Sometimes location means everything-- but not always. Last night, along the seamier stretches of Congress Street, Portland’s love affair with 555 simmered unabated. At 7:45 we entered a packed room. Not a tourist in sight.

Fore Street, move over.

It was Portland’s night on the town. OK, some of the burbs were there too. A doctor from Yarmouth. An attorney from Scarborough. A dowager from Falmouth.

It makes me very happy that 555 continues to shine in an environment that occasionally seems dull. Good food brings hungry, loyal patrons.

Their carpaccio—they call it Steak and Cheese--is the best in town. I love the perfectly cut paper-thin slivers of beef, slender shavings of Parmesan and a crunchy kick of fried capers tickled with a touch of truffle oil. It’s a great dish with more ballyhoo than bacon and eggs.

I had the Pork Two Ways. That’s the thing, you know--multiple versions of a modest staple. Pork two ways, duck three ways, lamb seven ways? Need I count? Butter-tender slices of pork tenderloin were swathed in rich pan juices, coddled by a compote of dates and fennel, just the right condiment as though it were mustard, which instead found its way into those little whole-grain mustard dumplings sitting so primly on the plate Did I mention the pork belly? Well, I ate the meaty side of the belly. Those genetically disposed to being unaffected by fatty foods could devour the whole thing with unchecked passion. I poked it judiciously.

For dessert, we shared the beignets. Oh, they were good, with raspberries and ice cream. Dinner was just so fine, like a sensible feast for the fearless. I couldn’t have asked for a better meal.

I wish cookbooks were published in two versions. One should be in a large coffee-table format, with thick, glossy pages and beautiful photography. The other could be as a companion book, in a more practical design that adapts well to use easily in the kitchen.

In this way you can leave the fancy one on a table for display or leisurely fireside reading; then it’s not so critical if the “kitchen edition” gets messed up a little from normal kitchen witchery.

This is what I thought when I received as a Christmas present the new Thomas Keller cookbook, “Bouchon.” Oh, no, I thought, another gorgeous book that’s too good—and too big-- to use in the kitchen, where it will be prone to stains, spills and other innocent cooking mishaps.

Keller’s claim to fame is his growing restaurant dynasty. It started with the French Laundry (also the name of his first cookbook), that citadel of fine dining in the Napa Valley. Bouchon is the name of his new Napa Valley restaurant that’s next door, the bistro version to its haughtier neighbor. There’s another Bouchon in Las Vegas and finally the highly regarded Per Se in the Time Warner building in New York.

Bandol is very much alive and well in Portland, Maine. That it manages to endure the enigma of conventional taste is testimony that Portland has evolved to support such aspirations. And what are those aspirations exactly? Nothing less than beautifully conceived and elegantly presented French fare in a setting that is as spare as heightened minimalism nestled along the quaintness of Upper Exchange Street.

Most local critics have skidded past the intricacies of Bandol chef/proprietor Erik Desjarlais’s efforts because they are essentially not easy to decipher. It’s hard to know exactly how he prepares such graceful minutiae as his cassoulet or braised lamb’s tongue or a silken puree awash with white truffles.

Sometimes I wish I could go there for a fabulous single dish, or even a course or two rather than the whole gilded event.

But that would defeat the purpose of dining at Bandol. Desjarlais’s mantra is to serve opulent fare in the guise of simplicity. Often compared to Hugo’s, the two establishments are defined by fundamentals only. Hugo’s Rob Evans interprets the American genre in a brilliant way whereas Desjarlais is transporting the classics of French cuisine to incredible highs.

Restaurants like 158 don’t generally appeal to me. But in this case I loved it. Usually, I’m not attracted to dining establishments that have cute, homespun settings, funky décor and ambiance.

The moment we walked in we were instantly charmed. The low, soft lighting was soothing and inviting. The gas fireplace, which seemed to be the only heat source, cast an amiable glow across the room We knew immediately that we were going to like being here. Who wouldn’t, with such wonderful smells coming from the open kitchen?

The small room was nearly full. This is to say that about 20 people had assembled to sample the weekend-only dining hour. It was very clear that this was a neighborhood crowd from South Portland and Cape Elizabeth.

