Search Maine Yellow Pages 
Log In | Register | Help

Food for Thought
John Golden has written about food for Gourmet, Food and Wine, the New York Times, New York Post, the Daily News and was an editor at Cuisine and publisher of Good Foods Magazine. He now lives in Portland, where he dines out, or searches the area's markets for the best foods to prepare himself.

Blog Index
April 23, 2006
Tasting Notes

Though I haven’t been to any new Portland restaurants recently—because there are none—I have been eating well all over town and here are some of my discoveries and notes.

At Caiola’s, try the antipasto plate, a mix of Mediterranean flavors amongst the various meats, salads and marinated vegetables. Paired with a first course it could be an entire meal. Another dish that I’ve enjoyed there is the Shrimp Romesco, one of those nostalgic preparations that doesn’t show up often.

At Yosaku—and I am not an avid fan of Japanese food—I enjoyed my meal there immensely. The miso soup was not the usual, brown dishwater but loaded with lots of flavor and texture. The bento box for $25 dollar would have been more than enough for two to share. From grilled chicken to tempura, to salads, to crab and avocado rolls and other delectable choices, it’s a good deal and a good meal for those not keen on sushi.


Now that Scales is but a memory and the Portland Market is probably soon to follow in its footsteps (this is an utter tragedy—shame on you City of Portland for putting up with this) good casual lunch spots are a tough choice.

I enjoyed a big bowl of split pea soup recently at David’s on Monument Square, and another time I had the calamari salad that was also very tasty. They also serve one of the best hamburgers in town, made with well charred high quality beef.

Sophia’s on Market Street has become very popular lately. The last time I was there a line had formed out the door. Other times it’s been closed. It’s hard to keep up with their schedule.

I enjoy their soups but they always seem to run out of the day’s offering by 12:30. Ergonomically, dietary correct meals hold sway instead. I like the tuna plate, which comes with canned Italian tuna, their fabulous whole grain or whole wheat bread nicely soaked in good extra virgin olive oil, some roasted peppers, a slice of cheese and a few olives—it all adds up to a pretty filling, satisfying and healthy lunch. Of course their pizzas are nearly legendary and the breads rank among the best in the city.

They have offered some very intriguing looking pastries lately. What is called an old fashioned cheesecake is basically sweet ricotta cheese custard baked on flatbread. I haven’t tried it yet, but it looks pretty good.

Browne Trading is always a good source for the unusual. I recently sampled their hot maple smoked salmon bits, which are sweet, smoky and about as addictive as the perfect potato chip. I’ve had a container of it in my refrigerator for the last few days and it’s a compelling snack.

Rumor has it that various new Portland restaurants are in the planning stage. 100 Congress Street, which has been shuttered for some time, is being taken over by the folks of Café 158. In fact, they bought the building and are working on a restaurant opening by next month. That should be one to watch. With the ongoing popularity of the Front Room and the forthcoming place across the street, diners will be packing the streets of Munjoy Hill, and parking—always a problem there—will become impossible. I guess we can always walk, take the bus or pay for one of Portland’s terrifying cab rides.

Other restaurants on the drawing boards include one on Upper Exchange Street and the Danforth Inn, which is looking to establish a fine dining spot in their beautiful establishment.

For the best ham you’ve ever had, go right to Spring Brook Farm on Greeley Road in Cumberland Center for their smoked leg of pork, a special that they have in the spring. They raise their own pigs, smoke the shanks or legs and produce a beautifully smoked ham that is hog heaven. Their bacon sold out in one day, however, and that’s too bad.

Don’t miss the spring-dug parsnips that are available at the limited early-in-the-season Wednesday farmer’s market on Monument Square or available at either the Whole Grocer or Royal River Foods. It’s the only locally grown root vegetable in Maine that enjoys its best season now. Parsnips benefit from being in the ground all winter and dug up during the spring. The flavor is intense, and it’s a great vegetable that lends itself to many cooking sty les: from purees to gratins, soups, custards, flans, even a pie.

In fact, Caiola’s serves wonderful maple-glazed roasted parsnips accompanying many of their entrees. I’ve ordered it as a separate side dish. And if they’re not on the menu go for the Tater Tots, a monumental re-creation that the original Ore-Ida brand could never achieve.

