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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
December 27, 2005
The Front Room

The Front Room should fit nicely into Portland’s roster of restaurants. In fact, it seems that every new restaurant that opens is hitting it right. Take Caiola’s, for example. Headed by chef Abby Harmon who made her mark for years at Street & Co, the establishment offers inventive fare in a wholly convivial atmosphere. It’s both a bustling neighborhood restaurant to a vastly loyal group of West Enders and a destination for others eager for new dining venues.

This seems to be the case at the Front Room. Its grand plan though is different from the competition. For one it‘s open for three meals a day, serving breakfast through dinner. This in itself is a great idea. It’s in the right neighborhood, the menu is well priced and the food is very well prepared.

Oowned by chef Harding Smith who made his mark at such venerable local names as Back Bay Grill and Mim’s, the kitchen is in good hands.

The prices, by standards, are very reasonable. Entrees at dinner tend to be no higher than $15 to $17. And the menu is devised around a world of comfort food, a much overused phrase at times, here a tasty repertoire of home cooking with a twist.

I’ve only been to the Front Room twice, once for lunch and once for dinner. In that time I’ve seen its strengths and experienced some of its weaknesses, which I hope will be fixed.

Let’s get to the bad part first. At dinner the service was so horrendous yet the place was so much fun that I didn’t mind so much the interminable intervals between meeting the waiter and meeting the food. I hope this condition is only temporary.

The place was packed literally to the rafters. Had I not gone for lunch earlier in the week it would have been hard to notice the very pleasing interior work and finishes that went into transforming this dead, forlorn space on Munjoy Hill into a very attractive room.

It has the proverbial open kitchen, an attractive bar and a mix of booths, banquettes and tables. Seating, once available, is fairly comfortable.

I’m not a fan of restaurants, however, that don’t have a reservation policy. Given that the Front Room has seating for about 36 diners, there’s bound to be a crush at the dinner hour.

Caiola’s, for instance, accepts reservations, well managed indeed, in a similar sized space, without a loss of spontaneity. I think it’s a mistake not to offer them at the Front Room. And I question whether I will become a frequent visitor—which I would because the food is delicious and ambiance is just right—because I’m one of those old-fashioned types who likes to know that a table is there for me when I arrive.

I think some restaurateurs believe that they create a high-octane atmosphere from a walk-in crowd. It makes people go to the bar, order a few drinks and create a superficial buzz.

Then, again, I understand the concept of wanting to have an eatery that seems open to the public at all times. Still, standing room only is not my idea of an easy night on the town.

As it turned out we waited for about 20 minutes—not terrible—for our table, which was the smallest one in the room. It’s one of many banquettes along the wall, right behind the entry podium, and wedged up against a beam that makes seating uncomfortable for anyone with a waist larger than 28.

The good news is that the food is fantastic. The dinner menu reads like specials from a high-brow diner. I love this sort of grub. It’s pleasing, it’s satisfying and if prepared well—which it is—it’s thoroughly enjoyable.

From the perfect tomato soup (it was perfect) to onion soup, fish chowder, crab cakes, salads, pasta (such as spaghetti ragu and parmesan), macaroni and cheese (it’s everywhere these days, and I don’t know why) to pleasing entrées like roast chicken with mashed potatoes and wilted spinach; meatloaf (not my favorite version here, too smoky from the bacon whereas I prefer a richer, southern style preparation); to braised short ribs, roast cod, scallops in mustard sauce, pork shops (delicious), steak and interesting sides like a small skillet of corn bread, risotto, roast potatoes--well you get the idea.

It’s all well prepared from what I’ve sampled so far. As I’ve said many times, what Portland has been lacking is restaurants that are casual but attractive and offer good, creatively prepared food in a fun setting. The Front Room is all that and more.

It could be a great place to go to on a Sunday night, for example, when many of the city’s restaurants are closed. The setting is cozy, convivial and amusing.

Beef up the wait staff, consider taking reservations (they do for five or more) and the Front Room should shine.


Posted by John Golden at 09:05 AM

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Comments

I have to agree that the food I've had there has been outstanding! I love the menu and the concept.

