May 25, 2006
By Any Other Name It's Bar Lola
I’ve begun to think that the Portland dining scene has reached a saturation point. Since Caiola’s and the Front Room we haven’t had a new place to praise or bash in months. In fact, new if not exciting eateries around the state have, as far as I know, not appeared.
I still long for something new and exciting to open, whether it’s in Kittery or Bar Harbor. Not that I’d make Kittery a destination for dining, though I have been to Bar Harbor recently where I spent a few nights and endured the feral flush of their off-season dining choices.
If I have two hopes and desires it’s these: that one day someone will open a restaurant that not only serves exciting food but does so in formidable surroundings.
We are a city of start ups, which come and go. Places like Five Fifty-Five who are expanding will endure. Caiola’s—one of my favorite restaurants in Portland--is firmly entrenched as a much in demand neighborhood eatery where the food and dining experience is always top notch. The Front Room has settled into a nice groove.
Of course bastions like Fore Street, the Back Bay Grill, Hugo’s and Cinque Terre represent a standard by which others are judged.
The other qualm I have is that most of our restaurants—even the best—don’t change their menus frequently. For those who dine out often in Portland, you’re apt to be faced with the same chicken or fish dish that you had a week earlier.
All restaurants need to maintain a constant menu as a matter of economy, but would it be so difficult to offer a few nightly specials above and beyond the set bill of fare?
The restaurants in Portland that I go to several times a week do this. Some places tweak their menu, offering a variation on the same dish, perhaps adding a different accompaniment or a slightly altered preparation. That’s OK. But it’s not enough.
Basic menus offer the gamut of beef, chicken, fish and pasta choices. Only a handful of establishments offer lamb or game. And if it’s not haddock, halibut or salmon then you’re apt to think that the sea was empty.
Fore Street probably has the widest choice of seafood dishes. But in a city surrounded by water and in a state enamored by its fishing and waterfront industries, it’s surprising that more variety is not offered in our public dining rooms.
What I’m leading up to is that I’m going to tell you about a new restaurant that has opened in Portland in the last week, one which I had the chance to go to last night.
It’s at the site of the former 100 Congress Street on Munjoy Hill. There have been a series of flops that have inhabited the space since the original 100 Congress left. For some reason, 100 Congress enjoyed a huge following, which I have never been able to figure out.
The last time I was there was on a hot summer’s eve. The restaurant was packed and plagued by a heavy, sultry mist of heat that the one lone air conditioner couldn’t handle.
What made it worse was that they had an entertainer that night-- a young fellow earnestly trying to strum his guitar to the accompaniment of his flat voice as he wailed a bottomless ode. Adding insult to injury, he was stationed on a high chair right in front of the air conditioner.
I remember wanting to leave before out first course arrived. It wasn’t until the singer took a break, leaving his perch that it ever cooled down in the room.
100 Congress is now called Bar Lola. It’s been painted and decorated and remains a pleasing looking neighborhood hangout. Remembering my last time there I looked around for central air conditioning vents and found none. Instead there were lots of ceiling fans, and perhaps they inherited the window unit from the last establishment. If so it hasn’t been installed.
The difference though is the menu is a highly conceived list of dishes created by Café One Fifty-Ate’s Josh Potocki and his assisting chefs. Apparently he and his partners bought the building. If you're not familiar with 158, it offers some pretty adventuresome dining, albeit in a shaggy low-down joint that has tremendous appeal if you want to go off the beaten track.
Here the menu is fairly compelling, too. Consider these choices: Morel Custard with Pea Puree; Pan Seared Asparagus with Lavender Syrup; Cucumbers with Feta, Dill and Roast Lamb; Braised Pork with Grit Cake and Sweet and Sour Cabbage.
The menu is broken down into parts: small, medium, salad and large. You’re meant to have a four course dinner. The portions are tapas size. It sounds like a lot of food, but no plate is bigger than about 4 inches around.
The aforementioned was my dinner last night. The custard is actually a morel puree set on toasts as is the pea puree. It’s an interesting concept, and the flavors were outstanding.
The seared asparagus were highly flavorful; the spears were so bright with taste I wonder if they weren’t local since they’re fleetingly in season now. The cucumber dish was a bit disappointing. The lamb was dry and bland, and I didn’t enjoy the concept. Still I finished my Lilliputian plate in no time. The pork was wonderful set in a lively contrast of the sour cabbage and the slightly sweet grit cake, which really was more like a mush.