158 has a liquor license to serve beer and wine. In this case there was a choice of one red or one white wine. We had the red, something called Lunedi, a generic wine from Italy. I was all set to hate it. But it was fairly good, if not unusual, with its sweet-dry-fruity run along the palate. Eventually, our waitress told us, their wine offerings will grow. I wonder if they shouldn’t maintain a tight, discerning list of some very likable red Zinfandels and California Chardonnays.

If the idea of a funky, offbeat restaurant is appealing to you, I’ve found just the right one. If it also happens to be on an obscure, lifeless, dark street in South Portland, and housed in a squat building that looks more like a storage shed than a temple of tempting fine food, then it’s either going to be fabulous or just a scary ordeal.

Somehow I think it’s going to be fabulous.

The establishment in question is 158, in South Portland. I haven’t had dinner there yet-- at this gastronomic newcomer to the evening meal. They’ve been around for a long while as a place to stop in and have breakfast or lunch. It’s owned by the same folks (with the same name) who whip up incredible breads, cakes and pastries over on Willard Square.

I went there for lunch the other day, not knowing what to expect. It’s a grim room but warm and cozy. The lunch menu is basically creative salad and sandwich offerings. I had the tuna melt.

My standards for a good tuna melt are the following: It should be prepared like a grilled cheese sandwich-- put on a hot, greasy grill and weighed down by one of those weights that restaurants use to flatten such sandwiches. What emerges is crispy, buttery toast with the cheese oozing nicely over the tuna salad. The only gripe I have is most places don’t cook the sandwich long enough. When it’s served, the tuna salad is still cold while the rest of the sandwich is hot.

At 158 they do it right. It was served on their terrific bakery-made country loaf—two enormous slices housing a zesty tuna salad. Here the tuna was almost scalding hot. In the world of melts, this was a great tuna melt.

I’m looking forward to dinner there tonight. The menu seems promising, if not ambitious. Here’s a sampling.

Caramelized onion pie
Baked ricotta with spinach
Oysters Rockefeller
Pulled chicken and almond dumplings in parsley broth
Seared trout in a cornmeal crust with blackeyed pea salad and country ham
Hand cut pasta tossed with chard, walnuts and blue cheese
Braised pork over homemade noodles

Mom’s cream puffs
Blackbottom banana cream pie
Aunt Marty’s cheesecake.

The most expensive entrée is $12.

I’ll let you know.

Other notable meals I've had in the past several days have included dinner at Bandol, which continues to be as good as it gets and a lively time and wonderful meal at 555 last night.

A very promising new restaurant has opened recently in Camden. It's called Natalie's, and I had a terrific lunch there today. It overlooks the waterfall at the Mill complex. It's a large and beautiful restaurant offering really inventive, creative, elegant fare. I'll go into more detail on all of these restaurants in the coming days.

I always plan a schedule of cooking tasks when I start to prepare for a large dinner such as the holiday menu mentioned in my previous entry. Here is the order in which I prepared the various courses.

As you can see the menu builds on the idea of comfort food, which is always appreciated this time of year.

If you have any questions or comments on these recipes please feel free to drop me an email or post a comment for the general readership to see.

Buttermilk Biscuits
Buttermilk Cake
Baked Beans
Braised Cabbage
Puree of Parsnips with Mushrooms
Roast Pork

Hors d’ oeuvres

The biscuits were actually done the day before. While I prefer to serve them hot from the oven, it proved easier to do beforehand.

I started preparations about 8 in the morning. The cake was done first, giving it plenty of cooling time after baking before being frosted.

The beans required the most time in the oven, about 5 to 6 hours. They were out of the oven at about 3 pm. During that time the cabbage was prepared and then put in the oven to braise.

The pureed parsnips can be made well ahead of time, kept in a covered pot to which I put a buttered piece of wax paper over the puree to keep it from drying.

The pork went in around 5 pm. I had 2 shank halves, each about 6 pounds. It cooks at about 15 to 20 minutes per pound.

The hors d’ oeuvres were prepared last.

Was it modern Yankee spirit or inspired marketing savvy that led Boston’s Ritz Carlton Café to offer a $42 burger on their lunch menu? Granted, hotel food is often expensive. But this seemed excessive.