But the dinner service was, as you said, "horrendous". In my case, it wasn't just the considerable wait times, but the poor performance of the server. If it's really going to take 45 minutes between my app and entree, how about you offer me another drink?! Maybe a little more water! The front of the house could sink this place, I'm afraid.

As to the extended wait times, didn't we hear similiar complaints about Mims at their onset? Perhaps its a kitchen management issue? Maybe the waitstaff isn't trained to "fire" courses? You figure it would be awfully difficult for them to take and honor reservations at this pace.

But man, is the food good!

Posted by Sarah
December 27, 2005 11:16 AM

John, you neglected to give the address (I think). Where on Munjoy is it located?
Going to Caiola's for New Year's Eve with my parents and looking forward to it, based on your reviews.

Posted by Gretchen
December 27, 2005 03:10 PM

Caiola's is amazing as is the Front Room. Both new restaurants will surely be a shot in the arm to the more comfortable dining scene in Portland. Abby's touch is definately missed at Street and Co. as the food there has been dodgy, at best.

Posted by Gabe
December 27, 2005 03:24 PM


John, I would include Dogfish Cafe in my list of "comfort food" establishments. What say you?

Posted by Tom Hinkle
December 27, 2005 03:57 PM

I have to agree--the food I had the two times that I've been there was outstanding (and very reasonably priced). Really, really good food. So good, in fact, that the terrible service isn't going to stop me from going back again. I think from now on I'm going to avoid weekend evenings. I don't think the kitchen can handle a full house with any sort of expediency.

Posted by RDN
December 27, 2005 04:55 PM

I used to like Dogfish, but the food, which was always OK is fairly unremarkable.

Posted by John Golden
December 27, 2005 08:51 PM

My experience of the service at The Front Room was, contrary to reports here, fabulous. I suspect changes to Front of House quality are easily implemented and any issues are getting sorted out with other first-month-in-business bugs. To that end, the ventilation system could use some adjusting. While I enjoy the smells of food preparation, it's my mouth that should be watering, not my eyes; the room was quite hazy from kitchen smoke. My compliments to Chef Harding and Sarah for offering this gem to the Portland dining scene.

Posted by Thomas
December 28, 2005 09:09 AM

I agree about the smoke! Went there last night for dinner, and it was extremely smoky. Waitresses were opening windows, but it didn't help. Other comments--bar area is small, and there weren't any stools available while we waited for our table. Other option was to wait outside. Too cold! So, a reservation system may help to ease the crowds. I ordered the meatloaf, which was just OK. I think it had waited in the warmer a bit too long as it was dry and lukewarm when it arrived at least 1/2 hour after we ordered. Bacon wrap was mostly fat, which I didn't eat. Sides were excellent, though. Waitress was friendly, though we did have to wait quite awhile for our food (not the waitress's fault). I think they have a great menu. With a few tweaks--getting the food out on time, solving the smoke problem, and possibly allowing reservations--I think they'll do well. By the way, the place was PACKED!!!!

Posted by
December 28, 2005 10:02 AM

Most all restaurants last night were PACKED...

Great food, service was fine (ate at the bar twice)great prices for wine by the bottle

Posted by
December 28, 2005 11:05 AM

The nearly overnight popularity of the Front Room is another reminder that Portland needs more casual restaurants with well-prepared food at a reasonable price--the kind of place you can afford to go once a week, not just on a special occasion. Dogfish is SRO every weekend, same with Norms. Uffa used to be this kind of restaurant, but when it changed ownership it became just another place competing at the high end of the price scale. Same with Katahdin. We need more places like the Front Room.

Posted by chuck
December 29, 2005 10:11 AM

Gabe, funny you should say about Street & Co. My husband and I are relative newcomers to Portland and finally made it there recently for dinner after hearing rave reviews from so many people, and we were very disappointed. I didn't even find the food to be very good, let alone interesting or worth the pricetag. I usually enjoy places that are "quaint", but their dining room bordered on downright cramped; can't tell you the number of times my chair was bumped into by waitstaff trying to get by, rearrange chairs, etc. Not pleased, and I hope that our experience at Caiola's on New Year's will show me how Street & Co. USED to be when Abby was there.
Could someone PLEASE tell us where exactly the Front Room is located?