Other good dining spots for parsnip dishes include Five-Fifty Five and Back Bay Grill.

On the sweet side I’ve been shuttling back and forth between Two Fat Cats and 158 Bakery. Both of these fine establishments offer good old-fashioned cakes, pastries and cookies.

I recently tried the Boston Cream Pie at Two Fat Cats, and it was otherworldly good. It’s a fabulously light yellow cake sandwiching a rich pastry cream and covered with a fine chocolate glaze. The cake nearly melts in your mouth.

At 158 their three layer yellow cake with chocolate sour cream icing is sheer bliss, too, for yellow cake fans. Also their shortbread squares are about the best I’ve ever had—overloaded with rich butter flavor and an impossibly good combination of flakiness and crispness.

A new sweet in town can be found at Maple's Organics. This is one of the few sources for authentic organic ice cream. From the milk, cream, eggs, sugar and other ingredients, everything must be organic. I've had organic ice creams elsewhere and they're not always so good.

But here the flavor and creamy texture rank quite high. I've only sampled the vanilla and the chocolate so far. The chocolate in particular was fabulous and the vanilla text-book good. But there are other flavors, like maple nut, and home-baked cookies, too, which are delicious. They're at 790 Forest Avenue.

What I also long for is some good Mexican food. There are a few new places in South Portland that I’ve tried but they weren’t good enough for a must-go-again visit.

This is the season for wild mushrooms and morels in particular can be found in Maine though none of our food outlets seem to be able to get them. In the past the Portland Greengrocer offered them in season and the Rosement has been trying to find a local supplier. Fore Street—and their in-house forager-- might be the only local source for morels, and perhaps a few other restaurants in town who prevail on Boston’s food sources. But if any of you know of a source, drop me a line.

Posted by John Golden at 10:13 AM

E-mail this entry to a friend

Comments

I thought I saw morels at Royal River a few weeks ago? I might be dreaming this as I was also recently at Pike Place Market in Seattle and almost passed out at the amazing mushroom selection...although quite frankly, I thought more people were admiring the vegetables and fish like it was art, than actually buying it.

Thanks for the reminder about Spring Brook Farm--haven't been there is a long, long time.

Posted by Barbara G
April 23, 2006 11:13 AM

john, do you know when the whole food market is opening?? and how are the plans going for the westin hotel and the restuarant you spoke about. also, the opening of the new bando??

Posted by nick
April 23, 2006 12:38 PM

El Camino, in Brunswick, is more than worth the trip if well made (and tasty) Mexican style food is what you desire. It is the only place that comes to mind. Poco Loco in Kittery is also a good bet, but not a destination.

Posted by
April 23, 2006 12:52 PM

The whole food market is at least a year away from opening. The lot is cleared and it's under construction.

The new Bandol is still in the planning stages.

Posted by John Golden
April 24, 2006 07:04 AM

Mexican? Having lived in the Southwest for over 20 years, my opinion is that one needs to be over the Texas border and heading west to get the good stuff. Don't even think of it up here; the best efforts will never measure up. That goes for food and margaritas.

Posted by Anne
April 24, 2006 10:51 AM

WHAT??? Whole Foods is coming to Portland??? That's AWESOME! Where will they be?

Posted by karin
April 24, 2006 05:36 PM

Whole Foods is going on Franklin Arterial, right in front of Franklin Towers. They have leveled the other buildings there.

The Westin should be busting down the Jordan's building in a few weeks. You can view the building and take a virtual tour of it at
www.livingatthewestin.com

That should have quite a nice restaurant/lounge in it. Also, there will be a restaurant in the Riverwalk development as well, right in front of Oceangate. You can view part of those plans at www.thelongfellow.com

John, I'm pretty sure I've never seen you review Henry VIII's in Monument square. I go there at least 5 times a week. The owner Bruce is the friendliest guy, and the sandwiches are the best you are going to find. Hand carved roast beef, turkey and ham. Henry's is the only place in Greater Portland to receive a Platinum Plate from TV Diner on NECN. Not even Fore Street got that honor.

http://www.boston.com/news/necn/Shows/tv_diner/restaurant_reviews/henryviii/

That doesn't mean that Henry's can be compared to Fore Street, but it means Henry's is the best at what they do.