The only restaurant I know that offers such a pricey patty is New York’s Old Homestead, that venerable Ninth Avenue landmark steakhouse in the meat-packing district. Their version is the $41 Kobe Burger. It’s made entirely from Kobe beef derived from Japan’s prized exotic cattle. The beef is highly marbleized, as rich as foie gras, and can cost upwards of $300 per pound for the real thing.

I was fairly surprised to see such a trendy item on the Brunch Menu at the Ritz last Sunday. Their rendition was a New England version appropriately called The Lobster Burger.

As soon as I saw it on the menu, I knew I had to have it, even if the price was obscenely high. I wanted to see how it would compare with a similar offering at the Union Square Café in New York. Theirs, made with tuna, is utterly unique and wonderful but not nearly as costly. Would lobster meat benefit in the same way?

My companion ordered a modest dish of corned beef hash for $16. I figured that averaging out the price of our two entrees wouldn’t be so untenable.

I like the Ritz because it’s convenient, comfortable and gracious. I go there frequently when I’m in Boston. The food is good and I love its urbane view of the Common and Public Garden. If I have any complaint, it’s that the service, though attentive and congenial, is often slow and plodding.

We waited nearly 30 minutes for our lunch. The hash came first. Then after a dramatic pause, as though a curtain was being raised, my epic burger was center stage.

Standing about a foot tall, a towering giant, it was way too large for the bun. It was loosely balanced on what amounted to a chef’s erector set of French fries. These were no ordinary fries, either. The potatoes had been cut to look like 2-by-4s, oven-baked and arranged in a criss-cross pattern as support for this prodigious monster.

It was remarkable. So, too, was the sudden silence in the dining room as everyone watched the waiter carefully guide This Thing to my table.
Needless to say, I was fairly embarrassed, all eyes upon us.

Was it worth all the fuss and expense?

I hoisted the burger off the potatoes, discarded the top half of the bun and began to eat this wondrous edible with knife and fork.

It was delicious. It was exotic.

What made it so? It was mixed with miso-glazed caramelized onions, pickled cucumbers and a wasabi aoli. The burger was as thick as meatloaf. But something was missing. I could detect many flavors, but lobster was not one of them. Perhaps too many strong spices were thrashing about, masking the underlying ingredient. And I couldn’t figure out what was holding it together.

For $42 I hoped that it wasn’t bound with breadcrumbs or other fillings like overwrought crab cakes. I continued to nibble away, ate some of the boulder-like fries, also wonderful, and somehow managed to finish most of my lobster burger.

Though I enjoyed it very much, I was very perplexed by it. The color was not that of lobster but had, instead, a beige, almost-brownish tinge, as though some other meat was present.

When the waiter came to clear our plates away I asked him how the burger was prepared. I wasn’t ready for his answer. “It’s made with tuna steak... and some lobster.”

You mean I just consumed a tuna burger for $42? I thought, outraged.

Ultimately, I suppose, there’s nothing better than the purity of a classic lobster roll.

What could I do? I ordered it. It was delicious. I enjoyed it tremendously but would have liked it more at half the price. And in a perfect world it should have been.

I have nothing against Eggspectations. But if I were forced to find immediate fault with it, I’d point to the silliness of its name, the bleakness of its surroundings, and its hard-as-rock chairs that resemble booths made to look like park benches.

Is there anything I truly like about Eggspectations? Not really. The truth is I should never have gone. I have a built-in prejudice against places like these. I find them neither here nor there -- something for everyone and nothing really good for anyone. What the social observer might deem "mediocre."

There are plenty of chain restaurants I do like. Anytime someone asks me to go to Bugaboo Creek, I go and manage to enjoy everything I eat. I may feel like hell afterwards, fat as a moose and woebegone for a while. But devouring the Bunyan Onion or Whitewater Shrimp and platter-size steaks is darn good eating.

To be fair, I’ve only been to Eggspectations once. I probably will never go again unless someone convinces me that I was hasty to pass judgment so quickly. I think my experience was that I picked the wrong dish, and perhaps other choices would have fared better.

My first glimpse of the spiral- bound menu did not bode well for what was to come. Spiral bound? And so thick too. That only meant one thing. This was a menu requiring a lifetime of studying because of so many choices.

You can go to a restaurant for the first time and decide right away if it’s good or not by ordering something typical of its cuisine. For example, if you’re in an Italian restaurant, order the lasagna. If it’s good, chances are everything else will be too.

