I suppose we should be grateful that Portland restaurants turn a blind eye to the notion of dress codes. In New York, for example, it was reported recently that Nick Nolte walked into the inimitable Nobu wearing sweat pants and slippers; and that George Clooney was reprimanded for not wearing a tie when he stopped into the 21 Club for lunch and forced to put one on.

If we cow tow to fashion at all here it’s often weather and lifestyle related, with stints at the Mall or slogging through snow banks.

If I have one fashion complaint ( not confined to Portland) it concerns people—men and women—who enter a fine restaurant wearing a baseball cap as though it were a skull replacement. Unless worn to hide a medical condition, it doesn’t belong in public rooms where ambiance might suggest otherwise. Then again maybe I’m just a curmudgeon.

Or maybe I eat out too often and get touchy about what I see sometimes.

Tonight I’m planning to stay in. We had friends in for dinner last night. It took the entire day to prepare the meal, and I’m tired. The thought of messing up the kitchen again is not appealing, so tonight’s meal will be simple. The leftover leg of lamb that I served is going to be made into a hash: quick, hearty and delicious.

It was an eerie feeling arriving at a nearly deserted Two Lights Lobster Shack for lunch the other day. Parking was a cinch. No waiting on line to place my order and the few diners there—mostly Out of Towner’s, judging from the license plates—were eating inside. It was too damp and raw to enjoy the view from those outdoor picnic tables. Of course, we are nearing the end of October, and it’s no surprise to find the Lobster Shack in repose and readying to close by the 23rd.

I thoroughly enjoyed my last lobster-joint lunch until next season with a very decent cup of clam chowder and a crab roll.

Just as well that we live in a climate of four distinct seasons because in terms of food and its enjoyment thereof, the change in weather brings on variety.

I’ve been spending more time than usual preparing foodstuffs for winter. I’m not sure why, as though I were expecting a food shortage

If good restaurants can gain legendary status, just think of what happens when the legend falters? An off night at a great restaurant is more heartfelt than one at a lackluster joint.

That was my reaction last night at Casa Novello, that locally renowned outpost of Italian-American fare in Westbrook.

Italian-American cooking is a cuisine unto itself. Certainly it has no place in true Italian kitchens. The rich red sauce, marinara and other kickshaws of cuisine that is right at home in these kitchens is in my mind wonderful comfort food with Italian-inspired spices and sentiment.

Casa Novello has always presented this kind of food extremely well. I wouldn’t say that everything there is fabulous. But if you stick to the basics—lasagna, pasta dishes or baked Parmesan specialties—you’ll get a good meal indeed.

Five-Fifty Five Congress has defied the odds of location.

Along the pluck of Congress Street, where it seems like the grim reaper is a full time resident, it’s all the more surprising that this fine dining establishment has managed to flourish along such an arcane byway.

Oh, for sure, signs of gentrification are gyrating along the avenue like pompous mannequins amidst the rubble. Soon enough the lure of luxury condos will replace these seedy predecessors. One of these days Congress Street might even become a proud thoroughfare.

But until then it’s a sundry tempest offering a narrow alley of dining options. There’s Norm’s, which couldn’t be finer for what it is. Add to that a slew of ethnic operations, some good, some highly questionable.

And then there’s the surefire Five Fifty Five.

Forgive me for writing about apples again. But we’re in the prime time of the Maine apple season. So it behooves us all to use this wonderful fruit at its seasonal best as often as we can while Maine apples are literally apple-orchard fresh. Fairly soon our only choice will be the grim realty of store-bought varieties.

It was interesting to read in today’s food section about the award winning apple pie at the Cumberland Fair. The recipe looks very good and I will try it.

I love apple pie and any new twist or suggestion to make it even more delicious than possible is something that I’d like to know about.

Ultimately I generally prefer my own version which has changed little since I’ve been making apple pies.

I don’t have any particular secret to offer in what I think a good apple pie is. But I do have certain precepts that I always follow.

I prefer an all butter crust (unsalted butter only). If it’s made properly it’s just as flaky as those that have some shortening mixed in. I prefer the all-butter flavor. Sometimes I’ll use European-style butter, which is richer. Otherwise Cabot’s unsalted is my favorite store bought butter.