September 22, 2006
Chebeague Island Inn
I have two regrets concerning the Chebeague Island Inn. One is that it will be closing by Columbus Day for the season and I’ll have to wait until next year to enjoy it again; and my second gripe is that I wish it had an off-season counterpart on the mainland--to enjoy the wonderful ambiance and food that I experienced at this magical island outpost several weeks ago.
The renovation of this stately old building is superb, and the dining room, which had its fits and starts last year, runs like a dream now. What struck me about the food this time was its simplicity and goodness.
The chef, Terry Foster, is a pro who’s found his niche in a place that others might think too remote to make a difference in a chef’s repertoire. I experienced his cooking often when he ran the dining room at the Pilgrim’s Inn on Deer Isle. Those dinners in the elegant barn room were superb: perfectly roasted racks of lamb and other staples of American fare were always well executed.
The menu is not gimmicky or foolish. There are no inscrutable sauces or dishes shrouded in mystery.
I started with a corn and crabmeat chowder that was just thick and rich enough without falling into the brink of culinary disrepair.
My main course was a highly flavorful herb scented pork sirloin that was grilled and swathed in a silken reduction spiked with Calvados and peaches. I particularly liked the mashed parsnip and braised leeks that accompanied it.
Some menus around town are too complicated, and it’s a relief to dine on expertly prepared food that is developed on ease of flavor.
There were six of us that evening that made the trek, which took place on one of the foggiest nights of the summer--even the ferry felt like it was poking through foreign waters.
Since we were a large enough group we got the chance to sample much of the menu. Like the beautifully prepared mussels that are served housed in a dish of little compartments for each mussel; the grilled Caesar salad, duck confit, smoked salmon were all beautifully prepared.
The menu has changed slightly since I was there and represents more fall-like selections. I just might make it out there again to try the Maine lobster and chanterelle soup or the tantalizing notion of carrot and ginger puree with chestnuts, celeriac and honey; or any of the main courses like marinated brochettes of lamb and artichoke or Wolf Neck beef tenderloin that’s accompanied by a leek and artichoke strudel and roasted tomatoes.
Lately I’ve noticed that the food served in many of our best restaurants is too heavily salted. Chefs love salt and use it as generously as a down poor in the garden. Here at this island dining room I recall the taste of the food, purely and simply, rather than going through mats of salt that seem to reduce otherwise good cooking into misadventure.
Places like Back Bay, Caiola’s, Primo, Cinque Terre and others offer the kind of enticing, straight forward menus that don’t make dining out a chore or battleground of ingredients. The Inn has joined the group and I wish it was open to serve us year-round.
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Completely unrelated...but any word on when Bandol is going to be re-opening? It was such a gem in the Portland dining scene and I very much hope that we haven't lost it forever!
Posted by
AlisaSeptember 22, 2006 08:27 AM
My family and I dined at The Chebeague Inn on an August evening this summer. The food was delicious and the young lady who served us provided an outstanding discription of each food item offered. We were a group of nine, which had the opportunity to sample many of the apetizers, entrees and desserts. Each item deserved the publisher worthy gushing of our delightfully trained server. We look forward to dining at the Inn in 2007.
Posted by
MarySeptember 23, 2006 08:12 AM
I wish I knew about the island restaurant a little earlier in the season. Thanks for the heads up for next year.
What kind of impact do you think The Keg Steakhouse will have on the downtown dining scene?
http://www.kegsteakhouse.com/
I know it is taboo to talk about chains on here, but a representative of the company was at the last city council meeting to announce they want to go into the new addition that is being built behind Old Port Sea Grill. Part of that 6 story glass addition. They would be right next door to Fore St.
I love local places, but to be honest, I think this is just what downtown needs. I have asked people about the Keg and many have said how great it is. I know John is always talking about a wide open restaurant. This could be a fun place that we do not have downtown. Everything is a little too serious. This may bring some of the mall money into our city. I think it will only help Old Port Sea Grill and I don't think it will hurt Fore St. I wasn't a huge fan of TGIF when it was intown, but at least it was a fun place to hang out.
Anyone ever been to one of these?