For dessert there were such choices as Roasted Fig Newtown, Vanilla Gelato with a Shot of Espresso, something called Chocolate Love, Orzo Pudding and Rhubarb Custard Galette.
I had the figs, and my dinner mate tried the rhubarb. They were very sweet and tasty though not my favorites.
My companion’s dinner consisted of marinated vegetables, tuna Pataki, sautéed fiddle heads and the pappardelle with favas and pecorino. These were all first rate, especially the tuna, quickly pan seared and coated in sesame.
Quite frankly I‘ve never succumbed to the pleasures of fava beans, which are served everywhere. I’d much rather have fresh lima beans, which are sweeter and not so coarse. But fava beans have been the rage for some years now, favored as much by chefs who serve us hangar steak ad nausea.
Bar Lola is a neat addition to the Munjoy Hill topography. It’s small, intimate, jolly and fun--a place that one can go to occasionally when you’re in the mood for something different.
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I don't think that most of us mere mortals are dining out weekly, much less several times a week! If I were to go to my favorites in Portland more than once a week, I'd quickly need to declare bankrupcy...
Posted by Alisa
May 25, 2006 08:35 AM
A price range for the menu offerings would be a nice addition to your reviews.
Posted by
AnneMay 25, 2006 08:44 AM
dinner for two, with a cocktails was about $120 each dish is anywhere from 3 to 14, depnding whether it's small plates or large.
The morel puree was $4; tuna,$9;cucumbers,$7, pork $12, pappardelle, $12, desserts $5
Posted by
John GoldenMay 25, 2006 10:49 AM
Uffa! is currently hiring for a full time server position. We are looking for someone with knowledge of food, wine/varietals, bartending and at least 3 years experience working in bistros or fine dining restaurants.
Email resumes to James@uffarestaurant.com no phone calls please.
Thank-you,
Chef James
Posted by
James TranchemontagneMay 25, 2006 11:24 AM
Chef J should be flogged for posting a job ad here.
Posted by M.
May 25, 2006 03:01 PM
Favas are a favorite of in the spring because they are one of the earliest garden legumes, sometimes as early as the begining of June. One mid-coast farmer I know has favas ready to go even before English peas. After a mud-season full of roots, ramps, and lifeless vegetables from away, favas are a welcome tonic. Lima cultivars tend to be less hardy and come mid-summer, and frankly, they're hard to sell.
Posted by
May 25, 2006 06:33 PM
M,
If you check the previous post it is actually the second job ad he has posted here.
James
This is maintoday.com
not:
Craigslist.com
Posted by
May 25, 2006 08:04 PM
Well, it explains why he can't find anyone--he's an idiot.
Posted by M.
May 26, 2006 05:40 AM
Who cares. This is a forum for Portland food discourse isn't it?
Golden complains about the lack of new dining options but all we ever hear about are the same establishments over and over (one more mention of Fore Street or Oolong and I'll shoot myself).
Do you just not write about places you find to be mediocre or downright bad? I can think of so many places (many decent) that you NEVER mention. It's not your job to be a critic, and maybe you don't want to offend, but intersting stories can be had from mediocre/bad dining experiences....
Posted by
GoldielocksMay 26, 2006 11:18 AM
To suggest to flogged (are you sure you know what that means?) me or call me and idiot is inaccurate.
Perhaps you do not like me or my restaurant and that is fine. That is what is great a about Portland. There is a spot and a place for everyone.
“Food for Thought” in the passed have mentioned new chefs, restaurant expansions, new restaurants/bars being built and guest chef dinners. As a businessman, I saw an opportunity to target the local geographic of talented Portland hospitality workers. It has worked with over 20 resume set to me. I recommend it for other chefs.
Most of my staff have been with me for 2-3 years, but like every restaurant at times you need to hire. That is reality not idiotism.
What is mostly unfortunate is your strong stance you take, with an unwillingness to sign your name. It is easy to take inaccurate cheap shots at people, businesses or ideas especially went you hide behind the letter M.
At least I sign my full name and hide behind nothing.
What do people here know about you? Perhaps you use to work for one of the other owners of Uffa! before we bought, maybe you applied and I never pick-up your resume, you could be another chef, owner or worker trying to hurt our business to help out yours, maybe you’re a girl(from back in the day), I promised to call and didn’t or just a plain blog purist.
I don’t know you so I can’t tell but stand up, be real, if you insult/praise someone on their business give reason and sign your real name. Less then that is liable in my opinion.
