The moment we walked into MC Perkins Cove, I sensed we would be in good hands. If only to revel in the stunning décor, the unbeatable views of ocean and rocks, as though the quintessence of a Charles Waterbury seascape had come to life.

In case you don’t know, this new establishment is the country cousin of Arrows in Ogunquit-- nestled in Perkins Cove and housed on the site of the former Hurricane Restaurant. Owners/chefs Mark Gaier and Clark Fraser have created one of the most dazzling waterfront jewels and may lend a hand to gentrify Ogunquit.

Everything from the interior finishes of the first and second floor dining rooms, the copper topped tables, the buttery soft molded chairs that look like leather but are not, to the flatware, glasses and dishes, all with casual restraint and style—nothing off-putting or stiff—adds up to a thrilling dining experience.

Arrows epitomizes luxurious dining as though its reigning surcharges were standard fare. Here you get the same sense of quality and fine cuisine in a more casual context with just the right amount of flourish.

Before Caiola’s Restaurant opened last week—quietly, without fanfare-- I had heard that it was going to be serving Mediterranean style fare. I thought, what, yet another restaurant mating fish with cous cous, a world of legumes and grains sending mashed potatoes to the antediluvian heap?

Not that I have anything against the notion of twisting the Ligurian pepper pot into an American rendition of fish stew. After all Mediterranean cooking is far healthier for us. No butter, lots of olive oil, grains, etcetera, etcetera.

Caiola’s (remember it’s “a” before “i” and don’t forget the “o” when you’re dialing up Miss Information for the number) is the blessed brainchild of Abby Harmon, the former head chef at Street & Co., and her partner Lisa Viccaro. It’s located on Pine Street, next door to Aurora Foods. And there’s parking too. For the record the number is 772-1110
.
But as far as the instant mischief of gossip goes, Caiola’s is not a concoction of Mediterranean goodies.

We went there last night, barely able to get through the front door because this restaurant seems to have literally become an overnight sensation, approaching SRO status--not a bad thing when you’re starting a new venture.

If I were airlifted to Des Moines, Iowa, to dissert on that city’s culinary heritage and agricultural health and history (of which I knew nothing) I would embark on steady research and objectivity often called truth in reporting.

Ah, but the new journalism is all about point of view these days as though the war in Iraq were being covered by a theatre critic, and the lowly occupation of food reporting was mere fiction.

The trouble is we’re supposed to believe what we read in print.

Such was my reaction after contemplating the article “Two Portlands” in last week’s New York Times Sunday Magazine called “T, ” or otherwise known as The New York Times Style Magazine. The article was meant to compare two disparate coasts with contrasting cities of the same name that offer a rich revelation of gastronomic clarities.

In other words, you can eat real well in Portland, Oregon, or Portland, Maine

Who knew?

As I read on I then learned that I live in a “blue collar coastal town,” whose waterfront shops (Commercial Street) have “a Disney feel.” Where are all the rides?