Posted by Dominic
April 24, 2006 06:20 PM

Dominic, we're on the same bizarro wavelength, apparently:

http://travel.mainetoday.com/fromaway/blog/005615.html

Bruce, he has a fan base!

Posted by Colleen
April 25, 2006 02:15 PM

That's funny Colleen. Now you know you have to eat one. I ate one today and one and a half yesterday. I'm going to have one tommorow too. It's like crack. When I leave, I tell him he's still the king. Half the people that come in there just say "I'll have the usual". That's when you know you have a good business.

Quizno's is opening right next to Longfellow Books in a week or two. This is bad competition for him. David's, Shay's and Henry's are a good trio since they all cater to different people who have different agendas at the time. I don't think Quizno's understands how dead that area becomes after 5.

I am wondering when someone is going to go into the old Angie's building that has been redone. Old Port Sea Grill was close to signing a deal to open up a restaurant in that space, but they wouldn't meet the food/alchohol ratio.

Also, does anyone know what is going into the old Molly's? I remember it was going to be this place called Bar46 which looked like is was going to be a cool place. That place died before it started. I have heard that someone else who currently has a restaurant is going in there. Not sure who.

Posted by Dominic
April 25, 2006 09:31 PM

I do have to get one. I just don't tend to do lunch out much. But now that they're doing dinner, I'll go that route.

Bruce and I were talking about the Quizno's factor and how dead that area is after 5. They're really two different concepts, so who knows how much Quizno's will eat into business. Who knows? With the condos going up around the area, downtown might actually be a little more lively after the offices empty out.

I've been wondering about that Angie's space myself! The facade certainly looks like it was designed for some sort of trendy bar/club/restaurant, but nothing much seems to be happening on the inside.

Posted by Colleen
April 26, 2006 09:54 AM

Try the caesar salad at Caiola's. So good! It's not your classic but actually with a little twist of fried spicy oysters instead of anchovies. Also, enjoy a glass of wine with it. The by-the-glass list is great and the pours are huge. I never get bored with that place because the menu is always changing. I know there's going to be something new and creative to try every time.

Posted by Ellen
April 27, 2006 01:44 PM

Would like folks from Portland and surrounding areas in on the fact that The Good Egg Cafe,the fondly remembered breakfast place on upper Congress St. will finally see a rebirth under the roof of Pepperclub restaurant on Middle St. I have thought about it for sometime now, and with my family's good wishes have decided
to bring back all of my favorite dishes and homemade goodies.I spent the better part of ten years helping my sister and brother run The Good Egg. Lots of good people,great memories and good food. Look for a June opening

Posted by Mary
May 7, 2006 07:23 PM

That sounds great. Is the Pepperclub closing? Or perhaps you meant the same building. More breakfast places are needed intown. The front room is really the only place to get a "clean" full menu breakfast around. That area is where the action will be in the near future so I'm sure you'll do very well.

Posted by Dominic
May 7, 2006 08:52 PM

Pepperclub is NOT closing. We are just expanding our hours to include breakfast 6 days a week(a Good Egg Cafe effort) dinner will still be served 7 days a week, Mary

Posted by Mary
May 8, 2006 07:26 AM

is this blog only run 1-2 times a month now???

Posted by JT
May 10, 2006 12:22 PM

Sorry, folks. NOt able to contribute as much as I'd like but will try to in the future.

Posted by
May 12, 2006 10:59 AM

Hey, what a wonderful discovery! I just stumbled into your blog looking for something else and enoyed reading it. For someone who's been jaded by great retaurants, food stores and farmers' markets in NYC, San Francsico, Europe, etc, I must tell you that Maine -- Portland, in particular, but with places like Primo, the Meeting House, Joshua's in Wells, even old Flo's, etc -- continues to delight and satisfy every gustatory whim I'll ever have.

Posted by Constantine Karvonides
May 27, 2006 11:04 AM

Post a comment









Remember personal info?







Please enter the code as seen in the image above:



Blog Index
Updates
Sign up to be notified when there's a new entry
RSS
Subscribe
Archives
By category