At a classic French restaurant, order something simple like roast chicken or Dover sole, just as you might order a hamburger or tuna salad sandwich at a diner. If they’re prepared well, it figures that the rest of the menu will follow suit.

The obvious choice here would have been eggs. But I don’t eat eggs very often since I watch my cholesterol. As I said, I shouldn’t have been eating here at all. Yet I’ve been curious about the place for some time. After all, it stands tall like a sentry over the Maine Mall, with such regal comportment amidst one of the widest intersections in the state. I just had to see for myself what it was all about.

Eggspectations hails from Montreal, a great restaurant city, and has crossed our border to establish a growing chain of restaurants along the east coast. My impression was that it was some sort of French-inspired rotisserie or bistro. Egg dishes are its handle, and from there, I thought, we are transported down an international fairway of interesting food choices.

I went there a few Sundays ago for brunch. There was a 30-minute wait, which we decided not to endure. But the place had buzz -- good vibes, if you will -- and the aromas coming out of the kitchen seemed promising.

I returned last week for lunch, arriving at about 2 pm. The room was still fairly busy, and everyone looked attractive. There was a table of 10 middle-aged women, in suburban finery, looking as though they were having a good time. Other tables had young mothers and children. And there were a few pairs of blue-suited businessmen scattered about.

I was tended to immediately by a very pleasant and able waiter. He asked what I wanted and I confessed that I had no idea. I said the menu was so large, with so many selections, that I couldn’t make up my mind.

I put the issue in his lap. What were his recommendations for a first-timer? He mentioned the eggs, to which I said no. He shook his head over the hamburgers only because he doesn’t eat hamburgers. He pointed out a few salads; one in particular was called the Tropical Salad that he thought was very good and very popular. I read the description: spinach, mango, papaya and grapefruit, tossed with orange honey mustard grilled chicken. The final coup de gras: roasted sunflower seeds.

For a brief moment I considered it, but it sounded so sickly sweet — and the grapefruit was really off-putting — I turned it down flat. I went straight to the sandwich selections to look for the simplest offering possible, thinking I want to get this done.

The least offensive seemed like the Croque-Madame or Monsieur, on a baguette. The, Madame, which I chose, was grilled chicken, tomatoes and Swiss cheese.

I believe the classic croquet-Monsieur (or Madame -- oh it’s all too confusing) is traditionally ham and Swiss put between two slices of bread, coated in a batter and sautéed in butter, something like French toast.

In a matter of moments it arrived, as though it had sped through a radar range. Spread across a foot-long baguette were strips of chicken, sun-starved tomato slices, and slabs of barely melted Swiss cheese. With it came a pile of fries.

Mr. or Mrs., this was no croque. It was like a ham and cheese sandwich with a chicken substitute. Enormous, too. I picked at the chicken, which was pretty tasty, twirled the cheese around my fork and poked at a few of the fries, feeling fatter and fatter by the moment.

What more can I say? I have no more expectations.

I never thought that I’d become one of those organic-food bores, shopping in quirky health-food stores rife with incense and patchouli, where it’s easier to buy a pound of mung beans than Hellmann’s mayonnaise. And if I feel out of place on foot wearing Prada shoes amidst a world of Birkenstocks, I’m not about to change that either -- just to blend in with the macrobiotic crowd shuffling down the aisles.

The truth is I haven’t joined the nimble ranks of health-food fanciers per se. I’m not mesmerized by such empty words as unprocessed, organic and natural that sparkle before my eyes like flickering filters against disease and ill health. Instead, my goal is to use the pure, untarnished elements of organic foods as core ingredients in home cooking. That is where I can control what goes into the pot. What comes out of it is essentially flavor.

I’ve always, for lack of a better phrase, “cooked from scratch.” If my chicken stock used to simmer with assembly-line birds and plastic wrapped vegetables, it now bubbles with organic ingredients only.

Is it tastier? I think so. Is it healthier? I think it is. I assume it’s no less healthy.

I’ve therefore become the kind of shopper who asks where the beef comes from and how it’s been raised. The same goes for dairy products and eggs, vegetables and meats, poultry and grains.

I can’t change totally though. I still use processed sugar in baking. Nothing else can really replace it. I try to eat stone-ground whole wheat bread over bread made with processed white flour. I still turn to white flour in baking, but at least it comes from specialty producers, like Hodgson Mills unbleached flour, readily available in supermarkets and health food stores.

