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Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
February 27, 2006
Casual Is Cool--Messy Is Not

Some people equate the notion of pleasant surroundings, comfort, good service and fine food as the symbols of middle-class drudgery. I’d no sooner want to dine in a dive as I would go to an open-air market rife with rats romping around the pumpkin patch.

This doesn’t mean if one opts for a casual dining experience that it must have unkempt, unappealing surroundings dished up by a spaced-out wait staff too cool for anything more than lackluster service. Yet if the food is decent enough, even somewhat compelling, it’s supposed to compensate. That’s hogwash.

For a long time the Portland restaurant scene has been overwhelmed by these little charming joints that are sometimes hard on the eyes--with lighting appropriate for an opium den or kitchens as organized an as embattled mess hall at a training camp. Thank you very much. I’d rather stay home than go to someplace, even if the food is palatable, where I feel I should take a trip to the Board of Health afterwards. Indeed some establishments have their very appeal from the chic of shabby and quaint. That’s OK. Haphazardness isn’t.

Fortunately the old is outnumbered by the accomplished with experienced, highly trained chefs who have opened restaurants recently, offering inventive food cooked to code and served professionally.

While most of our restaurants are in the Old Port or downtown, neighborhood eateries are where it’s at for now. Case in point would be The Front Room and Caiola’s. I’ve written about these before when they first opened—both hugely successful from the get-go.

I generally go to the Front Room for Sunday night supper if I’m not serving it at home to friends, which I like to do often. These Sunday have become a sure-fire hit at the Front Room. Many of our other popular restaurants are closed. Still you have to be in the mood for the crowds, the noise and the pleasant mayhem of dining out en masse.

I was there last night for dinner, and it’s very obvious that it’s a haunt for the Eastern Prom neighborhood as well as interlopers like me from elsewhere. But Chef Harding Smith packs the house because he offers fabulous fare in an attractive atmosphere.

My neighborhood restaurant is Caiola’s in the West End where we go several nights a week because the food is so good and the ambiance is so inviting.

It’s no surprise that the menu offers so many great choices. Chef and co-owner Abby Harmon has ruled the roost for years at the hugely successful Street & Company and is following through on her own turf as she sees fit.

But Harmon has taken a different approach. She prepares what can only be described as highly wrought, finely tuned home-style cooking. It might have Mediterranean influences at times or the bearing of straight-off-the farm goodness.

Certainly the hamburger is the best in town and the accompanying Tater Tots are marvels of reinvention. In fact I often order a side of those deep-fried breaded encrusted potato wonders to nibble on before our first course. If you haven’t tried them I urge you to.

The other night I had Mahi-Mahi served with polenta that was brilliantly rich with flavor and texture. Though I have to admit that I wanted the herb-breaded turkey cutlets again, which I had only a few nights before. Other dishes like short ribs or steak or bouillabaisse are fabulously done offerings too. Two first course soups offered that night were splendid—a cream of celery with chives and a cream soup of mussels and Vermouth that could have easily passed as dining in Marseilles. The menu changes constantly, something more restaurants in town need to do.

The point is this has become the core of dining in the neighborhood for me. We walk in and know half the people there. Co-owner Lisa Viccaro is a paragon of warmth and hospitality, an important practice for restaurants have. Places like Five-Fifty Five, Back Bay, Cinque Terre, the Front Room and Fore Street have owners or managers who rule the front of the house beautifully.

But it’s all meant to be casual but not to the point of disrepair. I feel there’s a highly trained and highly capable chef in the kitchen sending out wonderful food with heart and soul rather than jagged unevenness at lesser establishments that come off as merely weird.

Since I’ve lived here the scope of dining in Portland has taken high, broad turns offering variety and fineness that is generally only available in larger cities. The group is comprised of old-timers and newcomers. Fore Street, Back Bay, Hugo’s, Bandol, Cinque Terre, Five-Fifty Five, Oolong,Uffa, Caiola’s and The Front Room.

But even amongst this finely wrought group changes are in the offing. On SaturdayI went to the final dinner to be served at the Exchange Street location of Bandol. Of course it was splendid and beyond compare. Chef-proprietor Erik Desjarlais is moving onto two different venues. One is going to be Ladle, a lunchtime soup place in the Old Port that sounds promising indeed. And to carry on his more serious talents he’ll be opening a much need, enticing French bistro on Congress Street.