Thank-you,
Chef James
Uffa! Restaurant
Posted by
James TranchemontagneMay 26, 2006 12:03 PM
I read the column all the time and have never posted....but I just felt inspired to tell Chef James that I really can't wait to eat at his restaurant! I have heard wonderful things and have not made it there yet, but I certainly intend to.
And John - I enjoy reading your blogs when you post them...I actually get really antsy when we don't hear from you for a while! Thanks for all the great food tips.
Posted by
AllisonMay 26, 2006 12:53 PM
I agree with Chef James. There is nothing wrong with putting the word out there. Many people who work in the restaurant business look at this site often. You never know what opportunity might present itself if you don't put yourself out there. I would hardly call a man who has brought the new Uffa! up from scratch with his own bare hands an idiot. There are very few people who would be willing to work as hard, and be as passionate about what they do for a living as James.
It is never right to personally attack and remain annonymous. If you have something to say grow some balls and say it.
Posted by Heidi Baribeau
May 26, 2006 01:09 PM
I do know the definition of flogging, but thank you for the assitance. And, I'm none of your guesses from above nor have I ever dined in any variation of Uffa!, though it has honestly been on the list to try. And your response gets bonus points for being damn funny.
Perhaps my choice of the word 'idiot' was a little harsh--and for that I apologize. But, when I saw your ad, I saw it as no different from any other 'spamming' that occurs very often on forums. I posted absently and, without use of an edit button, I guess I'll just enjoy my meal of crow. Because, now that I think of it, we as advid diners plug away for other restaurants and you're just doing your own bit of 'plugging.'
Plug away Chef John and good luck in the employee search.
Posted by M.
May 26, 2006 05:25 PM
Again, no edit button. I meant Chef James.
Posted by M.
May 26, 2006 05:26 PM
Now why would I want to go to restaurants that are bad or mediocre so I could write about them amusingly with well placed swipes about common fare? Spare me the priviledge.
I have gone to restaurants that turn out to be awful and I say so. This is a diary, a dining and food blog that takes me where I want to go.
YOu would probably love it if I wrote about Fore Street or any other of the predictable places in town and panned it mercilessly. Now that would be newsy and fun and worth reading.
Can I help it that Portland is a small city and the world is a large one?
Posted by
John GoldenMay 26, 2006 10:27 PM
John, i would have to disagree with you. you have missed or not talked about several decent-good restuarants. You talk often about the the all-time most overrated standard food restuarant in fore st. Check the trip advisor and see what readers reviews say about it! You have missed such good establishments as Davids,mad apple, aurora provisions,rivalries(best wings in town),inn by the sea, black point inn. All the above are pretty good worth a trip. There are several more. flatbread pizza,ricettas? by the way who makes your favorite pizza in town? I would be interested in your opinion of the above. I enjoy reading your blog and don't mind your mention of your favorites (except fore st) but let us know you opinion of others. I've been to all the above several times and your favorites and I can tell you all can be hit or miss at times; branch out and let us know about it
Posted by steve
May 27, 2006 08:14 AM
ONe of these days I will write about David's. It's in the gestation stage. I do in fact go there for lunch often and think the menu is very creative and the preparations are good.
I don't eat pizza often--I have to cut the line somewhere. I do like flatbread's and of course Sophia's is the best.
I'm surprised you mention Inn by the Sea. Last time I was there it was awful. Has it changed? Same goes for Black Point Inn.
As for Aurora, I go there almost every day for something.
Posted by
John GoldenMay 27, 2006 12:11 PM
It seems like the same issues over and over with this column....I'm bored. I wish John Golden luck in his next endeavor and hope to see a fresh outlook in this space in the future.
Posted by
kerryMay 28, 2006 10:12 AM
How do you know a restaurant is bad or mediocre until you actually go to it? And why do you assume that these places serve, *aghast*, "common fare"?
Posted by Goldielocks
May 29, 2006 10:14 AM
Ahhh, time to add a new post and kill this thread. Seems to be how it works.
I saw that Soffritos is now called Calypso or something like that. Why do people keep opening up in the same place something else failed in?
Quizno's is open in Monument Square. I guess they don't have a dress or shower code to work there. Luckily Henry VIII's has seen no decline in business. I give that Quizno's less than a year. That area is so dead after 5ish. They are also opening up one in the new plaza next to the new Lowe's on Brighton Avenue. Might be bad for Full Belly Deli.
Shay's has been bought by a guy from out of state. He wants to make some changes to it. Not sure what yet. The public market vendors taking over the old Surplus Store will make that section of buildings much more attractive and lively.