Posted by
DominicSeptember 25, 2006 01:35 AM
I don't know a thing about the Keg restaurant chain but it doesn't sound too exciting to me, especially to locate in a prominent downtown location. Wouldn't it be better to have a Palm restuarnat or other so called upscale chain steak house restaurant than a mediocre (I'm sure) rendition of a mall type eatery.
Posted by
September 25, 2006 06:37 AM
I'm curious as to why John thinks this place is mediocre compared to the more "upscale" steak chains.
Was it the website? The name? It surely wasn't the food....
Posted by Mr. Keg
September 25, 2006 04:30 PM
Most of what I gather from people, this place is very very good and it's prices are very reasonable. They put about 2-3 million into each one they open. This is not some chucky cheese gimmick place.
Look, local first, I know. But I really think it would be nice to have a big huge fun wide open place with a lot of money put into it, big bar area, decent food at decent prices. Something I can bring my dad to without having to hear him get mad because a potato doesn't come with the meal. Let's take some of that mall money back from South Portland. Just a bit.
Here's a menu.
http://www.niagararestaurantguide.com/the-keg/menu.shtml
Posted by
DominicSeptember 26, 2006 01:35 AM
When people talk about "local", what does that really mean?
The restaurant isn't owned by a "local" group sure, but don't they employ "local" people? Do those people then go out and spend money elsewhere in the "local" area?
Isn't that a good thing? Isn't that of value?
Posted by Mr. Keg
September 26, 2006 04:32 PM
any investment is better than none- but a local business usally returns much more of it's money into the community than a national chain- something like 44 % for local vs 14 % for national. Thats why supporting local is important
Posted by stevieb
September 28, 2006 11:33 AM
I don't believe it. Show me the study.
Posted by Mr. Keg
September 28, 2006 02:27 PM
Mr. Keg
Have a little motivation and curiosity. It took me one minute to find the study.
The link below will send you to a study that claims that 50 cents of every dollar is returned to the community in locally owned businesses and only 14 cents of every dollars is returned to the community in chains
The Economic Impact of Locally Owned Businesses vs. Chains
A Case Study in Midcoast Maine
http://www.newrules.org/retail/midcoaststudy.pdf
Posted by
September 28, 2006 07:21 PM
Dude, you kidding me? This "study" was done by an outfit called the "Institute for Local Self-reliance" (in cahoots with "Friends of Mid-Coast Maine").
Thats like getting facts on lung cancer from a tobacco company.
Posted by Phillip Morris
September 28, 2006 10:05 PM
I think you should take a look at the study and judge it on its merits rather than dismiss it because it was conducted by an organization that has a bias. We don't know which local businesses they chose, or why, or which business they chose to exclude. But the findings make sense. National chains are more likely to contract with out-of-state suppliers, and profits are more likely to be invested elsewhere. The specific percentages might be open to question, but I'd be surprised if the conclusion weren't true.
Posted by George
September 29, 2006 04:19 PM
Here's another study: 90% of facts written by people named "George" in online blogs are untrue.
Come on folks. Apply the scientific method. Here's another blatant error in their "study" -- they compared locals vs ONE, I repeat, ONE national chain.
Not a very diverse group to draw from.
Oh, here's another gem: They also admit to making up the numbers for that one national chain since data, at the local level, doesn't exist.
Come on!!
Posted by Sam Walton
September 29, 2006 04:40 PM
keep it civil...george is always right. shut up, sam.
Posted by your mom
September 29, 2006 07:38 PM
I'm suspicious.
They claim in the menu to sear their steaks in order to "lock in the natural juices." Everyone knows this is completely untrue and that searing a steak will only give it color, texture, and some caramelization.
A steakhouse that makes claims like this in their menu to sell more product should really check their facts beforehand.
With that said, I'll still probably try it out when it opens.
Posted by
October 9, 2006 11:04 AM
John, just wondering if you know what happened to the previous chef from late last summer. My wife and I took the Portland ferry in twice, early in the season and then late September. We thought the menu and food quality had improved drsticaly although service was at times a bit scarce. Good to hear the Inn is doing so well.
Posted by curious
October 10, 2006 01:16 PM
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