Cinque Terre plans a second outpost in the guise, as I understand it, of a wine-bar trattoria for more casual dining. And I’m curious about Hugo’s tapas menu now being offered in their front room bar. I hear the place is packed with nibblers converging around high stools and tables in the bar. Apparently there’s an expanded menu at Duck Fat too.

The national press likes to term Portland as a cool city in which to live and play. Certainly this assertion as far as dining options go and other virtues are in fine repute

Posted by John Golden at 10:16 AM

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Comments

Never been to Bandol, but thought I would add some info on their new soup location. This is from their site...

In the meantime, look for my side project; an artisanal soup house in the Old Port. “Ladle” is the result of three like-minded folks coming together to provide a space to sit and eat soup. If you don’t want to sit, you can take it away. I love soup. I love making soup. I love the word “soup”. My partners love soup. Hopefully, you love soup as well. All of the soup, as well as the breads offered, will be straight from my stovetop and oven. Ladle will be opening at the end of February at 58 Exchange Street, directly below the clothing boutique Bliss. (Same entrance, just go down the stairs to the left). We will be offering 4 or 5 soups each day; both eat in and take away. My partners, Zahra and Regan look forward to providing our soup, space, and kind company to the Old Port and beyond.

Posted by Dominic
February 27, 2006 02:46 PM

OH… YAWN…
Another reading / writing by the great Portland critic. This web site is however, Maine Today, right. Oh anyway… I’m not at all surprised by the writing. It offers some pretty good information about the same old stuff …
Another feather in your cap you jolly old sole. Your job is to write about restaurants. This is the perfect job for a foody. However, I’m not really sure you’re a foody. All I seem to read about is the same blah, blah, blah restaurants. Honestly, I mean no disrespect. Start challenging yourself man! Tell me about some other great eatery. Even the Local rag tells the tale from the state. And I’m not sure that writer boils water. Now go on and do what some call a good job. And remember, – Maine Today . com!

Oh and, Harding
You can’t write about how great you think you are in this blog. Busted again!

Posted by
February 27, 2006 03:39 PM

Caiola’s is really overrated, mostly by you. From the uninspired menu to the blah location. By the way, I was in there for my second-- and probably last time and noticed the hostess marching people through the middle of the kitchen and into another tiny dining room in rear of the restuarant-directly through the kitchen! There's not enough room to list all the reasons that is a really bad idea.

Posted by JF
February 27, 2006 06:29 PM

Time is limited,scope is narrow and this is a real small place and the world is large.

Posted by
February 27, 2006 09:24 PM

I sat in the room behind the kitchen Friday night, and had no problem with it whatsoever.
1. It's nice to know they've got nothing to hide in there.
2. It's nice to know that while some new restaurants in town are foolishly instituting no-reservation policies others have the foresight to convert wasted storage space into a small room used for overflow.

Posted by
February 27, 2006 10:32 PM

When did Harding ever write how great he thinks he is? Besides, does he even need to? Obviously, his crowded restaurant speaks louder than you.

Posted by
February 27, 2006 10:59 PM

The back room was first concieved to be an area to host private parties.

Posted by
February 27, 2006 11:13 PM

I was told that when the summer comes, it will become a storeroom and they will put people out on a back deck...

Posted by
February 28, 2006 12:41 AM

The success of places like the Front Room and Caiola's means to me that Portland as a city--there to offer all goods and services to the amusement and benefit of its residents--very much lacked good, casual dining spots that are as much a place to eat as they are meant to entertain.

Posted by
February 28, 2006 07:02 AM

I will have to respectfully disagree with JG on this. I have eaten Bull foot soup in dusty road side stands of the Caribbean, I have eaten duck cassoulet in a dank basement of a rural farm in France and I have eaten Bacalhau in dilapidated shacks in Portugal. Each of these was one of the best culinary experiences that I have ever had, however I doubt JG would have ordered from any of these places. If you become fixated on the messiness of a place you may be missing some great food. This goes for Portland as well. The old Uncle Billy's was a pit - but it was a great place to eat. La Bodega Latina, Mi Casa Su Casa and Local 188 (which I believe much of this article is referring to) are great places to eat and are rewarded with a dedicated clientele. I am not condoning filth - however - not all places can be outright antiseptic.