And in case someone didn't know, Angelone's was the first pizza in Maine. When they interviewed my grandfather in an old newspaper article, they had the pronounciation of pizza(peet-zah) next to it. Just a random fact to end this post.
Posted by
DominicJune 1, 2006 09:45 PM
Steve, the best pizza in Portland is served at the Pizza Joint on Forest Ave. It must be ordered a specific way, however: no bigger than 14 inches, with "easy cheese" and cooked crispy.
Posted by CJ
June 2, 2006 09:41 AM
I was just wondering about Angelone's the other day when I realized Portland Pie is moving in down the street.
Posted by
June 2, 2006 12:37 PM
I love reading this stuff you folks of Portland (and environs) spew...what drivel! As a NYer who loves to travel to Maine,in general, and Portland, specifically, I look forward to hearing about new restaurants. But, what I do get enough of here in the City (NY Mag, et al) is this mindless banter that has nothing to do with the topic of discussion and segues to so many different tangents that you forget what the original topic was actually discussing.
Stick to restaurant reviews and the associated dialog. Next thing you know, there will be Brittany and Paris sightings on Exchange Street!
Posted by
Sal AlbarelliJune 2, 2006 02:04 PM
Steve,
Your post makes it clear why we don't like people "from away". Next time, stay in NYC...or visit New Hampshire...
Posted by mjc
June 2, 2006 05:35 PM
oopps...I meant Sal...guess my mindless banter makes me forgetful...
Posted by mjc
June 2, 2006 05:36 PM
Brittany, Paris, Llyon....Aix en Provence....Orange, Perigord....Bandol, Bordeaux...Can they all fit on Exchange St??
I hear Bandol is hiring for a new building....send resumes to....
Posted by
June 2, 2006 08:26 PM
Portland Pie Company is moving into a rather large space down the road. That area is really getting a makeover. They revealed the plans in the Press Herald today for the two 7 story condos/retail buildings right behind the Portland Pie building. This would be unheard of in Westbrook a few years ago.
As far as taking away from Angelone's business, I don't think so. We've sold just pizza for many years and still have lines out the door. No subs, no salads, no wings, just pizza. Not even credit cards. We don't advertise or have specials. I'm not trying to hype up my family's business, but it just seems that we never get love in any press. I will say that the only other pizza I will pay money for is at Flatbread. I've probably eaten over 10,000 pizzas in my life so that's a compliment to them.
Speaking of Westbrook, I really like Chicky's. They have a great scene, really good food for that venue, and a newly built music room. I applaud him for trying to bring something different to Westbrook. He could have easily put that in Portland and all the hipsters would have packed the place every night. I think Rookies will be the place to close in that block of town.
Is that food related enough for you?
Posted by
DominicJune 2, 2006 09:05 PM
I think Chickey's is awesome and one of the best places to see live music. Westbrook is become a cooler and cooler city by the months. I ment Chickey at the phenoix award show(we both donated food tables). A very nice guy.
I have tho say the best pizza in Portland is Pizza Villa. It is so good, their wings are great too!
James
Posted by
JamesJune 3, 2006 12:49 PM
What is an MJC? How many people who live in Portland (or Maine, for that matter) are from Maine...three? My family was living in Miane (Augusta) before someone thought of the cute, hackneyed term "from away." MJC is probably a transplant from Brookline or Chestnut Hill; right after moving from Ohio.
Posted by Sal Albarelli
June 6, 2006 12:42 PM
For a New Yorker who presumably knows everything, you ask an awful lot of questions. MJC is someone's initials. Do you have another thought on the subject? If so I'd love to hear it or do you prefer not to get an internet beating in a "New York minute"?
Posted by From away and loving it
June 8, 2006 11:13 PM
My wife and I ate at BarLola last night and thought it was fantastic..John was right-on with the Tuna Pataki, it was one of my favorites. I also had Stella's Manhattan to start off the evening with and then had a really good glass of the house red. I loved all of the little pickled items and am glad that they accompany the wide-range of the main dishes. The pappardelle was good and light with the fava beans giving a nice earthy flavor to give it some teeth. I had the bistecca (which was cooked perfectly: rare/mid-rare) as well, and got that good pinching pain in the jowels when you bite into a nice cut of meat that perfectly melds the extra saliva and "ballsy"sauce together. Nice job BarLola, we'll back again and again.
Posted by
June 24, 2006 02:22 PM
my post didn't include my name...
Posted by
shane deubenJune 24, 2006 02:24 PM
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