Posted by Gretchen
December 29, 2005 11:12 AM

The Front Room is on Congress Street on Munjoy Hill (the eastern end of Congress). Heading east, it's on the left side, about a block past the Blue Spoon restaurant. It's right across the street from the old St. Lawrence Church.

Posted by chuck
December 29, 2005 11:18 AM

Ah, thank you Chuck! I think I know of the space that you are referring to; there was a space there that was a large windowfront that was empty for some time. Sounds like it's been filled!

Posted by Gretchen
December 29, 2005 12:20 PM

The other night I tried to have dinner at The Front Room. Not only was it packed (not a weekend) but it was hard to breathe due to the thick, meaty, smoke billowing from the kitchen. I heard someone in line behind me say, "I guess they haven't solved the ventillation problem yet." I turned right around and left. The thing that struck me was that everyone appeared to be having a great time in spite of the discomfort. Perhaps the problem with the slow service is that the waitstaff can't find the customers in the Brigadoon mist, and that is why it takes so long!
I am looking forward to trying again.

Posted by Gloria
December 30, 2005 10:21 AM

We were looking forward to eating at Caiola's based in large part on word of mouth and reputation but found the food overpriced and way too salty. We also had a problem with the bill-they overcharged our credit card by 20% despite our having left a 25% tip in cash. While they straightened the matter out, this is sloppy business operations.

Posted by
December 31, 2005 07:50 AM

Great! another tiny restuarant that you can barely move in... just what portland needs. Difficult to get a seat and impossible to get up to use the restroom without bumping your neighbor and spilling his/her glass of wine. this is getting tiresome! I dine out often (3-4 a week) and the theme is the same. Say what you want about oolong but it is the best space in portland to have a meal. The food needs refinement but the ambience is top notch. You actually feel your there for a night out and not eating in someones kitchen. In my opinion, the atmosphere is just as important as the food being served and these redundant themes in portland are getting quite boring! i just wish oolong and old port sea grill had better food beacause they have the other parts correct for the most part. I think Portland has some decent food not extraordinary as some would say and overall I would say portlanders overrate what is here. It's true there are many but only a handfull that deserve some of the praise they get. Mr. Golden when he started this blog, would point out good restuarants and also highlight the ones that were subpar and needed improvement. It seems through the moaning he has gotten he has chosen to only underscore the positives.. ie.. taste and tell. i wish he would go back to giving his expert opinion witch was excellent and stop listening to the crowd who believes a negative review will ruin a business. you see people the only thing that will ruin a restaurant is the restaurant itself. If I like the place I will go even if john pans it even though I respect his opinion. lets have john start giving his "real opinions again."

Posted by nick
December 31, 2005 08:51 AM

As my husband and I eat out often, we will have to try the Front Room at least once. We need a lot more cozy, middle of the road priced restaurants with good food. One Fore Street is good enough. We love Local 188! Reasonably priced, excellent food, excellent service and great atmosphere. It's next to Uffa in Longfellow Square.

Posted by Amy
December 31, 2005 01:11 PM

Nick--you're right about the Liliputian nature of so many of our restaurants here. The formula is 34 to 38 seats. I've served that many at my home.

I suppose that most of our new restauranteurs have small start up budgets and thus we have been inundated by so many small restaurants.

I beg to differ, though, on your assessment of Portland eateries. We have so many good ones.

I haven't had the stamina lately nor the desire to go to restaurants that I know will be bad and thus give a bad write up. I hope I'm not pandering to those sorts of reviews. I've been concentrating lately on those that I know and like.

I'll come up with one soon that I can slam to the wall. So much more fun to write about anyway.

Posted by John Golden
January 2, 2006 01:42 PM

Hi Folks,
Thanks for all your comments, they are appreciated and considered good and constructive.
We are smoke freeeeeee!!!!! Much trouble with the ventilation but it has been adjusted and is very pleasant.
Thank you for finding us and making our opening amazing and for understanding the bumps in the road that come with all of you wanting to check us out. We hope we have passed muster and want to let you know that we are not just the hot new restaurant but a neighborhood joint that will be around for years to come. Not for curiousity seekers but for loyal patrons who appreciate our efforts to produce solid food and great prices. We have a fantastic friendly staff who are here to take care of you - be nice.
Thank you so much and see you soon.
Harding & Sarah

Posted by Harding & Sarah
January 3, 2006 12:18 AM

Congratulations on working through initial difficulties. I was very impressed by the food and our waitress when we went a few weeks ago, and the now-smoke-free-ness is even better.