As for Caiola's if they want to lead people through their kitchen, that is their prerogative. My beef with them is their mindblowingly uninspiring atmosphere and food. When I have eaten there I forget I am eating in the city and feel like I am eating at the Holiday Inn on Exit 8. Simplicity is one thing, outright overpriced banality is another.

Posted by E.johnson
February 28, 2006 09:42 AM

The thought occurred to me that some of you might think that I don't like hoakey joints, roadside finds, and such. That's really not the case at all. I love those sorts of places. What I don't particularly care for are restaurants that only go halfway--too lazy to keep the place neat and clean, offering lackluster service, high prices, all for so-called charm that only the owner's mother could like.

Posted by
February 28, 2006 10:28 AM

I went to Caiolas last week and thought that it was fantastic. The food was simple but fresh, full of flavour and well prepared.
The desserts were delicious and the service was excellent. Without reservation I would reccomend it.

Posted by SB
February 28, 2006 11:31 AM

I would go to Caiola's any night of the week. But I have to spread the cheer. I think I'm going to try Hugo's new cheap(??)
$44 prixe fixe tonight.

Posted by
February 28, 2006 02:10 PM

Bandol was the best resturant in Maine. How sad that people in Portland couldn't apreciate it.
As for shabby...some of the best food in the city is served at Sophia's. To miss out on this local treasure because the room is a mess would be a shame. That place is all about the food.
On the other end of the spectrum is Fore Street. What a cool interior...too bad the food is boring and uninspired. Combine that basic flaw with the haughty attitude that has greeted one at the front of the house (for years) and you have an establishment that seems to exist on past glory and a nice room. pathetic.
If one wants to see what Sam Hayward has been up to lately, Scales is everything that ForeStreet is not. Unasuming, friendly and the interior design is like a bunker. The food is rendered perfectly. They serve fried clams and fish/chips that are as good as any I have had. The oysters are wonderful. Like diving into the sea. For our tenth annivesary my partner and I chose to celebrate at Scales.
There is something to be said for a chef that aims low and hits her target. I would prefer an excellent grilled cheese sandwich over a high minded but poorly executed entree (see Oolong, 555, Mim's, Cinque Terre, Hugo's, Arrow's, Caiola's, Front Room et.all). Bandol was the only resturant in Portland that could pull it off. Everyone else needs to aprentice under a good chef. Either that, or create a menu that the line cooks can pull off...everynight.
So I will enjoy simple but correct meals at Sophia's and Scales. Duck Fat and Back Bay Grill also manage to create excellent meals that hit their marks. And then there were four. Bandol...R.I.P.

Posted by joe escoffier
February 28, 2006 09:39 PM

Does anyone know where the 'new' Bandol is going to be on Congress St.?

Posted by
February 28, 2006 11:50 PM

There are so many disjointed points made by Joe (or is it Josephine?) that I just can't help but comment. I wonder just how many of these restaurants she has been to that she mentions in her rant?

Since we are throwing out opinions, the best restaurant in Maine is Primo. Absolutely. Unequivocally.

To write that Bandol was the best restaurant in Maine is overstating at best. Bandol too had its flaws and if she had any real experience in some of the world's best restaurants, she would learn to appreciate just what Bandol was missing.

Sophia's has great breads, a cool space and tasty bites. It's definitely all about the food. I hope your "simple but correct" meal is at lunch since Sophia's doesn't seem to feel the need to stay open any later. It is completely unfair to compare Sophia's to Fore Street. Part of Fore street's allure is the experience which I have only found positive. The "haughty" attitude of the front door is an old urban legend that persists but couldn't be further fom the truth. Has Josephine even eaten there? i've had nothing but friendly, attentive service there and have eaten there 20 plus times. Do you really believe Sophia's food to be inspired? It is good, filling and well prepared but hardly inspired.

Oh well. What they say about opinions is certainly true. They all stink...

Posted by
March 1, 2006 12:49 AM

I could easily brand myself as Bandol's most ardent supporter. I hate to say, however, which restaurant is the best in Maine. It's hard to find food that is as creative and extraordinarily conceived as at Bandol. I can't wait until Erik opens his new place on Congress.

As for "Joe's" comments on
Fore Street, you're totally wrong. The food there is sublime--simple, well conceived, highly flavorful and pure, the genius of simplicity based on stellar ingredients. The waitstaff is about the best we have in the city. Warm, friendly and able servers who make part of the dining there a delight.

Your other throwaway comments on Hugo's, 555, etc are really off the mark.