For dairy products, I favor unpasteurized milk, cream and butter. Some food scientists believe that these don’t pose the same risks from their high-fat content because they are unprocessed.

It’s all a fairly big decision to do this. It’s certainly more time-consuming and more expensive, but I think the results are worth it. When I make, for example, cornbread or biscuits using Springbrook or Smiling Hill Farms naturally fermented buttermilk, the difference is remarkable.

Yet, who knows for certain?

Years ago, I was one of the editors on the famous low-fat diet regime devised by Nathan Pritikin, author of the Pritikin Diet. It basically advocated limiting fats in your diet to a bare minimum to ward off heart disease. Yet when Pritikin died at a relatively young age of 69 -- indeed too young for a health guru -- it didn’t bode well for his teachings, which many thought were extreme anyway. He died of a long-standing battle with leukemia. Skeptics probably asked, well shouldn’t his diet have helped prevent leukemia too?

A while ago I was having dinner with friends at their home. The wife and husband are great cooks, serving simple and delicious food. Before dinner, I was rambling on about the miraculous natural lamb that I get from a nearby farm. They didn’t comment much about my food discovery.

Wouldn’t you know, they served rack of lamb that evening? I was very impressed with the meat. It was perfect and tender, with wonderful flavor.

I said, "This lamb is sensational. Where did you get it?" thinking they knew a better source than mine.

"Hannaford’s, of course," she said, as my face turned bright red.

There’s always someone out there ready with a new miracle diet, as though one day the secret of immortality will be found hiding under a rock.

The newest food craze is the raw and living foods diet. Raw and living foods are defined as all fruits, vegetables, sprouts, nuts, seeds, grains and sea vegetables. Its basic premise involves safeguarding the natural enzymes found in foods by not cooking them. Enzymes aid in proper digestion, and cooking temperatures over 116 degrees fahrenheit destroys them. Under a no-cooking protocol, all the trace elements are able to reach our body, supplying oxygen to the cells, which then become unsatisfactory breeding grounds for such diseases as cancer to develop.

It’s all the craze in southern California, where supposedly actress Demi Moore pays a raw foods chef $1,000 per day not to cook her food.

To me, it conjures up the image that we must lay supine in a petrified forest, mouths open, and catch the falling fruits from the tree.

I suppose there is a bit of sense to all this. If we live to eat, we might as well do it with well-tempered pleasure and good, healthy habits.

Over the years I have maintained a diet that seems to work for me. It keeps my weight steady and certain health concerns in check.

I loosely follow a Mediterranean diet. It’s low in processed foods, animal fats and relies more on fruits, grains, vegetables and moderate amounts of fish, meat and poultry. Olive oil is the mainstay over butter, and grains and whole grain pastas virtually replace white potatoes. (When is the last time you had a baked potato in an Italian restaurant?)

I also favor foods that have high-fiber content. One example would be to eat sweet potatoes instead of giving in to the starchy white potato. It doesn’t mean I won’t occasionally devour an airy puree of Yukon golds.

I hardly position myself as an expert on all this. Rather, I’ve learned the basics of good eating and the virtues of whole foods. I’m a cook first and a very distant nutritionist second. Eating out as often as I do, it’s hard to adhere to such a regimen. But good restaurants are ever mindful of the quality of their ingredients. Increasingly you see on restaurant menus lists of their purveyors, most of whom are organic providers.

Fortunately Maine has a wealth of outlets from which to buy natural and organic foods. In the summer and fall months, the variety and quality of organic foodstuffs sold at farms stands around the state is astounding. I sorely miss them at this time of year.

Here is my short winter shopping list of area purveyors that I go to now.

Dairy & Vegetables

Royal River Foods, Route 1, Freeport. 865-0046. Good for organic vegetables, poultry products, flour, grains and unpasteurized milk (White Orchard Farms), unpasteurized heavy cream (Post Family Farm), unpasteurized butter (Caldwell Farms). They also sell the Post Farm’s delicious organic ice cream which is sweetened with either raw, organic sugar or honey.

