station, the hat or cap may remain on. This applies to baseball caps worn by men or women. Hats and caps are always removed for the Pledge of Allegiance or the National Anthem.
Women's hats that are part of their ensembles and therefore fashion accessories may be worn indoors, including at a restaurant table, etc. If they are large-brimmed, they should be removed in a theater or other place where they block the vision of the person behind. Aside from garden parties and formal teas where hats are often left on, women generally remove their hats when dinning in someone's home.
The guidelines for wearing of hats by men and women are still an important part of our manners today. Hat traditions and manners may have originated in medieval times when knights lifted their face guard to show who they were, or in the days of the cowboys when a hat was lifted and removed to show there was no weapon hidden underneath. It became a sign of respect to others that has always remained.
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Copyright © 2003 The Emily Post Institute, Inc. 444 South Union Street, Burlington, VT 05401
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Posted by Ghost of Emily Post
November 21, 2005 04:44 PM
The thing is baseball caps on men are very much a fashion statement, an ensemble to complete a look. Still, guys who wear their caps in a restaurant where most everyone else has made an effort to dress better is just plain tacky.
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 21, 2005 05:15 PM
And Nick, what do you have against question marks?
I agree that baseball caps are too casual for dining out, and jeans are for the most part, as well (although in terms of jeans I think it's more about not looking messy).
Posted by
GretchenNovember 22, 2005 09:31 AM
I am with Nick. While wearing baseball caps may be a vice, it seems a fairly benign one. Far worse to criticize for punctuation. Does Caiola's have a dress code? As an aside: I ordered the bouillabaisse, which was not good.
Posted by
Derek ThomasNovember 22, 2005 01:33 PM
So Nick's saying that John has something again baseball caps and sneakers, and I'm saying he has something again punctuation--what's wrong with that?
True, wearing a baseball cap indoors won't hurt anyone, but it just seems rude. I know that appearances aren't everything, but it would be nice to maintain some sense of refinement in an upscale restaurant. I haven't been to this restaurant yet, so I'm not familiar with the decor, but when going to a new restaurant I always air on the side of caution with regards to dress until I know for sure.
Posted by
GretchenNovember 22, 2005 03:25 PM
By the way, I have never before had bouillabaisse (am I sheltered?)--so this is not the place to try it, eh?
Posted by
GretchenNovember 22, 2005 03:39 PM
I'm missing the thread here about punctuation. Did I run afoul somewhere? Did I leave out a comma, semicolon, period, question mark or exclamation? Just curious.
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 23, 2005 07:21 AM
I am a bit of a stickler for punctuation (it serves a very important purpose!) Nick questioned your attitude toward people who wear baseball caps and sneakers; I then questioned his aversion to question marks. Just a little tit for tat exchange going on!
Posted by
GretchenNovember 23, 2005 08:19 AM
Ah, OK. "Whew."
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 23, 2005 02:02 PM
Well, John, because you asked, let's have a look at your first paragraph:
-------------------------------------
Before Caiola’s Restaurant opened last week—quietly, without fanfare-- I had heard that it was going to be serving Mediterranean style fare. I thought, what, yet another restaurant mating fish with cous cous, a world of legumes and grains sending mashed potatoes to the antediluvian heap?
------------------------------
First sentence: Em dash should be flush to the words on both sides.
First sentence: Need a hyphen between "Mediterranean" and "style."
Second sentence: You should have quotation marks encapsulating your thought: I thought, "What, yet another....antediluvian heap?"
As you wrote it, the lack of quotation marks and the lowercase "what" indicates that you're unsure of what you thought. And we all know that never happens.
Oh, and happy Thanksgiving!
Posted by
Brett WeirNovember 23, 2005 03:11 PM
2 things:
1. I am the nick the has written several times in the past. please don't confuse me with the gentlemen above who for some reason also chose nick as his screen name. i do not ever condone wearing a cap to a good restuarant. it's low class and disrespectful to those around you.
2. Brett Weir? what a joke this guy is. He's really not even annoying to me anymore his stupid antics are just tiresome. Brett, get some new material you keep repeating the same thing over and over and over and over again.
Posted by nick
November 24, 2005 09:09 AM
Brett, when it comes to grammar and style usage, you're just an old fart. I agree about the "em" dashes, but it was just one of those flukes of the keyboard. Annoying, isn't it?
Nowadays, especially in newspapers and magazines, style rules are relaxed, and I I follow the more relaxed style when it comes to putting a hyphen(which I didn't) between Mediterranean and and style. In fact, in this useless little note to you, which I probably shouldn't bother to answer, the usage of those two words should be set in italics, but there's no application method in this comments section to do so. Concerning putting my "thought" in quotes, capping the first word of the interpolation is sufficient enough.