I like Sophia's too. Go there often for lunch. But it is what it is, a cafe, and the only one in Portland.

Last night I went to Hugo's for their $44 prix fixe potato dinner. Well I suppose it was something about potatoes, but hardly the point of the meal. And what a meal it was. The first course of a mussell flan was pure genius, heaven in every morsel.
I wouldn't call it a bargain though. By the time we were finished with drinks and extras, it was a $200 meal. Still it was memorable.

I do agree, though, that Primo is a wonderful restaurant and certainly one of the best in Maine.

Posted by
March 1, 2006 07:11 AM

Joe's opinions are just his/her thoughts and I can respect that although I don't agree. However, the fore street reference it true. it is highly overrated not even in the top 8 or 9 restuarants in portland. Boring food at alarming prices. i'd rather pay more and go to hugos or the new bandol.
Primo the best in Maine?? It's good but hard to rate it the best. I'd rather rate certain meals than rate a restuarant the "best" It's too generic and difficult and really unfair. Some restuarants do certain dishes well and others may outperform in other areas. to label one "the best" impossible!

Posted by
March 1, 2006 07:31 AM

Is Bandol taking over the old 100 Congress location? If so...when?

Posted by
March 1, 2006 08:13 AM

The skinny on the new Bandol and Ladle:

http://pressherald.mainetoday.com/foodhealth/soup2nuts/060301soupnuts.shtml

And can I make a request that folks post with their names? It's nice to know who a comment belongs to, you know?

Posted by Colleen
March 1, 2006 08:48 AM

" if she had any real experience in some of the world's best restaurants, she would learn to appreciate just what Bandol was missing."

Oh, please....how many of the worlds best resturants do I need to have eaten @ to qualify my opinions? Many of the best meals that I have had have been in the homes of friends and acquaintances all over the world, but we are talking resturants: Gordon Ramsey, Nobu (London), French Laundry, Fat Duck, Pierre Gagnaire,Le Pre Catalan, Alan Ducasse (NY), Chez Panisse, Gary Danko, Jean Georges, Daniel, Zuni and those are just the ones that you have heard of. I'm sure that you have heard of "Oolong(2 meals), 555(4 meals), Mim's(6+ meals), Cinque Terre(3), Hugo's(4+), Arrow's(4+), Caiola's(2), Front Room(2), Fore Street(12+)"...been to all of those at least twice. In Oolong's case that was twice too many. This qualifies me to only have my own opinion. I won't question anyone elses qualifications. They are made apparent by their own observations..
I agree that "the best" is a vague term that has little meaning. I regret using the term "best". Only a few of the resturants that I mentioned hit all their marks. It kind of like figure skating. If you can't pull off the figure, points are deducted. I appreciate a place that delivers what they promise.

I should say that the wait staff a Fore Street is excellent, but sublime food? Order up the veggie sides and careless is the first thing that comes to mind.

As for "tasty bites"....Stephen Lanzalotta is really the only Chef in Maine that has fully embraced the slow food movement. His food is a rare example of simplicity, care and love. You can taste it in his food. Maybe the decor is more important for some. To each her own.

And yes, these are only my opinions.


Posted by joe escoffier
March 1, 2006 09:58 AM

is Stephen Lanzalotta the guy who runs sophias on market street? do they serve dinner there?

Posted by bryan
March 1, 2006 11:16 AM

Walking through the kitchen is not only dangerous to the customer, but could result in more than personal injury lawsuit- Can you say insurance denial. A working kitchen is no place for a casual stroll. I'm surprised it's allowed.

Posted by Greg W
March 1, 2006 12:13 PM

Cruising through the kitchen avoiding knives,huge pots of boiling water, treacherous slippery floors and flames, sounds like fun compared to the Caiola's boring menu. Hamburger, vodak penne and tired old paella. oh wait, they also have a small and boring wine list too.

Posted by Jzz
March 1, 2006 12:20 PM

Talk about PATHETIC! There are people in the world eating flies and rice and you psuedo-grandiose overfed Americans are having a whizzing contest about which one of you is the most obnoxious. Guess what? It's a giant tie. YOU ALL WIN. I don't that much about the restaurant biz, but I'd hazard a guess it's not easy. I'm sure none of you could do any better than the worst joint in town-oh- that's right, you aren't in the restaurant biz-you're in the complain about the people who are in the restaurant biz- biz.

