April 03, 2006
Soup's On Exchange Street
Leave it to Erik Desjarlais--the proprietor of our very own brilliant Bandol, a dining establishment that probably could have emerged more highly evolved in more magnanimous regions steeped with intrepid foodies—to give us now the mere basics and done so well, too.
Ladle, at 58 Exchange Street, in a basement location, is a brilliant little coup offering the nectar of pleasantries in the name of soup.
The eatery is all soup, bread and one fabulous rendition of a chocolate chip cookie, which the wait staff behind the counter calls the best in the world.
This subterranean jewel really follows in the footsteps that other local restaurateurs have taken by opening secondary establishments: To wit: Hugo’s Duckfat and Fore Street’s Scales ( dearly departed). Now Bandol’s Ladle. Bandol will reopen later this year, probably in the summer, at a new location as Chef Desjarlais reconnoiters to teach us new culinary tricks and treats.
At this writing the Ladle menu features such standards as Broccoli Cheddar, Local Clam Chowder, Tomato and Roasted Garlic, Braised Beef Stew, and about five other selections. Served with the soup is Erik’s fresh baked sourdough bread. And available from a covered platter of cookies is indeed one of the best chocolate chip cookies you’ll ever have. They’re filled with Valrhona chocolate, the best French chocolate you can get, and the cookie itself is crisp and loaded with butter and brown sugar.
As for the soups, I’ve sampled the clam chowder and the braised beef stew. The chowder was a thick mélange of clams, bacon, herbs, cream and other goodies. I liked the heavy smoked bacon taste and the dense clam flavor. It’s a thick soup and still perfect for our chilly weather. Perhaps when summer rolls around Ladle will have devised warm-weather soups. Vichyssoise anyone?
The braised beef stew was also wonderful. It had lots of rich beef flavor, good stock, a fine tomato base and it was stick-to-the-ribs wonderful. The sourdough bread is rich, dense and utterly sweetly sour
The room is stark but attractive. There is counter seating and tables, and given its easy concept and great location I’m sure it will be a great success. I’m going back again soon to try the cream of foraged mushroom, if it’s available. But if the truth be told I’ll probably eat my chocolate chip cookie first.
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chowder was good not "the best". Where were the clams I asked myself? Unfortunately it was a trendy "semi pureed" style. Good flavor though. The sourdough was dense and heavy and lacked a proper crust. Also, only 4 soups were available out of their listing. Seems like it will be on a rotation, not all available all the time. Dingy setting but who needs glamour for soup. Only 2 or 3 tables with some counter space. I took mine to go...
Posted by
April 3, 2006 03:41 PM
SOUP kitchen and bread line under one roof- ah say it ain't so. I must try it before it gets too hot outside. Hot soup when it's 90 and humid?
Posted by
PeterApril 3, 2006 04:11 PM
Soup??? I love it...I'll have to check it out this wekend
Posted by
cathyApril 4, 2006 09:55 AM
John, thanks for letting us know about this new place, and for your take on the various soups. But you left out the most important things, like what the average customer was wearing and whether the employees showed you the proper deference. Were the employees and other customers acceptable to thine sight, or did you once again have to suffer for your art to bring us this latest dispatch?
Posted by
Brett WeirApril 4, 2006 12:50 PM
Brett--I was treated like visiting royalty and there wasn't a sore sight anywhere. Ladle draws a swell crowd.
Posted by
April 4, 2006 02:43 PM
“ Soup kitchen and bread line under one roof”
CLASSIC!
John, if you had been treated like royalty it was probably because of your award winning, nationally read restaurant review writings. However, I’m still NOT that taken back by your most recent piece. It continues to read like everything you have written in the past few/grrr all articles. Still the same sh#t about the same restaurants. I know, I know Ladle is a new soup kitchen. But, with the same dam owner/chef you have been in bed with for the past … I’m not sure how long! I will give you some do credit John. If your job is to get people to write about what they read, you have accomplished that. It seems most people and I enjoy reading what other people write more than what you write. So, I guess that means that you may deserve ½ credit, not full. You have also in some side stepped way created a buzz. So I guess that would be another ½ credit. Looks like to me you are doing a good job, if doing 1/10th is a good job. I will continue to read as long as the people get to write how they feel. I will also continue to write as long as the people get to read your Bandol…Soup Kitchen reviews. Should we expect an up coming Fore Street review soon! Or maybe a new word about the Front Room!
Posted by
April 7, 2006 09:42 AM
1/2 credit plus 1/2 credit reads like full credit to me. So not only are your writing skills poor (and spelling I might add) but so is your math. Leave John alone. Blog yourself if you can do better.
Tell us all, what restaurant do you work in that John hasn't covered for you?
Posted by
April 7, 2006 10:27 AM
there skills may be WOW bad!
However, very true!
Posted by
April 7, 2006 12:04 PM
Why are so many of the responses to this blog so hostile? It's a foodie blog! Everyone has opinions but there seem to be quite a few who feel the need to get really personal. I don't know Mr. Golden, but just because he gives an opinion doesn't make it so. That's because taste is subjective. He takes the time to write the blog, and give his take on certain places-if you disagree the least you could do is present your point of contention with some common courtesy. Play nice.
Posted by
JannApril 8, 2006 11:49 AM
like jan said, play nice. John is a smart,savvy guy. He's not "in bed" with the cook at Bandol and Ladle. i am that cook, and I respect his opinion. John responds to what he eats and sees. He called my squab dish "banal" last spring....he was on point. It sure didn't measure up to the 5 course amuse-bouche we sent him. But not because he is John...I didn't know he was who he is until after the meal. I try to treat all guests the same. John really doesn't get the "red carpet treatment" that you all think he gets. I mean...christ....the guy has been there and done that. I'm sure the day that my soup, bread, cookies, or my new restaurant SUCKS he would blatantly let the world know. He's a FOOD WRITER...he has a brain and an opinion. What he is providing to the PPH is a DIARY....we should all be lucky to have John on our side. When he's boring, he's boring. When he's hot,he's hot. More often than not, he's hot and on point. John knows his food, his scene...where he is, where he wants to be, and where he doesn't weant to be.
Posted by
stephanApril 8, 2006 10:47 PM
Vichyssoise? Bleh. A cool Pistou, or a Tomato/Arugula with a swirl of goat cheese. If you insist on seafood? Zarzuela can be fashioned as a cool, if not cold soup and retain all it's sumptuous glory.
Posted by
GeorgeApril 10, 2006 08:28 PM
I for one have been awaiting the opening of ladle for a while and cannot wait to try it. Who doesn't like soup and bread? A really good chowder is hard to achieve. Hold the bacon and leave the skin on the potatos; add garlic, sage, and lemon thyme for a truly refreshing dish.
Enjoy,
Seth
www.mainefoodie.blogspot.com
Posted by
SethApril 14, 2006 03:51 PM
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