My advice is this: If you don't like what you see here--and feel mortally offended--then then you should go elsewhere--forever.
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 25, 2005 05:37 PM
John,
Ewe shore no howl too right.
Is that better?
Posted by
Brett WeirNovember 27, 2005 05:31 PM
Would love some info on menu prices in your reviews. Any place that seems inappropriate for baseball caps and sneakers gets my vote! It seems a little sophistication just kills some folks.
Posted by Anne
November 28, 2005 10:40 AM
I will try to include some prices. But when it exists, I do give the restaurant's website information, and you can go to the site and look at the menus.
Posted by
John GoldenNovember 28, 2005 03:48 PM
I'll be there Friday night -- can't wait!
Posted by Jes
November 29, 2005 11:43 AM
Ok, enough gibberish about baseball caps and punctuation...some people have way too much time on their hands. As for the restaurant...the food is great, the prices are reasonable and the service is friendly and professional. My only gripe is that they need more main course choices on the menu.
Posted by
MikeNovember 29, 2005 12:35 PM
We went there the evening before Thanksgiving. Overall, we had a great time. The escargots were amazing, and we enjoyed our entrees. Service was great, atmosphere, lovely. Only complaint - seemed to us that the vegetable sides (we had roasted tomatoes and an arugula salad that came w/ the macaroni and cheese) were both overly salty.
Will go back.
Posted by
jNovember 30, 2005 10:38 AM
I cannot wait to try Caiola's! I have known Ab since I was 7 yrs old. I will be in Maine soon...Hope I can get a reservation.
ps. Ab and Lisa save me a seat/Rosie John
Posted by
amy r silverzweigDecember 1, 2005 12:07 PM
Can anyone let me know if they have a couple vegetarian and fish dishes on the menue? I'm going with two fish-eating vegetarians and I want to make sure that there are at least 2-3 options to choose from. Thanks!
Posted by van
December 8, 2005 10:52 AM
When I went last weekend, they had a fish special and a seasonal veggie plate (very filling and quite good).
I don't recall other options, but I bet they'd modify something for your friends. Also, they had some really nice vegetarian appetizers that you could put together to make a nice meal.
Posted by Jes
December 8, 2005 12:36 PM
I have been at the restaurant several times with my wife , my friends and our family and have enjoyed the food, the wine and the atmoshere. Not only is every entree great but I truly enjoy trying the appetizers. But so much for the food , no business can be successful without great people. From the front to the back everyone makes you so happy to be there. I work a very stressfull job and it is so relaxing to have a night out at Caiola's. I never want to leave! Thank you Caiola's!!
Posted by Erwin
March 22, 2006 08:39 PM
We drove all the way to Portland Maine from Western MA to celebrate my Birthday dinner at Caiola's over labor day weekend. The food, the service, the atmosphere... Wow! It was worth the drive, and then some. If you get a chance to go... sit back and relax... you're in for a treat.
Posted by
LisaSeptember 19, 2006 03:28 PM
We were a party of four that had dinner at Caiola's on Saturday night. For each of us it was our first visit. We waited 15 minutes for our reserved table. While we waited, we were encouraged to taste a variety of house wines prior to choosing a bottle and then later were charged for the samples, which we found surprising. Our wine glasses had the distinct odor of the commercial reastaurant dishwasher and tainted the wine. Our waitress was stone cold and when we asked for olive oil (for our bread) she asked "What for?" We also requested an impromptu olive plate and were told they didn't have olives. There were later olives on the antipasti plate. I ordered an Orichietti Pasta with Pork Sauce, which turned out to be just pasta and meat sauce that tasted right out of a jar. In the end, not one member of our group was satisfied with their meal or the price we paid for it, about $50 per person. Caiola's does have a nice atmosphere, but that only takes a restaurant so far. We do not plan to return, and regretted the price we paid for an overall far below average dining experience.
Posted by Portland Customer
November 21, 2006 04:42 PM
Wow I am shocked at the previous comments. I try dishes at Caiolas that I would never try elsewhere because I know with Abby coooking I will never be dissapointed. I have ordered something different on every visit and look forward to many more delicious meals. Our college age son finally got to experience Caiolas last week while home for the holidays and even he was on the phone as soon as we left telling his friends about the amazing meal he had just had. I have brought everyone one I know to this restaurant to share the fabulous food, meet the friendly staff and enjoy the beautiful atmosphere. Anyone who goes is in for a real treat! We love it
Posted by
DianneJanuary 18, 2007 08:28 PM
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