If you think it’s easy to write about restaurants on a constant basis, let me quash that notion right here and now. After so many dining experiences in so many years every first course is a purgatory of reiterations.

Every main course becomes a bilious chore. How many ways are there to sniff and tell about duck confit or rack of lamb?

The critic runs to a new restaurant as though to leave behind a half century of memories. Finally there’s something new to write about. I suppose it’s critical mass. For me it’s hardly a full time job. In fact it’s not a job at all but something I like to do. I love food, I understand it and I’m an avid cook myself.