Even as a West-Ender I look forward to the longevity of the Front Room!

Posted by
January 3, 2006 01:05 PM

the opening of front room and caiola's have made this a good fall/winter for new restaurants in portland. John, or anyone else, have you heard about any other intriguing places in or around portland that have opened or are in the works?

Posted by bryan
January 4, 2006 02:16 PM

I have a heard a few things about a restaurant opening in the old Monroe Salt works building on Congress st. I had heard that it was going to be a Spanish/Tapas bar. Regardless, the renovations inside look incredible.

Posted by
January 4, 2006 02:33 PM

I believe you are talking about the White Heart Bar and Cocktail Lounge. It is supposed to open in a month or two. Their website is
www.thewhiteheart.com

Seems they are on pace to open before the new Skinny and Blue Mango one block over. I never went to the original Blue Mango, any opinions?

Along with new restaurants, Congress st. is really the main corridor of music again when you think of The State, Geno's, White Heart, Skinny, Space, and Merrill.

I didn't see a response before John, but what are you expecting for a restaurant in the new Westin? I heard that Riverwalk will also have a restaurant too. I would love to see a Ruths Chris or some other respected chain.

Posted by Dominic
January 4, 2006 09:08 PM

I loved the old Blue Mango on Spring street. Is it opening again someplace else?

Posted by brian
January 6, 2006 04:51 AM

I also look forward to seeing John's "real opinion" again!

While I believe that you've really enjoyed some nice meals out (and it's fun to read about them, if not dangerously hunger-inducing), I must admit that I was surprised Caiola's got such a great review.

Based on my experience there, I would have expected you to point out some of their major flaws. The restaurant owners have to know what the customers think if the restaurant is to improve.

But then again, maybe you've just been much luckier there than I was!

Posted by Jes
January 6, 2006 11:04 AM

What does the Front Room offer by way of drinks? Beer and wine only, or liquor as well?

Posted by taxicab1
January 7, 2006 09:56 AM

The Blue Mango "should" be going into the first floor of the old Whit's End building, right across from Stitchez on Congress Street. The top floor will be the new Skinny club. Here's an old article from the Phoenix about it:

http://www.portlandphoenix.com/features/this_just_in/documents/04054336.asp

Posted by
January 7, 2006 02:17 PM

A thanks to Harding and Sarah for such a great space and amazing food.
Gretchen, still waiting to hear your review of Caiola's. I was out the other night and her Mac and Cheese was the subject of much discussion.

Posted by Gabe
January 12, 2006 12:11 AM

Does anyone have the phone number for Caiola's in the West End area? Can't seem to find it.
Thanks!
Eva Matteson

Posted by
January 16, 2006 05:47 AM

Caiola's is at 58 Pine St. (the old Westside space for those of us who have lived here that long, I do miss that patio for outdoor dining and hope they plan to use it)
the number is 772-1110

Posted by tabby
January 16, 2006 12:15 PM

I have eaten at the front room about six times and have been very pleased with the food. Earlier the smoke problem was horrendous. Thankfully, the ventilation problem appears to be solved.

I do have to honestly say that the service has consistantly been some of the worst I have experienced in Portland. From 'clueless' wine service, long waits for food and twice having all courses served at one time - I have to give the Front Room poor marks in that category. I hope they will work out the service problems as the food is very good!

Posted by
January 19, 2006 08:56 AM

Sushi is my vice, and the new "King of the Roll" at the Corner of State & Congress is my new vice. After about 15 meals, both lunches and dinners in the past 2 months since they opened, it's hard to get me to go anywhere else these days. Consistently perfect and speedy presentation, under-prices, huge selection, off-the-docks-fresh seafoods, and a very comfortable and immaculate dining area/sushi bar make it a "10" for me and my guests. If you like sushi, you will love King of the Roll.
Enjoy, Charlie

Posted by Charlie
January 20, 2006 09:47 AM

THE FRONT ROOM...