The Whole Grocer, Marginal Way, Portland. 774-7711. Good for organic vegetables, poultry products, flour and grains, unpasteurized dairy products, with a similar product list as Royal River. Try the light cream from White Orchard Farms. It’s the only light cream that will whip. Because it’s made by hand, the fat content varies, so not all bottles will have "whipping" abilities.

Farm Stores

Springbroook Farm Dairy Store, Greely Road, Cumberland Center. 829-5977. Good for dairy (pasteurized) products, including their terrific naturally fermented buttermilk. Their own beef, and pork; poultry products are from Mainely Chicken. The pork is particularly good. High in old-fashioned flavor. The eggs come from hatcheries right at their farm. In the summer watch for them at the Cumberland Farmer’s Market for vegetables and other products.

Sunrise Acres Farms, Winn Road, Cumberland Center. 829-5594. Wonderful naturally raised lamb and chicken from their Winn Road farm. In the summer watch for them at the Cumberland Farmer’s Market for their vegetables, meats and poultry.

Smiling Hill Farms, Route 22, Westbrook, 775-4818. Good for pasteurized dairy products, cheese and ice cream

Butcher Shops

Forbes Meat Market, The Portland Public Market, Portland. 228-2044 They carry a large selection of naturally raised beef, lamb, pork, poultry, venison and game girds. Some are from local farms.

Curtis Custom Meats, Route 90, Warren. 273-2574. This is the quintessential old-fashioned butcher shop. Located on the Route 90 bypass between Warren and Rockport, the shop is located on a hill overlooking fields and farmland. A big sign on the road shows you where they are. Go there for natural cuts of beef, lamb and pork products. Particularly good is their house-brined (corned beef) brisket, the perfect ingredient for a New England Boiled Dinner. The Portland Greengrocer on Commercial Street in Portland carries some of their meats.

When restaurants falter, they’re not easily forgiven, like the wayward suitor who begs for a second chance. We took such a chance on Cinque Terre last week, with some friends in tow whose unhappy experiences when it first opened kept them from returning.

It’s true. For a short period in its early days, the restaurant had quickly declined in both service and food quality, not a good thing for an establishment also known for its high pretensions and high prices.

But the seeds had already been planted for this dining spot to grow into what it is today. And in the last year I’ve enjoyed many dinners there under the new regime. In fact, there’s no other restaurant in the Portland area that serves such refined northern Italian cuisine as Cinque Terre. I assured my friends, still skeptical, that they wouldn’t be disappointed.

We arrived at 7:30 and were shown to our table immediately. Only six other diners were at tables. I was concerned to see so cheerless a room, but our waiter said that this time of year is often quiet.

Time, however, proved him wrong. By 8 pm, the downstairs room was nearly packed with an attractive local crowd who seemed to drift in from the cold on cue to impart a convivial mood to a somber stage.

Part of the makeover last year included a modest redesign of the interior. The room itself is inherently attractive, with high ceilings, brick walls, and the great big steel-cased window overlooking Wharf Street. But a local design firm was hired to redo the bar area. The resulting design offsets the open kitchen with a dramatically installed copper canopy between the two spaces. The addition of banquette seating, with extravagant striped fabric, lends a playful feeling seldom found in other dining rooms around town.

I hadn’t been to Cinque Terre in several months and I was thrilled by the menu, with choices that were not just new, but novel. We studied it for a long while until we ordered our first and second courses. Unfortunately, as a group, we all gravitated to the same selections. I was disappointed in not being able to graze amongst a greater variety of dishes.

The tally wound up that two of us had both ordered the carpaccio starter and two had the sformatino. For second courses, two of us ordered the grilled venison and the other half settled on the same pasta dish. How boring. I suggested that perhaps we should try other dishes. But everyone seemed quite content and I left well enough alone.

I’ve had the carpaccio here many times and always found it sliced too thickly for my tastes. That night, it was paper thin and delicious.

My first course, sformatino, was highly unusual-- a splendidly conceived dish with complex taste and texture. Sformatino means pie in Italian cooking, and can be most anything. Here, it was a flan of winter squash, encased in the most delicate kind of crust and served with a remarkable celery sauce. Beyond its high flavors, it was presented in a palette of pastels: the muted orange-yellow of the squash was set off by a celadon-tinged celery sauce.

It was one of the most memorable dishes I’ve had in a long time, and I hope it stays on the menu so I can have it again and again.