Posted by JF
March 1, 2006 07:15 PM

JF.. yawn... yawn... what did you say???

Posted by
March 1, 2006 08:06 PM

JF! YES, YOU ARE SO RIGHT!

Posted by Cleopatra
March 2, 2006 12:55 AM

JF's argument is the simplistic logic of an eighth grader. Yes there world poverty is a staggering and sad problem and yes what we discuss on this board is petty. However by his logic anything not concerned with world poverty is petty and stupid. I am sure that JF spends little to no time himself working on problems of world hunger. If he does than good for him and I retract everything that I have said. If not than why should I not be able to label everything he does as petty and stupid - because he is correct everything that we do is petty compared to struggles of the world's poor. So either devote your life to their struggle or stop comparing whatever you don't like to them

Posted by
March 2, 2006 12:17 PM

Where do people eat flies? How are they prepared? Are they tasty? Do you mean fried rice?
I have lived and travelled in Subsaharan Africa and don't recall anyone eating flies.
As for people in the biz-biz, I suspect that many of the folks contributing to John's blog have or are working in kitchens. When you "ass ume"...
JF, you are also a big winner (does that have an "h" in it some where?). Thanks for playing.Where do people eat flies? How are they prepared? Are they tasty? Do you mean fried rice?
I have lived and travelled in Subsaharan Africa and don't recall anyone eating flies.
As for people in the biz-biz, I suspect that many of the folks contributing to John's blog have or are working in kitchens. When you "ass ume"...
JF, you are also a big winner (does that have an "h" in it some where?). Thanks for playing.

Posted by joe escoffier
March 2, 2006 12:19 PM

that was disjointed. sorry

Posted by joe escoffier
March 2, 2006 12:21 PM

Actually, I'm part of that "world poverty"- I live and work in Portland. You obviously realize you are petty and that's the only point I was trying to make.
Anyone who makes a joke out of world hunger, is only doing so out of his/her own guilt escoffier.

Posted by JF
March 3, 2006 01:55 PM

I was making light of your exageration. your point is not made by false claims. Then you continue to minimize the suffering of many in this world by claiming that your condition (living and working Portland and eating out at Caiola’s and waisting time on the internet) is in some way like those surviving famine and living in refugee camps. Talk about petty...and self righteous.

Posted by joe escoffier
March 3, 2006 02:36 PM

It relates to famine if he's on dialup.

;)


joke. purely a joke.

Posted by
March 3, 2006 08:08 PM

Our "hey ma, look at me" mentality and the access the internet provides has gotten out of hand. We stand on our soapboxes proclaiming expertise and offering up our "opinions". I guess that is one of the things that makes our country what it is. Great or not each one of us has the access to public free expression through this medium still in its infancy. This freedom demands responsibility however. I don't know about you but my mother taught me that if I have nothing nice to say, then say nothing at all.

Restaurants are a huge part of our economy. They employ lots of people and every one of those people have family. As we all sit around, type and bash a particular place try to remember that we could be impacting the livlihood of someone. If you don't like the place, don't go. There is no reason to publicly bash it. Talk abut self righteous and petty...

Posted by
March 4, 2006 01:50 AM

Also messing with someone's livelihood is not telling them that a restaurant is unenjoyable and letting them spend(or, rather, waste) their money there.

Posted by
March 4, 2006 08:36 AM

"...try to remember that we could be impacting the livlihood of someone. "

I hope that we are. By celebrating what is excellent and encouraging those who fall short to do better, maybe all of the boats will rise with the tide. I don't think that a discussion of the merits and demerits of Portland's resturants is "bashing". Everyone has the right to a different opinion, and in this forum, we are discussing those opinions and differences of opinion. You could stand to apply your own advice to yourself.

Posted by joe escoffier
March 4, 2006 11:11 AM

As usual, the plebs of the world are stuck in theirs only and simply do not get it. It doesn't surprise me of course. Joe is the worst culprit since s/he has spent so much time travelling the world sampling the best of the best. Of course what does he care if he puts some small restaurant out of business. He can take the space and make his restaurant world class. Or does he not have the guts to do it but finds it safer and easier to dis other's establishments?

Posted by
March 4, 2006 11:38 AM

Patrician (look it up), if you think that any resaurant in Portland is at risk because of Joe Escoffier's opinion, you are a fool.
And yes, you are correct, after working as a cook, I did not have the guts to continue. It is damn hard work with terrible hours, little pay and no benefits. I would say that about any job is safer and easier than working in a kitchen, and I have alot of respect for anyone that works in a kitchen.