If you are looking for quality customer service good luck finding it at the Front Room!

To quote Harding Smith, Chef & Owner in his unapologetic words "it sounds like a mistake." He's right it sounds like a mistake to me too. It sounds like a mistake to be subjected to a poor customer service over and over again. My mistake!

I have been a patron of the establishment over a dozen times since its smoke filled opening this fall. Each time thinking it's new, the service issues will be positively enhanced with time and training. I can get over the bumping elbows with fellow diners due to the tight table space because the comfort food was always wonderful if Harding was in the kitchen.

It is now make or brake time as six months has passed. For the first time I felt it was necessary to express my quality of service or lack there of as well as poor food expediting and presentation concerns.

The service and culinary issues were met with a smug and inattentive rolling of the eyes and "what's up!" My mistake was that I started the conversation with a guilt laden "I myself am in the industry and never send items back but..."

Open kitchen dynamics are wonderful if the staff realizes that they are always in view. I watched front and center as our server made judgmental remarks and faces to fellow employees over the quality and timing concerns expressed. She then came back to our table to offer no apology but more attitude. Fruit doesn't fall far from the tree.

I was not listened to by the owners so I write this so that other guests or future patrons will. What happened to treat others how you would expect to be treated? I never expected to pay to be treated so poorly. My friend and I went to relax, converse and dine together. We were unable to achieve any of those goals as the entire night from the abrasive seating to the hit & run service and guest check presentation were offensive.

You would think that one who invests so much time, effort and heart into a business that serves the community would want constructive, relative feedback.
I experienced that that is not so at The Front Room, "BIG MISTAKE!"


"What's up" not my qualified rating of the performance and experience to be had at the Front Room. I am not only a patron but a neighbor to the location and a fellow industry professional. I feel compelled to alert others to the numerous experiences I have spent hard earned dollars to not only witness but experience. Dining options are vast and expanding in Portland especially in the prominent east end. Prior to spending your hard earned dollars to be treated with poor attitude and a have crap shoot culinary experience I would look at all the dining options and place The Front Room at the bottom of the list.

A note posted in the menu case located next to the entrance reads:

"We will be closed Tuesday dinners effective April 25th 2006 for a little rest and reflection. This will be temporary, throughout the spring to be sure.
Thank you to everyone for all your support and continued patronage.
We love our restaurant, our friends and neighbors. See you the other six nights of the week."
"Harding & Sarah"


The restaurant is closed on Tuesday evenings "to be sure." To be sure the restaurant will close many other nights if not for good if the owners and or many investors of the establishment will not listen to customers. More so they should sit on the other side with eyes and ears wide open to the experience they are allowing their guests to be exposed to by the untrained inadequate hospitality personnel they have chosen to be represented by. A clear picture can now be seen since the smoke has risen.

Harding and Sarah may love their restaurant but as a neighbor and (former) patron I felt no love. I hope they do get the rest & reflection they so awkwardly expressed to the community that is required so they will be able to invest in the customer service & quality culinary training The Front Room so desperately needs in order to succeed.


Alicia Flynn

Posted by Alicia
May 19, 2006 04:10 PM

I have dined at the Front Room approximately a dozen times since January. Though there were a few instances of mediocre service and long waits for the meal, the majority of my experiences have been outstanding.

The food is wonderful; this is a given. I try to order a different menu item each time I visit and the last two times have had the burger- easily the best burger in Portland. The combination of the seasoned meat and perfectly grilled (ciabatta?) roll is a winner.

A few tips: go early, especially on weekend nights and consider ordering your meal at the bar instead of waiting for a table. Also, the crowds are thinner at breakfast and lunch.

This is the restaurant I take out of town visitors to and they love it.

Posted by Kathy
September 22, 2006 07:27 PM

I've had breakfast at the Front Room twice in the past 2 weeks. The first time the service was average but acceptable. Sunday 12/24 the service (Emily) was outstanding-coffee cup always full; food served about 10 minutes after arriving.

Posted by Joe
December 25, 2006 11:26 AM

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