My entrée was grilled venison, a starkly welcoming contrast to the first course. I love venison for its leanness and gamey flavors. It was simply grilled, served on a bed of farro, an excellent and tasty grain that’s a mainstay of Tuscan cooking, and topped with a cold salad of shredded red beets. The beets were the kicker in this dish. Highly flavored, deeply red and the fact that it was served cold to grace such a robust alliance created an unusual contrast that worked. I will remember the beets so prepared and include it in my home menus more often.

The other main course at our table was pappardelle. This was no ordinary pasta dish of flat, wide noodles but rather a union of white truffles and richly braised duck. If ever there was a luxurious method to the madness of truffles and duck, this was it personified. The duck imparted a strong, clean gamey taste to the dish, while the woodsy perfume of white truffle added a pungent, heady aroma, like a splash of earth.

We each had one glass of wine, no dessert and still managed to ring up a hefty three-figure tab. But for such stylish, urbane dining, and the chance to reacquaint friends with one of Portland’s finest restaurants, the expense seemed justified.

While poking around the back roads of Cumberland Center, along Route 9, heading into North Yarmouth on Route 115, I saw a big sign announcing Stone’s Grove restaurant. Under the name was the proverbial "home cooking," a declaration so written in the wind that it doesn’t begin to describe this classic coffee shop, the real deal for home cooking.

As a child growing up in New York, I remember these corner coffee shops so well because they were everywhere -- in every upper-, middle- or lower-class neighborhood. It’s where you went for a cheeseburger deluxe, a grilled-cheese sandwich, or meatloaf with gravy and mashed potatoes. The meals were washed down with Coca Colas, egg creams or malteds served in tall, bulbous glasses. Desserts ran the gamut: willowy cubes of green or red Jell-o, nasty chocolate layer cake, butter pecan ice cream or that special treat, a hot fudge sundae.

The kitchens were not manned by aspiring chefs. Instead it was the kingdom of the short-order cook — those bulky, sweaty, hirsute men who plied the declaration of their art with lightning speed.

Stone’s is just such the place. The ambiance (décor would be too strong a word) is classic Formica counter and stools, complemented by rows of leatherette booths, all of which is starkly lighted by the gray glare of overhead fluorescents.

The first thing to get used to about Stones is its hours of operation. From Tuesday to Friday, the restaurant is open from 6 am to 1:30 pm. I’ve gotten there several minutes after the closing hour, only to find a locked door, even though the restaurant was still full with diners. On Saturday, it closes at 11 am. I wonder why they even bother to open at all, but apparently there’s a steady breakfast following.

On Sunday, the unofficial brunch menu is over by noon. The first time I went for brunch, I sampled the pumpkin pancakes: enormous orange-ochre colored rounds that looked heavy but were as light as clouds. The waiter asked if I wanted hash browns with the pancakes. I thought this was overkill but, as it turned out, they were worth it — beautifully crispy and delicious.

The restaurant serves dinner twice a month, on each second and fourth Saturday. The last call is at 7 pm.

Obviously, Stone’s is a delightfully idiosyncratic establishment. It's family run, with a loyal following who go day after day for home-style coffee shop fare in its purest form.

I can’t say I’ve sampled the entire menu, but I’ve been there enough times to have my favorites.

The chicken salad is delicious and wholesome, so good in fact it’s worth mentioning for its unique preparation. I’ve tried to figure how it’s made, and I’m guessing that it’s a finely ground mixture of chicken, onions, celery and spices. It’s not chunky, but more like a spread. It’s generally served on honey whole wheat or their grilled bread, which is wonderful. I’ll often have it as their special of the day: a cup of soup and half a sandwich.

Soups are great here -- rich, hearty and homespun. The fish chowder has big chunks of haddock, potatoes and onions in a delicious milk/cream-based broth. The onion soup is a dark, earthy-brown broth heaped with onions and a generous melted Swiss topping.

The American chop suey seems to be really a popular special. One time when I was there, it seemed like every diner in the restaurant had ordered it. It’s basically curly noodles and meat sauce, served with their grilled garlic bread.

Another time I had the super crusty chicken-fried steak served with gravy and perfect cubes of home fries accompanied by Stone’s homemade biscuits that the cook puts on the grill to toast.