Posted by joe escoffier
March 4, 2006 02:22 PM

As a true patrician (and no I didn't have to look it up) your plebeian ways are simply boorish. The good news is you don't work in an industry that you obviously failed in. The bad news is we can not get access to your other worldly cuisine as you save it for those worthy of your refined taste buds. Continue to be "Joecentric". The rest of us will move on...

Posted by
March 4, 2006 02:33 PM

Only the vainest queen would proudly describe her(him?) self as "patrician". Ooooh fancy fancy.
Mardi Gras is over. Your plastic beads and tiara are only magic for one night.

Posted by joe escoffier
March 4, 2006 07:16 PM

I find it amazing that we are discussing world hunger on a food blog on Portland's restaurants. JF, if you do not want to read about people discussing their likes/dislikes of restaurants, simply do not read the blog. However, do not openly critize people for expressing their opinions, no matter how trivial you find the subject matter. And while we may be engaging each other with our thoughts on open kitchens or reservation policies and not world hunger, at the very least we are exercising something that is extremely significant...freedom of speech

Posted by DS
March 10, 2006 01:38 PM

right on.

Posted by
March 11, 2006 02:11 AM

Oh and, Harding
You can’t write about how great you think you are in this blog. Busted again!
Posted by
February 27, 2006 03:39 PM

When did Harding ever write how great he thinks he is? Besides, does he even need to? Obviously, his crowded restaurant speaks louder than you.
Posted by
February 27, 2006 10:59 PM

In response, I’m sorry it’s taken me so long. I’ve been in Europe, enjoying the other side.
Obviously the response I got was from either Sara or Harding. Which I think is great. However, I think you should know that my words as a patron speak very loud. I not saying that I was unhappy with the food or the service. What I am saying is that, If you guys are going to pay attention to a web blog and write a response. Then you need to understand the meaning of constructive criticism. I will also tell you in complete honesty, that my experience was not a 10 out of 10. I not sure that it was a 2 out of 10. But, for the first time this is what I expected. I hope when we go back thing will have gotten better.

Oh, Almost forgot! Remember this one! This is what we are Talking about!

As to the chefs talking with patrons...have you seen the way chef smith interacts with his guests, it's like they were coming to his home for dinner!!! A truly welcoming vibe
Posted by harding
February 24, 2006 02:19 AM


Posted by
March 14, 2006 12:15 PM

Ever think that maybe harding's words were done with a wink?

Posted by
March 18, 2006 09:32 AM

I Agree with escoffier, the very large number of Restuarants that portland has is greatly overshadowed by the lack of actual excelent resturaunts either because there is no focus, skill, Knowledge of or around food or because the real end goal is to make money. So serving food that falls greatly short of good is acceptible. The general public is absolutly oblivious to what makes up a good menu or food, that provokes thought and maybe get a little out side of thier comfort zone. Most don't care, there are fewer diners who dine than those who simply want to stuff thier faces with some reconisible, totally uninteresting food. Wich leaves those who dine out alot and those who generaly enjoy food for where it comes from and how it is treated before ariving on the plate in front of you left by the way side. For those people there are a handfull of actual good chefs in portland those include Rob Evans at Hugo's, Eric and crew that worked for him at bandol and Larry and crew at The Back Bay Grill. These places have Interesting and unuasual things poping on and off the menu all the time. There are very few that can even compare with consistancy and originality. As for customer's walking through a kitchen as a general practice, f*** no, that is no place for the general public to be, put aside the heath risks, insurance or the fact that most people don't actualy want to see where the food comes from. It is just bad practice, no one should see a kitchen at full steam unless it is designed to be, such as the old Commisary in the public Market.The Kitchen ws puposefully made so that it should be seen. Opinions are opinions and every one has them but the one thing that sets aside some people from others is that they actualy know what they are talking about and for those who think that every little side street, hole in the wall resturaunt Portland is world class and have meaningfull food haven't or don't have the knowlegde of eating or at least looking at the great Restuaraunts in the world. Those who are booked month in advance or even a year ahead. El Buli, Trotter's, The French Laundry, Fat Duck......... Where most people (general public) are lost.

Posted by Savarin
July 21, 2006 09:37 PM

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