What makes a restaurant great? A brilliant chef? Extraordinary food? A spectacular setting? Flawless service?

Can an unforgettable experience encompass all of the above in one sitting or is that the fantasy of a dreamer, who can overlook minor contingencies that compromise perfection?

I’m almost prepared to say that Arrows, Ogunquit, Maine’s, renowned bastion of haute cuisine, meets these requirements of excellence.

Last night, on a whim, we went to Arrows for dinner. I thought it was high time I got out of dodge for culinary diversion. I’ve read about the restaurant for years, as a magical kingdom of gastronomic greatness, nestled in the unassuming outskirts of this seaside town.

Very few restaurants in Maine, or in New England for that matter, have received such national attention. I’m always leery of those that do, often encountering less than more.

In all the years that I’ve been visiting and now living in Maine I’ve yet to go to our state’s most revered restaurant, Arrows, in Ogunquit. I tried once last year with a reservation made weeks in advance. As it turned I cancelled because plans had changed.

What immediately turned me off to the restaurant was their requirement of requesting a credit card deposit to secure a table. Obviously this practice is their insurance against no-shows.

Still, in this day and age, to those of us who are well used to paying $150 for two in well regarded eateries, this practice seems anachronistic at best. It’s almost as if establishments such as Arrows don’t expect you to know which fork to use, and anticipate their dining public to harbor the bad manners not to cancel a reservation if necessary.

Still I‘ve wanted to know what all the fuss is about.

Ultimately I’m a sucker for a good meal no matter the effort or the expense. And I am going there tonight.

I went to the Arrows website to look at the menu. I saw that the restaurant lives up to its reputation as one of the most expensive establishments in New England. First courses are in the $15 range and entrees belong to the $40 bracket.

I’ve dusted off my no-limit credit card and hope to put it to good use this evening. I’ll report back soon.