My favorite special is the stuffed meat loaf. Big, thick slices of the loaf are stuffed with mushrooms; the loaf itself has wonderful flavor. It’s generally served with mashed potatoes and a flaky grilled biscuit.

When I arrived there the other day, I had just missed getting the last order of the roast pork special, the aroma of which seemed to fill the entire room. I managed to order a side of the cabbage casserole that came with it. This was a really hearty braise of slow-cooked cabbage that was sweet and aromatic.

Desserts are what you’d expect here: classic American farmhouse confections. I’ve had the pecan pie, the cherry berry cobbler, the Boston cream pie, the pumpkin cake with cream cheese frosting — all with that inimitable homespun taste and texture. For dieters, there’s always angel food cake or Jell-O.

One of these days I’ll make it out there for dinner after I lose a few pounds from one too many enjoyable lunches at Stone’s.

I've always liked Katahdin because the décor remains a dusty stronghold of funk and retro that reminds this aging baby boomer of a nostalgic youth spent in downtown New York in the 1970s.

If only everything on the menu, except the fabulous apple pie, wasn’t smothered in a fruit- based reduction, emulsion or glaze, Katahdin would be the ideal neighborhood dining spot.

I’m not sure I understand the chef’s love affair with these sauces. Is it some sort of reverence for Caribbean fare? Or is it derived from the fruit craze of California cuisine from the seventies?

Nevertheless it’s a defining style indeed, the chef’s frolicking romp through lighthearted fare that’s very personal and very unique, found in no other restaurant in Portland.

I remember eating here several years ago for the first time, grazing over a menu that presented simpler choices, including a nightly Blue Plate Special. We dipped into the bread basket to devour buttermilk biscuits and cornbread instead of the now-ubiquitous focacia and EVO (extra virgin olive oil) presented last night.

For a moment I thought I was California dreaming when our waitress announced herself, in a thankless monologue: “Hello, my name is Agnes, and I’ll be your server tonight.” Oh, give me a break. How do you do, we’re not in Kansas anymore?

Still, I have a sweet tooth, which allows me to enjoy a meal here well enough.

I started off with the Lolla Rosa Salad, which is based on a red-leaf California lettuce, the foundation on which this salad is built. The portion is so big it should arrive on a rolling cart. It’s prepared with an anchovy dressing, awash with crumbled blue cheese, croutons and lemon juice. An acquired taste? Unctious perhaps? I’m still uncertain whether the pungent combination works. My dinner companion also ordered the salad and thought it was novel and delicious.

I had a difficult time choosing an entrée. Just about everything on the menu seemed to have the sweet heebie-jeebies. I narrowed it down to a choice of either the vanilla-brined pork loin (which in retrospect sounds really scary) or the scallops in an apricot-lobster glaze.

I chose the scallops. The dish was beautifully presented—a circle of six scallops nestled in a potato puree, suffused in a glistening apricot pool, with only kindred traces of lobster thrashing quietly. Miraculously the main ingredient survived unscathed. Then again, the flavors were appropriate to, if not reminiscent of, another 1970s phenomenon now charmingly known as nouvelle cuisine.

I have to admit that I wasn’t in the mood for this sort of food. We had been to a cocktail party earlier in the evening hosted by Landmarks and had planned to go to the Cumberland Club for dinner. At the last moment, we changed our minds, opting for the more casual ambience of Katahdin next door. If ever there was a divergence of choice, this was contrast personified.

My companion had the grilled salmon in a miso glaze, served over a bed of Japanese steamed rice. It was pronounced first rate and perfectly done.

The chef’s sweet tooth works, however, in the desserts.

Ah, the apple pie. This was one of the best apple pies I’ve had in a restaurant. The lattice top had a crumbly sugary veneer, and I’m fairly certain the dough was classic butter short crust. The apples were well spiced and served a la mode with a lavish house-made vanilla ice cream.

My friend ordered an orange flan -- a preparation of such resounding gossamer lightness it practically quivered on the plate.

Including several cocktails each, our tab was an even hundred dollars for two. Going back to our car on Park Street, we bumped into a friend walking her dogs, a pair of glamorous standard poodles named after two famous movie stars. The three of us had a wonderful chat while the poodles remained graciously in repose, a fitting end to a spirited evening out.

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